Stick tang pointers...

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Feb 1, 2000
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I've been smitten with Scandinavian style knives. I hope to forge out a few 1084 stick tang blades this weekend if the weather is o.k. It's supposed to storm like the dickens though, so I might end up doing some stock removal blades instead. I've never done a stick tang knife, I'd appreciate any pointers or tips if you have any. I definitely want to try and have at least two or three blades made this weekend so that I can heat treat a few other knives of 1084 I have ready all at the same time.
 
There are several different ways to set in a tang,The most common is to use the edge of the anvil and the cross peen of the hammer,Just strick the hot steel at a angle over the edge of the anvil with the cross peen and then turn the steel over and do it again to make the sides even then just draw and tapper out the tang.
I use a fullering tool myself,These are easy to make by taking about 2 fet of round rod,heating the center and hammering about 6 inches flat,then heat and bend in half,this will be kind of like salad tongs at this point.Let them cool after normalizing a couple of times.Now just heat the blde and put it between the two rods and set one rod on the anvil and hit the top rod with the hammer a couple of times.Then draw and tapper out your tang being careful not to hit the corners of the blade where the fullerig tool made it's indentations.
Hope this helps.
Bruce
 
L6: Nice picture !
I never made Stick tang, but I thing to do one soon.
Drilling holes for the pin in the handle seem to be rather
difficult... Do I can drill my hole in the handel AND in the tang in
the same time ? (if my stick tang are not hardened)
That would be easier!

Alain M-D
 
Alain,I drill 99% of all my pins through after they are epoxied on,that way I know everything is tight and fitted properly.You might want to make a mark on the handle as to be a referance of where the tang is setting inide the handle so as not to miss it.When I first started I tried doing it the other way and would always mes up and end up with a poor fit at the guard,So I started doing it this way and just never tried the other way again..
Just my way of doing things.
Bruce
 
It's darn near impossible to give advice after Bruce covers the subject. Just not much left to say. I do a lot of Scandinavian knives. I really like them and it sneaks into the design no matter what I'm making.

The only thing else I can add is with some designs, you will have a wood handle and an antler crown of some sort. The best way I've found to secure them together is drill the center of the crown and epoxy the handle to the crown. Slide the two over the tang and peen the edge to hold it in place. This works better for me than threading the tang.
To get to the point, leave the stick a little long and more rounded for that kind of handle.
 
Some times you may not want the pin to show.
so doing a hidden stick tang you can still drill
the tang put a short pin in to fit the hole in the
handle and barb the tang, then Dremel ridges
inside the hole so the epoxy will grip better,
_you'll have to destroy the handle to get it off,
just my 2 cents
 
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