Sticky lock bars

Joined
Jan 15, 2017
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Could someone explain the issue about sticky lock bars? While not a fan of liner locks, I do own a few. The only problem I've had with them was when the liner lock on my Benchmade Mini-AFCK failed, but that's another story.

So what do I need to know about sticky locks? I recently purchased another Benchmade, the 757 Vicar, which is a liner lock with titanium liners. I've read other posts here talking about titanium having problems such as lock stick and galling, and see where the solution seems to be either steel inserts or carbidizing. What exactly is the problem with titanium liner locks, and do I need to be concerned about it?

Any input from those with experience would certainly be appreciated.
 
my major concern with titanium frame lock stick is that, sometimes instead of "breaking in", it gets majorly worse.

i've had this happen to one knife (only one of out of many), where it was fine when you flipped it open and close (locking up at about 40%), but if you squeezed it hard enough, the lock up would go way late at 60% and get stuck. this got gradually worse. logically, it makes sense that such defect is possible, since titanium is softer than steel and if the area that makes contact with the blade gets distorted, you may be screwed.

that being said, my favorite mechanical configuration for flippers is titanium frame lock (with lock bar insert), and every other titanium frame like i've owned did not have any major problems. if you check reviews of specific knives, you can generally find out whether that model is prone to lock stick issues
 
It's rare to see today on any quality frame lock as most companies are using steel inserts.
I have a few knives with Ti lock bars w/o inserts and have had no problems at all.
You just do NOT want any lubricant to get on a Ti lock face!! You'll need a pry bar to unlock!

In regards to the 757, I haven't heard anyone complain about any stick.
Great knife and I hope you enjoy it!
Joe
 
It's rare to see today on any quality frame lock as most companies are using steel inserts.
I have a few knives with Ti lock bars w/o inserts and have had no problems at all.
You just do NOT want any lubricant to get on a Ti lock face!! You'll need a pry bar to unlock!

In regards to the 757, I haven't heard anyone complain about any stick.
Great knife and I hope you enjoy it!
Joe

yup, one of my favorite knives (if not current favorite) is a ti lock bar without an insert, the spyderco slysz bowie. Although i have no lock stick or gritty release problems, in the back of my mind, it still irrationally feels like a design flaw....
 
Yup! I have a 3 year old Southard that has been flipped a gabillion times and it an absolute pleasure!
Also have a couple Benchmades that are smoother than snot......no inserts.
The only time I felt any kind of stick it was my fault......lube on the lock face. That was fun!!
Joe

yup, one of my favorite knives (if not current favorite) is a ti lock bar without an insert, the spyderco slysz bowie. Although i have no lock stick or gritty release problems, in the back of my mind, it still irrationally feels like a design flaw....
 
The worst lock stick i ever had was on a large Sebenza 21, not a single trick in the book would fix it. Being in Australia sending it in to the crk shop is more hassle than it's worth, sold it off.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Doesn't seem like I have too much to worry about, for now at least. But another concern pops up-, why would lubricants on the titanium lock bar have any impact, as implied here and in other threads? Do lubes and titanium react with each other, or what?

BTW- for those who saw the total eclipse, pretty awesome, no?:cool:
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Doesn't seem like I have too much to worry about, for now at least. But another concern pops up-, why would lubricants on the titanium lock bar have any impact, as implied here and in other threads? Do lubes and titanium react with each other, or what?

BTW- for those who saw the total eclipse, pretty awesome, no?:cool:

The lube allows the lock-bar to travel further along the ramp of the tang, particularly under pressure. At that point there's so much tension at the interface that the knife will unlock only with great force or prying. If you do get some lube in there--and I have when being sloppy when lubing pivots--just keep wiping the pivot area and interface with alcohol and eventually the problem will abate.

If you do get a bit of lock stick in a knife, putting a little graphite (pencil lead) on the tang will ease it, but don't try this if you already errantly have some lube there--it'll just compound your problem. One's best course of action with a sticky lock (or any other issue) on a quality knife is patience--it will eventually break in.
 
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