Stiff Native (Real Knife Content!)

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Danelle O'Shea

Joined
Mar 22, 2001
Messages
2,420
First, a preface. *I* am not asking this question. You knew there was something wrong when you saw actual knife content with my name attached, right?

Ok, so my buddy Mark is here...(Yes right here, be nice) and he has a stiff Native. Its a SS Native, probably about 2 years old.

(Im quoting him here)
"The problem seems to be , there is too much drag when opening the knife. The drag comes from the pressure applied by the lock release mechanism on the cam on the back edge of the blade. It would seem to be that the spring that is providing pressure to the lock release mechanism is too strong. Is there a way to adjust the pressure applied by this spring? The only idea I've come up with is to leave the knife half open, so that the spring is compressed by the cam position - the hope is that this will relax the spring. "

Believe me, I know the difficulties working on a Native, with all those damn rivets.

Suggestions?

We're gonna go out for a bit (beer!) and come back and see what all you Einsteins have to say. Make it good. No Danelle quips, rumors or stories. And in the name of all that is holy, no pictures.

Danny
 
Maybe the problem isn't with the knife, but rather with Mark's thumb? Perhaps he needs to build-up his thumb muscles?.:D.

Actually, it IS that spring-pressure that also holds the blade closed, so that it won't open while in the pocket, so I wouldn't feel too bad about a strong spring.
 
De-grease the knife with Isopropyl Alcohol (PGA is better, but most people don't keep it around the house) put a couple drops of Slick/50 spray lubricant on the pivot, give it a little time to penetrate, and see what happens.

(Please don't use WD-40!)
 
Dann, I can vouch for his thumbs. Nuff said.

Ken - thanks. But just fmi, why no WD-40?

He says it's definately not the pivot that is the problem. It's the friction from the lock. Does that make sense?

If you hold the lock off the blade, the blade swings *very* freely.
 
Hrmm, well I know what yer talking about, Its something I feel on alll my lockback type folders. I'd say that the folder just needs to be cleaned out well, put a drop of good lube like break free, or whatever, and just cycle the action whenever the oportunity presents itself (watching tv, eating dinner... etc) The problem usually is caused by the tang of the blade (where it touches the lock) not being totally smooth. My Endura is still a hair rough right near the full open position, and you can see tiny grinder marks right there that havent been polished out though use.
 
WD-40 is not suitable for use on things like the pivot area of a knife.
The reason why, is because the "carrier" portion of WD_40 evaporates rather quickly, and what is left behind has a tendency to build-up and create a sort of gum on the surface you wished to lubricate.
 
Ken,
while on the subject. Can mineral spirits be used to degrease a knife if it is NOT heavily greased to begin with? For example, right out of the box, will a mineral spirit bath work to make the knife virgin for proper lubing? Also, is not what is being described very similar to the Timberline Discovery and the Blade "rubbing" on the liner during opening?
Thanks......wolf
 
Same thing happened to my Delica after being in the pocket for a while. What I do - Clean it out with the high-pressure red straw of the WD-40, but make sure you're holding the lock button down (open)when you do it to flush out and de-gunk. Then get in there with a dishwashing liquid and water solution to de-grease. Rinse well, Shake dry, then let air in the open position, or better blow it dry on 'cool'. When completely dry, work the action with a good lube (NOT the WD-40!). I use White Lightning, lots of folks use Tuff-Glide.
 
Stiff Native wanna play BIG CHIEF with naked pale faced WOMAN!!!

OK, OK, My Spyderco Police had a drag in it when I first got it, but I used Hoppes lubricant, and an air hose to blow it out. I think it just had some trash or grit in it. It could have been a bur, I don't know. But after lubing it up, and working it several times it was a lot smoother. That didn't sound right, did it? Gotta go!
 
Wolfman,
I don't know about Mineral Spirits, I've never used them for anything but uhm... "regulating" horses, if you know what I mean... :eek:

Alcohol works great.
What I do is go to the Drugstore, buy the large bottles, and put a spray attachment on top of one of them.
It's cheap, it's easy to use, no muss no fuss.

However for serious de-greasing, as when refinishing a firearm, or bluing small parts, I do a second de-greasing with PGA.
(Pure Grain Alcohol.)
This can be bought at about any liquour store, just ask for "generic Everclear." Anything 180 proof or higher will strip grease and leave a clean/uncontaminated surface when you're done.
(more than you ever wanted to know about de-greasing)
:rolleyes:

PS...
If you've got kids, obviously take precautions so they can't get into the PGA!!!
 
Thanks cliff. I only drink PGA, so I always have a stock with my beefaroni. I know that sentry says to just "re-activate" their tuff-cloth by using Mineral spirits. I used to use mineral spirts to clean the suppressor on a certain firearm I own ( NOPE, ME??, no I do NOT own it...DUH). I remember having a discussion with Frank Mrozek of Sentry concerning the degreasing nature of mineral spirits and how it ate off cosmolean very efficently but gently, unlike alcohol which Frank felt was harmful to the finish of any steel. I ask You, as I have followed your EVERY written word on the topic, as well as L6, and a few others and just wondered EXACTLY what/how Mineral spirits have to do with activating a lubricant while also reportedly good at removing it...Sorry to make it sound confusing, but I am......wolf
 
just a quick fyi, there are some states where liquor stores can't carry anything as high as 180 proof, Ohio comes to mind... not really important, just felt like mentioning it. :)
 
Danelle,
If the cleaning doesn't work, lock the knife open and look at the exposed corner of the tang inside the handle. It should be rounded off and smooth,sometimes they can be a little to square and cause loading problems during the initial swing of the blade. If the amount of force required to open the blade, after the first part of travel, eases this might be the problem.
Regards, Greg
 
WD 40 is just fine on all steel folders. I have been using this method for years in my shop. Use an aerosol can with the straw to blast away all gunk. But do follow thru with compressed air if possible. This will do a good job in blowing away all but the evaporated carrier. Follow with a lube as already recommended. If the action is still hindered, blast clean again, try a metal polish such as flitz or simichrome. Apply a small bit to the blade area that contacts the lock bar. Work the action for a while. This will help to polish out any "micro" rough spots on their contact surfaces. Flush again and blow with air. Follow with a lube. Let us know how this works out.

BTW, toothpaste can work as a polishing agent as well.

Nakano
 
Just remember to resist the temptation to drink the PGA. Not only does it hurt like hell going down, but you might wake up next to someone .... if you know what I mean. Just my personal experience :barf:
 
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