Still having trouble getting the tip sharp w/ sharpmaker

M

MikeyE

Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
16
I'm mostly having good results with my Sharpmaker but still having trouble getting my blade as sharp towards the tip as the rest of it. Take my small Sebenza as a specific example. When I watch videos of the Sharpmaker I see folks just concentrating on keeping the blade vertical and drawing it straight through. I'm finding that as I come closer to the tip I need to adjust the angle of the handle to get the entire blade. What I mean by adjust the angle is, while still keeping it vertical, I must angle the handle toward the opposite rod from the one I'm sharpening on. And I don't mean just a little bit, I find I have to make slow and deliberate strokes, moving the handle quite a lot to maintain good contact with the rod.

Is that the correct technique? Do others find that they have to do it this way or is there something else I'm doing wrong?

I haven't seen much discussion of this or heard much mention of it in various instructional videos which makes me feel like I must be doing something wrong.

Now looking at my Delica 4, it has much less curve toward the tip than the Sebenza does and I'm getting nice even sharpness through the length of the blade.

I realize Sharpmaker technique has been discussed here ad nauseum but I haven't found much on this specific problem (even sharpness towards the tip). Thanks guys.
 
You're doing it right. The more curve the blade has the more you'll have to move the handle toward the other rod. It can be tricky to keep the correct angle, but with a little practice you should be able to do it. Try looking straight down at the blade while sharpening to make sure it's connecting at the right angle and don't pull the tip all the way off the rod. That'll dull it.
 
Alright, thanks for the reassurance. I learned the hard way about pulling the tip all the way off the rod, fortunately on a cheapo knife. Setting the sharpmaker on a lower table where I can look down on it definitely helps me to see exactly what I'm doing. I think it's getting better now.
 
I find that the corners of the rods are easier than the flats when the blade has a lot of curve. Eventually you'll need to use the flats, but you can do more on the corners than you might normally do.

Also, when I've had a tip get dull from improper sharpening I use the fishhook grove on the rods to fix it. Put the tip spine first into the grove and pull it lightly. It's usually pretty easy. Two or three swipes is usually enough. You may have to have to do a little work on the sides/bevel right near the tip on the flats of the rods, but it usually only takes a few swipes.
 
You know, it's interesting. I always thought moving the full length of the blade across the sharpener was how you were "supposed" to do it too. And then I watched someone at the SFO sharpen a knife on a Sharpmaker (where they sharpen all Spydercos for free), and after the initial sharpening, they would "touch up" certain spots that weren't quite as sharp as the other places. Hey, if they don't know how to use a Sharpmaker, I'm guessing nobody does.
 
That exactly what you must do to follow the curve, its the one thing rarely taught in sharpening but the most important. Once you get the feel for this curve you will find the knife will follow it on its own.
 
One of my friends also gave me the tip of placing a mirror directly in front of where I am working. I tried it and was surprised at the results. Seemed like I was doing it correct until I used the mirror- all good now. Plus I was also drawing the tip off the stone and have corrected now. Good Luck
 
Getting much better already! It seems obvious to me now :) Previously I was somewhat adjusting for the curve of the blade but once I started looking down from above at the contact of the edge against the stone I realized I wasn't adjusting enough. The Delica 4 is the main knife I've been practicing on so with it's comparatively flat blade I was failing to realize why the tip wasn't getting sharp (well not as sharp as the rest of the blade anyway). Thanks gents, I feel much better.
 
It is important to finish your stroke on a flat part of the stone. If your tip wraps over the stone at the end of the stroke, it will be dulled. I do not use round rods for this reason. I also don't use the ridges of the triangular prisms on the Sharpmaker. They will ruin a point faster than a round rod.
 
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