Stone options and where to start

U

usmc0811

Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
15
The knife system I am getting in a few day is going to be the KME Precision Knife Sharpening System Deluxe Kit. It comes with,
Gold series Diamond Hones
The 50 grit Beast
The XXC-100
The XC-140
The Coarse-300
The Fine-600
The X-Fine-1500

And the,
Ceramic/Arkansas stones:
The X-Coarse-80 grit
The Coarse-120 grit
The Medium-320
The medium-fine Hard Arkansas stone

My question is what set do I start with, the diamond hones or the ceramic stones?
Do I just use one set or the other? Or one and then the other?
Im thinking I use the diamond stones first and that could be all I use If im happy with the results I get. However if I want to take it even further I could go and follow them up with the Ceramic stones next if I wanted to but not needed. Am I right on this thinking. Sorry so very new to this and will be having a lot of question for all of you . Thanks for your time and any information provided.
 
Diamond hones are all you need, unless you want a mirrored polished edge for show. Lol. Diamond can leave some scratches but allow you to cut any steel fast. Your money your call.
 
MissingMontana said:
My two cents....learn how to free-hand.

Seriously.
Click to expand...
HAHA ummmm no thanks, with all my other hobbies taking up my time. I want this to be as easy as I can make it. I dont have the time to spend on perfecting the skill. I give you and anyone else the utmost respect for the skill you acquired through hard work and perseverance.
 
For what it's worth, if you just want a working edge and you don't care how it looks freehand is easy. I use a guided system most of the time however because I want more than that. I have great respect for those who can freehand a crisp-shouldered mirrored bevel with a HHT 4 edge, but I don't think that's common.
 
Just use the diamond stones. Nothing else needed. Though you will probably want to strop afterwards. I prefer to freehand strop but you can get those fancy kangaroo strops and diamond spray for your kme.

Use light pressure and don't stay in one spot.

Check out the tutorials on YouTube. Knifekrazy and Dean O

https://www.youtube.com/user/bigo57dean

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6h9pHfxvf3cR3GpFM_1IvA


Dean O suggests not using the 50 to apex. It's fast for setting an angle but of you apex at that coarse a grit you will have issues.

Apex means to basically to bring both sides to a point to form a bur.

Use the ceramic for softer steels. Like 420hc, 440c, etc.

SuperSteel, high 60+ hrc or carbide rich steels use the diamonds only.
 
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Mo2 said:
Just use the diamond stones. Nothing else needed.
Use the ceramic for softer steels. Like 420hc, 440c, etc.

SuperSteel, high 60+ hrc or carbide rich steels use the diamonds only.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the good information, I wrote it down in my notes im taking for later reference.
 
I have a KME and I free hand. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a system. All that matters in the end is sharp knives YOU are happy with.

The stones you use should be determined by the steel you're sharpening, the results you want, and your preferences. Diamonds can be pretty universal but it doesn't always mean they're the best path for the steel and if they aren't needed, why wear them? Yes, they can be cleaner to use but I think that's a poor argument against using the ceramics/naturals when you can to accomplish what you want.

For whatever your given knife, if the ceramics/naturals make sense and give you the results you want, I say go that way. If not, then use the diamonds.

Remember when using the diamonds, light pressure is best.

Dean O's KME videos are the best on YouTube.

I don't think angle cubes are necessary.

Get the pen jaws.

Pinch hard on the tip end of the knife when clamping. Hard. That will eliminate most all needs for tape. Even on full flat grinds. Make sure there's no oil on the blade.

Abuse the search function here. Lot's of KME talk.

Don't over complicate it. Keep it simple. Get sharp edges and then start to explore.
 
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