Stone or Sandpaper: which is better for newbie?

Joined
Oct 25, 2005
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Stone or Sandpaper - which is better for a novice to learn with?

I've read Juranitch's book and also Joe Talmadge's FAQ and and I'm trying to decide on which type of setup to buy. I knew this would be the forum to go to for advice.

Thanks for the help.
 
It is not so much the question of newby or not, but how sure you are that you are going to continue to use your setup. If this is just a "phase" that you are going through, you can try out a lot of things with sandpaper without investing much. Aside from the finanical aspects, sandpaper can be used clamped onto the rods of the sharpmaker and it works well on a mouse pad to setup or maintain a convex edge. For anything else (as always just my humble opinion of course) stones are better. They come in finer grids (that is not quite true, you can get special paper from leevalley for example with micron sized grits), they "replenish" themselves and thus cut faster, they obviously last longer, and they have a very different feel because of their unique bond..... Good stones are an investment, both in terms of the pleasure that you can derive from them as well as the money you can spend on them. Can you get your knives actually sharper on stones....I don't know, you can get pretty damn sharp on those M3 mylar backed sheets that Leevalley sells. In the end I think it really comes down to personal preference.

I would recommend waterstones. For the fine grits you can also look at ceramic stones (like the ones Spyderco sells). For the rough grits diamond stones are also very effective.

Alternatively, if you want a system. The easiest (and long term probably cheapest) all around sharpening system is the sharpmaker combined with a coarse diamond stone (DMT stones are excellent).
 
Ceramic stones do not have a precise grit or mesh. Grit is the particle size in the abrasive. In ceramic stones, you start with a relatively large particle size but the stone gets sintered and the particles fuse together reducing the "effective particle size". The fineness is a matter of the length and type of sintering, and not depending on the particle size you started out with. Having said that, from personal experience I would grade the gray stones of of the sharpmaker at around 800 grit, the whites at 2000-3000 and the UF stones at 4000-5000. Most people here might rate the fine 500-1000 higher or lower than I did but in general there seems to be an agreement that the numbers I listed are a good guideline. Since I compare them to Japanese waterstones these numbers are japanese convention, not American grit sizes.
 
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