Stonewashing Question for an S35VN Blade

LightGuy

LightGuy

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Sep 12, 2010
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Being a new Hinderer XM-18 3.5" owner, I was going to post this in the Hinder sub-forum, but noticed there wasn't one. Any reason why? Seems odd to me.

Anyway - I was stupid, and sharpened the blade on a Worksharp Guided system without taping up the blade, and got some very fine rubbing on the blade flats. I definitely don't like the look of that on this beautifully stonewashed blade.

Any way to re-stonewash these areas to attempt to match the rest of the blade, or re-stonewash the entire blade? I would want to keep the Hinderer symbol, so I'm assuming I would need to use fingernail polish on that and the edge.

Any help would be appreciated.

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You can't just do part of a blade, it'll never match. You need to do the entire blade at once. Covering the logo with nail polish probably wont work either. The media would remove the polish from the edge when tumbling.
 
Honed_Edge said:
You can't just do part of a blade, it'll never match. You need to do the entire blade at once. Covering the logo with nail polish probably wont work either. The media would remove the polish from the edge when tumbling.
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Thanks for the info. So basically I'll have to tumple the whole blade and just lose the logo?
 
LightGuy said:
Thanks for the info. So basically I'll have to tumple the whole blade and just lose the logo?
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It'll probably still be visible, just faded behind the new stonewash. Depending on the media you use.

It will definitely need a brand new edge after stonewashing though.
 
I'm wondering I put some polish on it and cover it with a piece of gorilla tape if that would work.. pretty sure the rocks would take a long time to chew through that, but I really don't know. I hate the thought of experimenting with this blade...
 
You might have 2 different stone wash looks..maybe? I'd do the whole blade including logo.
 
Thanks for the replies. I actually looked into having REK do a regrind on it, but I didn't want to be without the knife that long since I just got it. I called Hinderer about their stonewash refurb service, and she had me email Rick. I haven't heard back which isn't surprising, as he has a lot more important things to do than deal with a refurb question. Not even sure why they had me email him.

I guess I was hoping there would be a reasonably simple solution, but it appears that may not be the case.
 
There are ways to DIY stonewash with ceramic media and a clothes dryer; I've done it. However, those scratches look pretty deep and you might need a vibratory tumbler to make it look new again.

Just be patient and see what Hinderer says. If they won't honor it, PM me and I'll let you know how I've done my own stonewash. It's better than nothing.
 
halden.doerge said:
You could always give it a hand rubbed satin finish with some fine grit sandpaper.
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That's an option, but if the OP has never done a satin finish by hand, he probably won't be happy with the end result.

If someone doesn't know how/where to apply the correct amount of pressure on the blade, the grind will look wonky and non-uniform. The transition from bevel-to-flat will be very hard for someone who's new to accomplish correctly.

If the OP wants a satin finish on the primary bevel, he is best off sending it out for a regrind.
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll wait it out for now and see if Rick responds and will do a refurb.
 
115Italian said:
I would think restone washing alone wont remove those marks.
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Unfortunately that is possible. I may end up having to go with a regrind to clean it up. I just really hate to be without this knife all this fall, which is my favorite time to get out and hike.

Are there any other reputable craftsman out there that can do a nice regrind but are not backlogged by several months?
 
I'm voting for : Sell it cheep, take the hit, buy a new one, use tape when you sharpen it.

I was going to say that Murray Carter would say the scratches are a sign you are starting to get the reprofile angle right. But . . . not very helpful is it.
 
LightGuy said:
Unfortunately that is possible. I may end up having to go with a regrind to clean it up. I just really hate to be without this knife all this fall, which is my favorite time to get out and hike.

Are there any other reputable craftsman out there that can do a nice regrind but are not backlogged by several months?
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If you plan on doing a regrind just wait. Use the knife, it's going to get more scratches anyway. Use it, enjoy it, contact someone about a regrind later on.
 
I know it's unappealing to your eye, but being without it would be even less appealing to me. I would probably come to grips with it, as I wouldn't want to pay to have it reground even if you just get it done to satin.

You could always try the sandpaper polish after researching it if you planned on getting it reground anyway..
 
Wowbagger said:
I'm voting for : Sell it cheep, take the hit, buy a new one, use tape when you sharpen it.

I was going to say that Murray Carter would say the scratches are a sign you are starting to get the reprofile angle right. But . . . not very helpful is it.
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Honestly, as much as I hate to say it.... This.

Problem is, it'll be hard to find another used XM-18 3.5" in a non-flipper slicer grind on the marketplace.
 
LightGuy said:
Honestly, as much as I hate to say it.... This.

Problem is, it'll be hard to find another used XM-18 3.5" in a non-flipper slicer grind on the marketplace.
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There is one on there now. It's battle blue non flipper slicer for a decent price.
 
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