Stongest lock Bar None?

Tim Galyean

Tim Galyean

Joined
Nov 5, 2004
Messages
332
Just interested in what peoples opions are of the strongest lock for a folder is,and some reasoning as to why. Excluding Butterfly knives...... Thanks.
 
I would have to say that the strongest lock would be either a well done framelock, because as you put pressure on the lock it becomes more unlikely that the lock will actually fail; or a lockback because they can withstand a bit more slop in construction than a liner lock.

Sincerely,
Anthony
 
I would say either the AXIS lock or a button/plunge lock, probably the latter. Neither of these could really "slip out" or "fail" in the same way a frame lock or liner lock or lockback could. Most people don't think about plunge locks, probably because they're almost soley used on autos (William Henry buttonlocks are an exception). On a frame/linerlock, the contacting points could theoretically slip and unlock (happened to me on a CRKT), or the liner could be deformed under force (unlikely on a frame). A lockback could theoretically slip too (happened to me once, coincidentally, also a CRKT). But a buttonlock, the direction the blade pivots and the direction the lock moves are perpendicular to each other. No slippage possible. The only way for it to fail is if the contacts were extremely worn or of very soft material. And the thing is, the place wear would occur isn't really a potentially failing point.

Next would be a lockback, then framelock, then linerlock.

For the most part though, this is academic. Even "lowly" linerlocks, if made well by a reputable company, don't fail. I mean, how often do you hear of Spyderco Militarys or Al Mar SEREs, or Emersons failing?
 
While I am told that a lockback surpasses the others for strength and durability. I also use and carry some WELL-DESIGNED liner lock and frame lock designs that have never failed after some basic testing. Some manufacturers just get it right. On the other hand I have had knives from some manufacturers that seem destined to fail. If tested, the failure happened within the first few basic tests (whacking the back on a firm surface, squeezing the knife hard in my hand, etc. etc. )

Overall, when the chips are down, fixed blades still seem the best bet. I'm resigned to the idea that with a folder any failure that might occur will likely happen at the worst possible moment ... Jason.
 
Although I haven't tested it yet, I believe the lock on A.R. Niemi's megaladon would be handily stronger than any other on the market.
 
Joe Talmadge said:
Although I haven't tested it yet, I believe the lock on A.R. Niemi's megaladon would be handily stronger than any other on the market.
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yep I agree
 
Any lock will perform well if it has been correctly executed. I'm partial to the CRK integral lock, too, but not just because it's a strong, reliable lock. One of the big pluses of the integral/frame lock is that it lightens construction considerably. I like lockbacks, but a knife with that kind of locking system is going to be heavier than one that has an integral/frame lock.
 
I'm suprised no one has said the Balisong yet, that used to be the staple answer for this kind of thread ;)

I'm partial to lockbacks and Axis locks, frame locks properly done are right there with them and usually surpass lockbacks but there's only a few frame locks I like.

I don't own any liner locks any more but one that's properly done is good, just not as good IMO.

For the record, I have owned several custom and production frame locks that would regularly fail the spine whack, so even a frame lock should be tested if you believe that's important.
 
cpirtle said:
I'm suprised no one has said the Balisong yet, that used to be the staple answer for this kind of thread ;).
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Tim Galyean said:
Excluding Butterfly knives...... Thanks.
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I would have, but it'd seem like he already knows. ;)
 
Planterz said:
I would have, but it'd seem like he already knows. ;)
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Dang, and I thought I was on to something... what I get for not reading everything completely :footinmou
 
Doesn't matter ... again, in theory, since I haven't tested it, the Megaladon's lock should be strong even than a balisong. With a balisong, you'd have to shear through a pin. With the Megaladon, you'd have to shear off a giant, hardened S30V lug. The Megaladon's lock should be stronger than all the other locks mentioned above, handily in most cases!
 
Will we see the Megaladon made again. I would like to get one, but as far as I know Arlee is not making them.
 
I've got to second the Grant Hawk Toad. I really can't see how that could fail. I could see it being real tough to un-lock because of grit in the mechanism, but definitely not failing to stay locked.
 
At least theoretically (execution differences excluded), I don't think that the frame lock will even be in the same league as

Axis-,
Compression-,
back lock

In the frame lock the lock bar is under compression and will eventually twist or buckle. The axis lock requires the lock bar to be ripped out of the liner. The compression lock fails either by having the anvil pin ripped out of the liner or by the having the lock bar torque and it is currently set up intentionally (according to Sal Glesser) to fail by the latter. and for the lock bar either the lock bar rips appart or the notch tears out of the blade (according to Spyderco that is indeed a possible failure). Slipping should not be an issue as long as the lockback is correctly made.

So even though the Axis, Compression and back lock would be my top picks, I would imagine that it is mainly a function of how well and evenly the lock is executed. (e.g. I doubed that on the axis the lock bar will ever fail, so the liner strength determines the ultimate strength of the lock. A more massive lock bar will not make a stronger lock.)
 
HoB said:
In the frame lock the lock bar is under compression and will eventually twist or buckle.
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Having worked with Titanium I would suggest that everything else on the knife would break before you would twist or buckle the titanium in a lock bar.

Buy a piece of scrap Ti and work on it for a while. Try to bend it, break it, cut it, grind it and god help you - twist it. Then see if you still feel this way.

Titanium is amazing stuff, which is why so many companies that try to mass produce products made with thick pieces of it fail so miserably and run into nothing but production problems.
 
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