How To stop rust

M

Mike Moutes

Joined
Apr 16, 2019
Messages
3
using 1095 steel with a 600 gt hand rubbed satin finish and getting some staining and rusting on knifes. What is the best way to stop that ?
 
Do not use WD-40. There is a ton of bad but persistent folklore about WD-40. WD-40 literally stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula". It is a mixture of various hydrocarbons including some kinds of oil. This allows it to stand in for oils in various applications, but almost never as well as an actual oil or a product specifically intended for that application. It is also mildly toxic and should not come into regular contact with your skin.

There are plenty of better, safer, and sometimes less expensive options. As you've already seen here and in the links above, a light coating of generic 100% mineral oil from the local pharmacy works pretty well. A 16oz bottle is like two bucks at Walmart and you can imagine how long that'll last. I've used it for years without incident, though the most corrosion-prone knife steels I carry have been 8Cr13Mov and D2.
 
A lot of the collectors in the Traditional Forum use Renaissance Wax Polish if they don't want their carbon steel blades to patina.
 
knarfeng said:
A lot of the collectors in the Traditional Forum use Renaissance Wax Polish if they don't want their carbon steel blades to patina.
Click to expand...

Renaissance Wax is a popular choice for protecting surfaces on traditional rifles and revolvers as well. It's handy because it works well on both wood and metal.
 
WD 40 contains (guess what?) MINERAL OIL!
And it is not particularly toxic, and it works pretty well for rust prevention.
If you are talking about rusting while sanding-WD 40 is the way to go. Using nitrile gloves will keep the WD 40 and dirt off your hands.
Renaissance Wax is designed for items that are not going to be handled. It's designed to go on easily and to buff off easily
Neutral paste shoe polish is cheaper and protects much better. Plain old paste wax works well, too.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
WD 40 contains (guess what?) MINERAL OIL!
And it is not particularly toxic, and it works pretty well for rust prevention...
Click to expand...

Hey! I'm used to seeing you on TFL!

WD-40 contains a whole bunch of stuff and the exact recipe is proprietary. It's about a quarter petroleum-based oil but that's not necessarily the same thing as "mineral oil" in the context used here. Some of the ingredients, such as 2-butoxyethanol, are definitely bad for your health. As you said, nitrile gloves can offer reasonable skin protection during use. However, when it comes to items that you'll be using or handling regularly and will be spending lots of time in your pocket, I'd rather not use it at all.

https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/3-in-one93265487.pdf
 
The OP did not say what the proposed use of the knife was. Toxicity was not part of the question.
WD-40 is not particularly toxic if not taken internally and is commonly available. It was originally formulated to prevent rust, and will perform better than mineral oil at that specific function. There are other, better alternatives, depending on the exact needs. But, WD-40 will do what the OP wants done.
 
Thanks for all the info.....one of the knifes that I want to keep clean is a comp chopper I cut meat with. Left it in the sink for a little time and it got stained???????
 
I agree with knarfeng use Renaissance Wax it's great I have some and use it n Maxmet and M4 blade's that I have and now problems at all with,if you ever want to remove it just use contact cement remover.
 
I use a 1095 kitchen knife. I just make sure I wash it and dry it when I'm done, takes less than minute. Fortunately, the only other person who likes to use the knife is my son and he is very good about washing and drying it after use.

Ric
 
+1 on the Renaissance Wax suggestion. As it is recommended for use on metal items that are touched often it is well suited for blades and even the handles. Other waxes like that in auto and the like can actually cause corrosion over time.
 
I forgot to mention I like to apply 2 coat's to my blades as well don't know if it's needed I just to know the barrier is thick,I wait an hour or 2 before I do the next coat.
 
Why not go get yourself a big ol rare steak afterwards and get a head start on a patina to stop rust?
Regarding the WD40, it's ok, but I find it too lightweight. It'll stop a squeaky door but it'll soon start squeaking again cause it's so lightweight.
Prolly ok while you're sanding like many have said. I know 91bravo 91bravo knows what he's talking about. Jonny, you still got a pic of my Infiweiler you cleaned up fir me?
 
Last edited:
Uncle Timbo said:
Why not go get yourself a big ol rare steak afterwards and get a head start on a patina to stop rust?
Regarding the WD40, it's ok, but I find it too lightweight. It'll stop a squeaky door but it'll soon start squeaking again cause it's so lightweight.
Prolly ok while you're standing like many have said. I know 91bravo 91bravo knows what he's talking about. Jonny, you still got a pic of my Infiweiler you cleaned up fir me?
Click to expand...

I'm sure I do somewhere! lol To be honest, if you're only sanding by hand, any old oil will do. It's just to keep the dust down and the patina from forming. I've used wd40, CLP, synthetic motor oil, bacon grease, cooking oil, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top