stopping rust on CV steel

B

bladeblabber

Joined
Oct 15, 2011
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I have a case mini muskrat that I've been carrying for the last few months and I really love it. I have always loved CV steel and the nice grey patina it gets. The thing is I am having problems with rust. sweat builds up in my pocket and after a day of work there are small rust spots all over my blades. I have been just scrubbing the rust off and I oil the blades about once a week and wipe them down good every night, but I still seem to be having trouble with it. How do some of you guys that live in a warm or humid area keep rust off of your CV blades?
 
I've never had this problem but I read about it often, I use to work 120 degree temps, super humid environment, and sweat through my jeans, ( no shorts, too dangerous working with sheet metal) but my knife was used all the time, maybe just take it out and wipe it down a couple of times a day if you are not using often. when I do oil my knives the only thing I use is mineral oil. Is your patina fully formed? Some of mine are almost black and repel water, good luck hope some of this helps your problem.
 
Use baking soda, with a little water to make a paste, and scrub the blade down with it. The baking soda will neutralize the acidity from sweat or whatever else is contributing to the rust, especially if it's down in deeper pits in the steel. You'll likely notice some rust-colored staining of the baking soda paste, which means it's cleaning that stuff out. I did this with a Schrade 8OT a few weeks ago, to which I'd applied a little 'pickle-juice patina'. I left a juice-moistened paper towel wrapped around the blade for ~ 2 hours or so (in retrospect, a bit too long), and there was rust on the blade afterwards. Scrubbed it down with the baking soda, and it slammed the brakes on the rust. After that, I doused the blade in isopropyl alcohol (displaces any residual water), and then did my usual Windex wipedown on the blade, before putting it away. If you think you need to oil the blade, do that only after it's thoroughly clean, so the oil won't trap any rust-making stuff on the steel.
 
thanks for the info. I forced a patina on the blades to help repel rust, the main clip blade has a solid grey patina and the second clip blade still has a few spots that aren't grey. just wiping them down a few times a day is probably the way to go, I would just go with stainless but I love this knife to dang much;)
 
Bladeblabber, I don't mean this bad, just asking. Are you using Hoppes #9 solvent or the Hoppes oil? If its the basic solvent, it doesn't have any rust preventing properties.

I fully believe the folks on here that have such a tough time with active rust even with oiling, but I personally haven't had so much trouble.
 
stevomiller said:
Bladeblabber, I don't mean this bad, just asking. Are you using Hoppes #9 solvent or the Hoppes oil? If its the basic solvent, it doesn't have any rust preventing properties.

I fully believe the folks on here that have such a tough time with active rust even with oiling, but I personally haven't had so much trouble.
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Nope, using the Hoppes oil.
 
Are you sure it's really rust, or just dark spots forming? Have you tried just wiping it off during the day with a bandana and letting it go?

I don't use any kind of oil, just keep it dry, and it's been a 100 degrees here for a heck of a heat wave. I haven't had amy rust yet, just a general darkening a bit as the patina builds. The damascus has been pretty stable. Maryland gets pretty humid, being the land of the Chesapeake bay.

Carl.
 
definitely rust, dark and light brown spots on the blade. I'm just going to try to wipe it down more often and see if that helps.
 
I think maybe some folks have sweat that is both more acidic and saltier than typical. Maybe you are just lucky that way :D
 
stevomiller said:
I think maybe some folks have sweat that is both more acidic and saltier than typical. Maybe you are just lucky that way :D
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heard this same thing years ago, just one of the many variables. I normally dont have a problem unless i act a bonehead and forget to rinse it off, etc. but this past week or so its been 100 plus temp so lotsa sweating and my yeller soddie got the pox:eek: scrubbed it up and oiled it up, its just an ongoing part of maintenance i suppose, no worse for the wear although i wouldnt want it allover the blade
gene
 
maybe thats the case. A little bit of peppering rust won't hurt the knife, I think as knife knuts we tend to just "care" for our knives a lot more. I know a guy who is a professional hunter and he skins and cleans all of the wild boar that get killed with his yella handled CV stockman. The thing has a lot of rust on it, he doesn't seem to mind.
 
I'm sure a paste wax would work. I wouldn't put it on a valuable antique.... I also wouldn't put it on a knife that will contact food... but for general use knives, it shouldn't be a problem.

There's also a lot of nice knives with stainless blades.

Modoc ED said:
Here's an interesting thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/592423-Rust-Inhibitor-Shoot-out

The linked thread has nothing to do with it but I have been using RemOil for years. Don't care if it's food-safe or not. Hasn't killed me yet nor anyone else I'm aware of.

Anyway, I thought it would be interesting for you guys to see an actual test of three treatments side-by-side.
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Interesting. Thank you for the link, Ed. I wish he or brownells.com had tried plain ol' mineral oil.
 
I wipe my non stainless blades with Sentry Tuf-Glide every few months.
Not the Tuf-Cloth, just the Tuf-Glide liquid (a small amount) and a dry cotton rag.

It's a method that's proven effective for a long time.
For users, and for knives on display.
 
A.G. Russell's 'Rust Free' might be worth a try? Food safe. It' s worked well on the blades I've coated it with, but they don't get wet that much.

Regards, Will
 
That stuff works good.

Additionally, CLP has way better rust prevention properties than Hoppes #9. If you're going to use an oil, use CLP.
 
jackknife said:
Are you sure it's really rust, or just dark spots forming? Have you tried just wiping it off during the day with a bandana and letting it go?

I don't use any kind of oil, just keep it dry, and it's been a 100 degrees here for a heck of a heat wave. I haven't had amy rust yet, just a general darkening a bit as the patina builds. The damascus has been pretty stable. Maryland gets pretty humid, being the land of the Chesapeake bay.

Carl.
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I agree with this Carl. Im in the same general area as you and I have been experiencing the same heat wave. Leaving my blade dry and clean with a patina worked even on the hottest recent days working out in the heat. Even when the pockets fill with sweat it was fine. Then I went for a mountain bike ride for a few hours on one of the 100+ days high humidity with my 85 in my pocket. It DID gain red rust spots in a straight line across the blade. I was also so sweaty I actually looked more dry after I jumped in the river :)

Anyhow, I put some CLP on mine before the next ride and it worked.

Brasso3 said:
That stuff works good.

Additionally, CLP has way better rust prevention properties than Hoppes #9. If you're going to use an oil, use CLP.
Click to expand...

I agree, I have used Breakfree CLP for years on all my firearms/knives. Great stuff.

Kevin
 
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