Storage and lubricant trouble

[kingcole]

So here's a random question: I live in Oregon, and have been fighting rust for as long as I've lived here due to the near-constant moisture in the air. When I first moved here, I particularly had trouble with my "safe queens" - anything packed in a cardboard box and left in a safe was prone to moisture buildup. This was compounded by the fact that my only real option for storage is located in a "dry" basement (as dry as basements get in Oregon - hehe).

My solution was to get everything out where I can see it: I've now got three wall cases (very simple 2'x4' plexiglass and plywood display cases, sanded and spray painted with Krylon semi-gloss black) that hold everything, open and where I can keep an eye on them. So far, so good, as far as rust goes.

Here's the problem, though: I've been using these cases for about six months, and have noticed that when I pull out any of my folders, the action is REALLY stiff, like there's no lubricant in the joints. This happens to all of the knives, whether they've got steel liners, phosphor bronze washers, or just FRN-to-metal joints (early Spydercos, etc.). The lubricants I use are exclusively Militec or fluorinated grease (mostly the latter). Fixed blades are stored with a thin coat of oil (Militec) on them, and this disappears within a month or two - no rust, though, as I rub everything I handle down with a tuff-kote cloth between oilings.

SO, here's the question: is it possible that the paint on the case is somehow drying out the lube? Like I said, the cases were spray painted, but the cases weren't installed until long after the paint smell was gone.

I've pulled a few knives apart, and there's no visible rust or damage in the joints... they're just dry. I don't see evidence of the lubricants gumming up, though I suppose I may have missed something.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance guys.

JC

 

[RKH]

Mil-Tec is not a rust preventive but something like Tuff Glide Cloth should work well. I have had good luck withMil-Tec as a lube but I heat the knife up after applying so it bonds with the metal with a blow dryer for just a few minutes. Also, Benchmade has some good stuff called Blue Lube. Ballistol is another good lube.

RKH

 

[Dog of War]

That's quite interesting. You might want to contact Militec and see what they think ... if they don't have a good idea what's going on, I'd bet they would be pretty interested in your experience.

I only have two thoughts, one being that yes, some volatile compound of the paint has reacted with the lube as you suspect. The other would be, did you completely remove any other lube from these knives before treating with Militec? If not, maybe that's what's reacting.

Hope you let us know what you decide or find out, and keep this thread updated down the road, whether it happens again or not.

 

[yoda4561]

For the love of god don't use militec for preservation. While I could think of worse things... like vinegar, it's not much better when push comes to shove. If you ask the manufacturer they will tell you that I'm full of it, but I'm not trying to sell it to you either. I'd use wd40 before I used militec to protect anything. For general lubrication it's okay if it's mixed with a proper oil around 3:1 oil/militec. I've been using militec in that way since 2001 trying to get rid of the stuff.

FP-10 and Weaponshield CLP (current favorite) are what I use now. The knock against weaponshield for protection (even though I use it with great success for this) is that it has a high surface tension. This gives it good penetrating qualities despite the thickness, but it also means it beads up a bit on a large flat polished surface like you find on most knives. On blued, bead blasted, slightly rusted, or parkerized finishes weaponshield and FP-10 are excellent. For everything else remoil, breakfree, and Sheath seem to work better at making a barrier film. VPCI (vapor phase corrosion inhibitors) should be good inside the storage cabinets.

 

[dsmegst]

I've been using Militec as a LUBE on my guns for over 10 years now, but never as a metal preservative. It sucks at rust prevention. For that, I use Breakfree LP. So far, my knives get good old 3-in-1 oil.

 

[kingcole]

Thanks guys. I'm not too concerned about the rust issue now - I keep on top of it, so I've not had any trouble with that in a long time. I'll definitely switch to a different oil for wiping them down, though!

My main issue is what in the world is drying out the pivots on these folders: I've never had a pivot dry out like that, and in this case, it's happening within two to three weeks of putting a knife back in the case.

Again, is there any chance that there's damage occurring with this? The fact that even the pivots that are greased (again, Jim Reeves fluorinated grease) are dry within a relatively short period makes me nervous.

I'll definitely check into VPCI materials for long term storage.

JC

 

[yoda4561]

Well with properly applied oils including militec, the pivot may appear dry after some time, usually though that's just a really well settled in oil film, it's still there just very difficult to see. Oil can also creep through the pivot to the pivot threads, and between the scales and liners/lockwork after application. There's a little evaporation going on there too depending on the particular oil you use. Militec shouldn't evaporate that fast though so it's probably just penetrating into all the tightly fitted areas of the knife. Greases tend to "stiffen up" when not used, over a few years they may dry out a bit, but with the fluorinated grease I think it may have something to do with the thickening agent or something. I don't think it's indicative of any sort of problem, however odd it may be.

 

[Bushman5]

as for moisture issues....

get a bag of the cat litter SILICA CRYSTALS, its the same stuff they put in moisture absorb packets. Get a jar and fill it up, leave the lid off. Put into your case. It will absorb any moisture. every few months, dump out and put fresh crystals in. . Also put in a few packs of VCI (vapor corrosion inhibitors).

a 40 watt lightbulb (incan) also works great, put in bottom of case, the heat will rise up and drive off moistue

 

[knarfeng]

So here's a random question: I live in Oregon, and have been fighting rust for as long as I've lived here due to the near-constant moisture in the air. When I first moved here, I particularly had trouble with my "safe queens" - anything packed in a cardboard box and left in a safe was prone to moisture buildup. This was compounded by the fact that my only real option for storage is located in a "dry" basement (as dry as basements get in Oregon - hehe).

My solution was to get everything out where I can see it: I've now got three wall cases (very simple 2'x4' plexiglass and plywood display cases, sanded and spray painted with Krylon semi-gloss black) that hold everything, open and where I can keep an eye on them. So far, so good, as far as rust goes.

Here's the problem, though: I've been using these cases for about six months, and have noticed that when I pull out any of my folders, the action is REALLY stiff, like there's no lubricant in the joints. This happens to all of the knives, whether they've got steel liners, phosphor bronze washers, or just FRN-to-metal joints (early Spydercos, etc.). The lubricants I use are exclusively Militec or fluorinated grease (mostly the latter). Fixed blades are stored with a thin coat of oil (Militec) on them, and this disappears within a month or two - no rust, though, as I rub everything I handle down with a tuff-kote cloth between oilings.

SO, here's the question: is it possible that the paint on the case is somehow drying out the lube? Like I said, the cases were spray painted, but the cases weren't installed until long after the paint smell was gone.

I've pulled a few knives apart, and there's no visible rust or damage in the joints... they're just dry. I don't see evidence of the lubricants gumming up, though I suppose I may have missed something.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance guys.

JC

I'm not sure what paint you are using, but, once the paint is cured, no commercially available paint of which I am aware would have an effect on fluorinated grease or Militec.

Commercially available Paints and coatings of which I am aware include:
Latex
Alkyd
polyurethane
epoxy
acrylic
lacquer
Shellac

Frank R