Store bought electrolyte or DIY electrolyte

U

unky_gumbi

Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
7,951
So I just finished putting my Crawford Etcher together last night and was wondering what people find gives them the best etch over the widest range of steels? Up until now I have only ever worked with carbon steels, 5160, 1084, and O-1, but I would like to start doing some CPM 154 and other stainless steels as well.

I was using a car battery charger and a strong vinegar, salt, water mixture as my etching solution and getting decent results most of the time. Not sure if the inconsistency was the charger or the solution so I am looking to get consistent results now. The etcher is set up on the center tap so 12.6V AC and DC not the 26.2 that others have done. I do like a deeper etch if that makes a difference.

One thing to remember I am in Canada so telling me to buy brand X from a US supplier most likely wont work for me being that most chemicals can't be shipped to me at a reasonable price:( so just brand X, Y or Z suggestions will do and I can try find a Canadian dealer.

If you have a suggestion be it DIY or store bought shout it out and if possible a picture or link to one of you etches would be greatly appreciated:thumbup:

Thanks
George
 
Store bought electrolyte is so cheap relative to what you need to use to get a good etch that, if you can get it, use it. The same store will usually sell a proper neutralizer as well which will make sure you dont get corrosion at a later date after the etch from not having all the electrolyte properly cleaned up.

If you're not able to find commercial ones, just salt water works decent enough, saturated enough so that salt no longer disolves in it.
 
George, I also have a Crawford Etcher and get the best results with saltwater. Tried with the vinegar but got worst, not better results.That is with 1075/1080, 1084, 5160 and 1095 so far.

Here is a pic with 5160.
bowie02.jpg


Sorry but I haven's tried commercial electrolytes.
 
I use an electrolyte from True Grit. I brought it in whith a bunch of belts. I buy from them regularly. Their prices on belts and the variety I can get works real well for me. Have you bought from them yet. Where there is a dollar difference on each belt of the same make and size there is a huge price difference.There isn't a customs hold up problem and the duty for me for the last 4 or 5 shipments has not been there. Frank
 
I never use neutralizer.

I shoot the part with windex and give a good finger scrubbing on my way to the sink, where I rinse, and then scrub again with baking soda.

Dirt cheap, and works like a champ.
 
Well after reading everyone's posts I got to thinking that maybe my solution wasn't the problem so I broke out the multimeter and checked the voltages at the leads. They were reading half of what the were supposed to be. So I opened up the case and started taking readings ate every connection to chase down the culprit. Turns out I got a mislabeled transformer. I am going to test it out again after supper to see how it marks now, but I think it should be good. If I don't get a good etch this time I am moving on to store bought electrolyte.
 
OK my revisions to the wiring on the transformer made it work with my salt water vinegar solution, but I seem to be getting a lot of copper transfer om my test etches. It doesn't seem to matter how I set up the leads either + to piece - to pad or - to piece + to pad I still get copper transfer.

Could it be that I have managed to contaminate my felt with copper on the first etch and that is where it is coming from or is it my copper pipe electrode under the felt? If it is the piece of pipe I used what else would you suggest as the electrode under the felt?
 
I'd bet it's the copper under the felt. I read Ernie Grospitch uses a brass pad under felt, Crawford says to use stainless and that's what I did. It works well.
 
unky_gumbi said:
OK my revisions to the wiring on the transformer made it work with my salt water vinegar solution, but I seem to be getting a lot of copper transfer om my test etches. It doesn't seem to matter how I set up the leads either + to piece - to pad or - to piece + to pad I still get copper transfer.

Could it be that I have managed to contaminate my felt with copper on the first etch and that is where it is coming from or is it my copper pipe electrode under the felt? If it is the piece of pipe I used what else would you suggest as the electrode under the felt?
Click to expand...

Are you only using AC (mark)? You should not get transfer/plating with DC (etch) when connected right.
 
Thanks for raising this question unki. It reminded me that my friends have been telling me I need to mark my work... now I'll set out to give myself the ability to do so.

- Greg
 
A few questions...

What voltage do these etching machines run/use?

Are they anything like a electroplating machine? One lead for positive, and one for neg.?

How much is it to have a template made?

m
 
anvilring said:
A few questions...

What voltage do these etching machines run/use?

Are they anything like a electroplating machine? One lead for positive, and one for neg.?

How much is it to have a template made?

m
Click to expand...

What voltage do these etching machines run/use?
12 ish volts AC and DC
DC for deep etch and AC to blacken the mark

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/index.shtml

How much is it to have a template made?

http://erniesknives.com/knifemaker_stencil.html
 
unky_gumbi said:
...what else would you suggest as the electrode under the felt?
Click to expand...

I switched to q-tips myself. Gives me more control. 3 Q-tips both ends (going over the whole stencil dabbing for 2-3 seconds then switching end) to etch and one both ends to darken. Works good.
 
I have more luck with a full width etching pad, myself. I tried q-tips but don't like them when marking a hollow grind. I like being able to firmly and evenly press the stencil down, it's hard to tape the stencil down extra firmly onto a concave surface. Also I've etched unevenly with a q-tip, some areas darker than others. Practice probably would have helped with that.

Patrice and several others I know of here do excellently with q-tips, I guess it's an individual sort of thing with many variables, experiment to see what works for you.

Mind you, I mark mostly carbon steels but I've marked S30V and ats34 with fair results using a cup of warm water, one teaspoon of table salt, and one tsp of white vinegar stirred well.
 
the trick to keeping a stencil against a concave surface is actually, put a few drops of electrolyte under the stencil before you put it down, and squish it flat, and let the surface tension of the liquid hold it against the blade, then tape it in place, and etch with it wet, it wont go anywhere, and will remain held down.

For behind the pad, all mine are stainless.

Also Felholter, what you describe is neutralizing =) you're not using a commercial one, but you're doing it all the same =D For how cheap the commercial ones are on a per-mark basis, I just use the stuff that was done by a chemist.
 
Bought the etcher and ordered the stencil today. I guess I've made my last unmarked piece.
 
Salem Straub said:
I have more luck with a full width etching pad, myself. I tried q-tips but don't like them when marking a hollow grind. I like being able to firmly and evenly press the stencil down, it's hard to tape the stencil down extra firmly onto a concave surface. Also I've etched unevenly with a q-tip, some areas darker than others. Practice probably would have helped with that.

Patrice and several others I know of here do excellently with q-tips, I guess it's an individual sort of thing with many variables, experiment to see what works for you.

Mind you, I mark mostly carbon steels but I've marked S30V and ats34 with fair results using a cup of warm water, one teaspoon of table salt, and one tsp of white vinegar stirred well.
Click to expand...


I am with you, I have tried the Q-tip and I just can't seem to get an even etch. Could be that I am just too cheap to buy the good Q-tips:p My etching pad is home made too, for the grand cost of $8, including a sheet of felt that I scavenged. I am going to switch the electrode over to some stainless tonight and give it a test. Then the daunting task of wiring up my VFD:eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top