Story of a Boys Knife

Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
788
Got my Boys Knife today. When I first saw the pattern, I fell in love. I had sold off most of my knives and was down to a Amber bone Case Canoe(after I lost my Texas Jack...loved that knife, name appealed to my ego. I hope an IHOP busboy enjoys it). It worked, it cut things, but it didn't really connect with me(I love that I would sound crazy to anyone that doesn't love knives, but ya'll know what I mean). But then I saw the #15. Stopped me in my tracks. I think it reminded me of my favorite fixed blade, the Kephart.

My Yellow Jigged Spear point came today. And it is exactly what I wanted. I have a feeeew minor complaints, but I love it over all. Like many, I have problems with the nail nick on the main blade, but you get used to sliding the thumb up the pen, or pushing down with the left thumb on the pen. Plus the pen is, when you get down to it, my most used blade on a knife. And one of the rivets was punched down poorly, annoyed me at first. From the one GEC I owned previously(Trapper) which is a freaking 11 on the nail breaker, to my Cases which are 1 on the scale, I would rate the 15 a 4. Very smooth and easy.

Well here is the beginning of my 15 aging journal. My only none-case pocket knife. Sorry for the rant, enjoy the pictures. I plan on adding more as the knife ages.

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I love the crisp classic lines of the #15, it's one of the best-looking production knives I've seen, something you really want to put in your pocket and have some adventures with. But the lack of foresight in terms of the pen blocking the pull is a design flaw in my opinion, and one which could so easily be solved. I know there have been a lot of complaints about this aspect of the knife, but mine arrived with the entire pull TOTALLY covered by the pen as the kick had been over-ground on the main blade (please posters, I am not soliciting DIY advice on this, it's covered in the original Boy's Knife thread) and the UK dealer I obtained it from was unable to replace it for lack of stock. In a gesture so typical of this forum, another poster generously sent me a replacement, but a good 2 months down the line, I'm still waiting for the mailman. I look forward to having a #15 in my hands once again, but I do wish GEC had thought a little harder about this aspect of the design, and in the case of my original knife, I'm not sure how it got past QC, since the main blade couldn't be opened without opening the pen first (and again, I've read all the 'tricks').

Jack
 
Congrats on the #15 - love the antique yellow bone and spear combo!
(Jack - hope you get your #15 soon)
 
I have the same knife in ebony. A very special knife, to be sure. Looking forward to seeing yours progress.
 
I love the crisp classic lines of the #15, it's one of the best-looking production knives I've seen, something you really want to put in your pocket and have some adventures with. But the lack of foresight in terms of the pen blocking the pull is a design flaw in my opinion, and one which could so easily be solved. I know there have been a lot of complaints about this aspect of the knife, but mine arrived with the entire pull TOTALLY covered by the pen as the kick had been over-ground on the main blade (please posters, I am not soliciting DIY advice on this, it's covered in the original Boy's Knife thread) and the UK dealer I obtained it from was unable to replace it for lack of stock. In a gesture so typical of this forum, another poster generously sent me a replacement, but a good 2 months down the line, I'm still waiting for the mailman. I look forward to having a #15 in my hands once again, but I do wish GEC had thought a little harder about this aspect of the design, and in the case of my original knife, I'm not sure how it got past QC, since the main blade couldn't be opened without opening the pen first (and again, I've read all the 'tricks').

Jack

I agree that this is a serious design flaw, and I'm very surprised at GEC. If there was a working prototype, it should have been clear that this is a problem area it the kick on both blades is not exactly right. Could have easily put the blade on the other side like on the Case Texas jack and other jack's. Too much in our society this kind of thing pops up more and more. Poor design with no forethought.

One solution is to sit the pen blade lower in the handle and make a small half moon cutout by the nail nick like on some Case Eisenhower pen knives. It would be a very easy fix.

Carl.
 
My #15 is in my pocket right now. It's a great little knife, but I agree with the other folks about the hidden nail nick on the large spear blade. I also had some issue with the very sharp spine and swedges on the knife. I actually cut myself on the spine of the blade while pushing it into some wood with my thumb. I was surprised the spine and swedges were that sharp. So I took off the some of the sharp edges with a medium grit sharpening rod and it's much more comfortable now. The jigged bone on these models is particularly nice and overall it feels great in the hand.
 
There may be variances from one example to the next. My #15 spear is not difficult to open at all. You do have to approach it differently. Like the OP said, you need to adjust your approach vector, but the spear blade opens with no problem. I do, however, find myself using the pen blade more, so--
I have looked at photos of old time knives and they appeared to have a very similar set-up. That said, I can see how if the kicks aren't adjusted just so, the individual user's experience would vary greatly. One of the reasons I just prefer having the blades on opposite sides, ala Case. Having them on the same side looks better, but this sort of issue would be moot if they were switched.
 
congrats on the knife, looks great, and thanks for the pictures, can't wait to see more
 
I agree on all accounts. I love the #15, but one of the two spear point versions that own was very difficult to open because of the pen blade. I ended up cutting a thumb notch in one like many of the old jack knives had and it now sees a lot of pocket time.

The clip versions that I have don't suffer from the same problem. With that said, the patter is almost perfect in my opinion. Perfect would be a #15 with a shield, easy open, and spear blade.
 
If the clip point had more of a shape like on the 68, I would have snagged it. But the clip for the 15 is way to pronounced for my tastes.

My nick is mostly hidden as well, but I can tell with the tips location when closed that it couldn't be exposed more or it would be poking me when closed. Nowhere near as hidden as Jack's though.
 
glad you said that, always suspected it might be my imagination, I do like a 68 clip blade :)

If the clip point had more of a shape like on the 68, I would have snagged it. But the clip for the 15 is way to pronounced for my tastes.

My nick is mostly hidden as well, but I can tell with the tips location when closed that it couldn't be exposed more or it would be poking me when closed. Nowhere near as hidden as Jack's though.
 
If it just didn't have half stops, I'd be all over it. They are beautiful knives for sure though.
 
Thanks. I've felt like a kid waiting for Santa Claus! :)

Here's a pic of the knife I couldn't open.

Bummer on that one Jack. I Was a tad disappointed in those as well, I thought the swedge was a tad long for the general layout. A shorter swedge and longer nick would have saved a lot of this shortcoming.





As you can see on the old Bower Barlow, the nick extends past where the curve of the tip starts to drop off, allowing purchase, and sliding the nail in the nick towards the base of the blade lifts it easily with the help of the pen blades curved tip. I can open my main, but it does require a different approach than normal.
 
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