Straight 1095 forms a patina while CV just forms rust…

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Apr 7, 2006
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I have a lot of GEC 1095 knives and a couple Case CV knives. I've noticed a definite pattern of the GEC knives forming nice looking patinas over time. The GEC knives seem to almost be impervious to rust, they just form a dark gray patina (and there is nothing I can do to stop it) and seem to stay in that condition after any further use.

On the other hand I have had my CV Case knives for a lot longer and only my Sodbuster has formed anything even close to a patina. It was more of a light blue hint of a color change. The CV seems to be much more prone to spot rusting instead. All of my CV blades are highly polished and pocket carry/hand oil seems to cause tiny spots of rust to intiate then spread into small dots of rust: usually only a few dots per blade but it’s pretty consistant.

Is this a common observation? My preference is definitely for GEC’s plain ole 1095 for a few reasons but I sure do like the high polish on my Case blades...
 
Just oil the blades and live with it. It's been my experience that the patina formed on a blade is directly influenced by the material (fish, beef, pork, cloth, manure, blood, etc.) and the environment the blade is used on/in. Rust spots - just plain rust, will form on 1095. I've had it happen to GEC knives I've had/have. I just wipe the blade with an oily rag and call it a day. If you like your blades to shine, buy stainless steel.

Don't forget to oil the joints.
 
I find they patina in a different way, but my 1095 knives pepper spot more quickly than case cv. Just my experience.
 
If you plan to carry and like a patina, why not etch it on arrival with a potato or such?
 
Just oil the blades and live with it. It's been my experience that the patina formed on a blade is directly influenced by the material (fish, beef, pork, cloth, manure, blood, etc.) and the environment the blade is used on/in. Rust spots - just plain rust, will form on 1095. I've had it happen to GEC knives I've had/have. I just wipe the blade with an oily rag and call it a day. If you like your blades to shine, buy stainless steel.

Don't forget to oil the joints.

The strange thing is that they are used in identical things and my Case CV is still extremely polished and bright with spots of rust. I have had rust on my GEC knives, but it's extremely light and stays on the surface; it's easily wiped off with an oily rag. The rust on my Case knives needs to be mechanically removed.
 
I sand my CV blades with 600 grit, wipe with alcohol and dip in hot apple cider vinegar. It seems to stay more even that way.
 
During some attempts at dyeing the bone on some Case CV knives using RIT dye stovetop method, I would notice afterwards that I would find some small pits on the CV blades. Not all over, just a few tiny pits, and only in certain areas in small groups. The rest of the blades were still bright and shiny, no patina. They were not surface stains, they were small pits, like something had been eaten away. My theory is that there are small imperfections or inclusions in the steel in certain spots that are more subject to rust or other chemical reactions. Could be wrong, I have no background in metallurgy.

I did learn, however, to only use that stovetop dye method on SS knives, which have never shown any ill effect from it.
 
I find that they do patina a little differently. I'll admit, the GEC stuff does get a prettier patina. High polish or not.
 
If you plan to carry and like a patina, why not etch it on arrival with a potato or such?

I think a patina looks great . but I good patina IMO must be earned . over time and with use I have never understand why any one would want to rush it . the best looking old knives are old knives ;)
 
I think a patina looks great . but I good patina IMO must be earned . over time with use I have never understand why any one would want to rush it . the best looking old knives are old knives ;)

This is exactly how I feel. A forced patina is like buying ripped jeans...
 
I think a patina looks great . but I good patina IMO must be earned . over time and with use I have never understand why any one would want to rush it . the best looking old knives are old knives ;)

So, start with a forced patina while the good patina develops over time?
 
I had one old timer tell me that his grandpa believed in cleaning all knives after being used for butchering with lye soap and apple cider vinegar. Makes me wonder if some of the old knives you see, while not necessarily having a forced patina, also developed patina by both how they were used but also by how they were cleaned? If you wiped a carbon blade down with apple cider vinegar on a regular basis, I guess you are unintentionally forcing patina. Just a thought.
 
My Case CV takes patina very similar to my GEC 1095's. Only time I've observed spot rust is on a blade that does not get used. I have some CV blades that are still shiny but rusty spots start to form - particularly where there are finger prints. This is common on the spey blade on my stockmans - i just don't use that blade very often, therefore they don't get natural patina. I've not observed any rust on a well used blade with patina - thats on both CV and 1095. So i've decided to force patina on secondary blades that don't get frequent use - preemtive strike. But in general, I do prefer to let natural patina over forced patina.

- Rex
 
I had one old timer tell me that his grandpa believed in cleaning all knives after being used for butchering with lye soap and apple cider vinegar. Makes me wonder if some of the old knives you see, while not necessarily having a forced patina, also developed patina by both how they were used but also by how they were cleaned? If you wiped a carbon blade down with apple cider vinegar on a regular basis, I guess you are unintentionally forcing patina. Just a thought.

:thumbup::thumbup: This is exactly true and a forced patina will inhibit rust better as long as the blade is oiled. It's a tool, not a pair of jeans.

Thanks jec88
 
I have noticed like you that GECs steel developes a nice patina. It forms quickly too! I have a couple of cv knives and they don't seem to develop much for me either. Even though they look similar, maybe the Case polish is a higher grit so more resistant to staining?
 
I oil mine when I first get them and use the delights out of them only wiping them after using them for food prep. I use to think 1095 got a patina a little easier but now a days I can't tell much difference, except CV sharpens just a little easier.
 
I sand my CV blades with 600 grit, wipe with alcohol and dip in hot apple cider vinegar. It seems to stay more even that way.

I sometimes clean my blades with a Scotch-Brite (SP?) pad. Mostly, I just oil the blade/s and joints and away I go.
 
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