Hello. I have been using a straight razor for a number of years now. I recently took it in for professional sharpening and when it came back... It was usable. I am not an inexperienced knife sharpener, but I am having trouble getting a straight razor back into shape. Suggestions please!?
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straight razors
- Thread starter Belsavis
- Start date
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
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- 90,915
Welcome to Bladeforums!
I don't shave so I can't help with the topic, but I moved this to the appropriate forum.
I don't shave so I can't help with the topic, but I moved this to the appropriate forum.
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2008
- Messages
- 45
If you push on the edge of a straight it can roll the edge, and I've heard that you have to keep the spine on the hone the whole time.
Check out straight razor place if you need more advice there are alot of people who know alot of things about this more specific subject.
Check out straight razor place if you need more advice there are alot of people who know alot of things about this more specific subject.
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2006
- Messages
- 3,724
I've only gotten into actually maintaining and using straights relatively recently, but I've done some research and experimentation. Feel free to take what I say with a grain (or handful!) of salt.
For starters, you'll probably want some manner of large, flat sharpening stones. In my case, I've got a 1000/4000 grit combo waterstone and an 8000 grit water stone.
Hitman's right about the pressure. I'd start on the 4000 grit for a dull razor, using only as much pressure as necessary to keep the razor flat on the stone. Depending on the state of the edge, use an appropriate number of strokes edge-forward. I usually finish each grit with a couple edge trailing strokes... apparently it helps prevent a wire edge on straights... or so I've read!
Rinse your razor off between grits too... and when drying the blade, treat the edge very gingerly. A feather-light stropping on a soft towel for example.
Anyway, after 4000 grit, I repeat the process on an 8000 grit. Winding up this step, I try to use lighter and lighter pressure, till I'm practically just guiding the razor with an open hand.
Sadly, I don't yet have a stone finer than 8000 grit, nor a strop. Just haven't taken that financial plunge yet! In lieu of a traditional leather strop though, I improvised one out of a 2x4, denim, and with some baby powder as a makeshift stropping compound:
Several light passes over the strop and the razor is good enough to use on my whiskers!
For starters, you'll probably want some manner of large, flat sharpening stones. In my case, I've got a 1000/4000 grit combo waterstone and an 8000 grit water stone.
Hitman's right about the pressure. I'd start on the 4000 grit for a dull razor, using only as much pressure as necessary to keep the razor flat on the stone. Depending on the state of the edge, use an appropriate number of strokes edge-forward. I usually finish each grit with a couple edge trailing strokes... apparently it helps prevent a wire edge on straights... or so I've read!
Rinse your razor off between grits too... and when drying the blade, treat the edge very gingerly. A feather-light stropping on a soft towel for example.
Anyway, after 4000 grit, I repeat the process on an 8000 grit. Winding up this step, I try to use lighter and lighter pressure, till I'm practically just guiding the razor with an open hand.
Sadly, I don't yet have a stone finer than 8000 grit, nor a strop. Just haven't taken that financial plunge yet! In lieu of a traditional leather strop though, I improvised one out of a 2x4, denim, and with some baby powder as a makeshift stropping compound:
Several light passes over the strop and the razor is good enough to use on my whiskers!
What about usual leather belt? There are two sides belts with one side covered by thin abrasive and second one is just clean. After finishing on the stones, you will need few passes on abrasive side (without big pressure) and after that some more passes on clean side. I use it regularly to keep my old razor sharp. It works.
What about a big rawhide dog bone? You can soak it and then "untie" it. Then you can attach it to a board, like the denim strop above. You could probable keep it from hardening with baby oil or Ballistol. Perhaps neatsfoot oil mixed with baby oil. Haven't tried it yet. Just a thought.
Personally, I'd like to have that Boker strop, but I only have one straight and haven't shaved with it.
Personally, I'd like to have that Boker strop, but I only have one straight and haven't shaved with it.
- Joined
- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 7,745
rawhide? never heard that one before. could be interesting to try....
According to the guys over at SRP, 8k, as long as it is flat, is a good grit for razors. I use a 8k ceramic, although most guys seem to use water stones. denim or leather can be used for stropping, and other abrasives on the strop are not really necessary.
there is a very good wiki with lots of info over at straight razor place.
According to the guys over at SRP, 8k, as long as it is flat, is a good grit for razors. I use a 8k ceramic, although most guys seem to use water stones. denim or leather can be used for stropping, and other abrasives on the strop are not really necessary.
there is a very good wiki with lots of info over at straight razor place.
Go to www.straightrazorplace.com and contact Lynn Abrams. He can get you fixed up most likely and answer your questions. Good Luck.
-Tye
-Tye
I would assume your using your correct hones. I'v heard of amatures using a regular sharpening stone. Anyways if your just doing touch ups, then you could possibly get either a barbers hone or a 12k grit hone and do a few light passes on each side (about 5 each) and then try that out.
For bringing an old antique dull razor back to shave ready condition you need a whole set, 1k grit stone for setting a bevel, then a 4k grit stone and then an 8k grit stone, then finish with a 12k or a barbers hone. The process of using the stones can be found on StraightRazorPlace.com
For bringing an old antique dull razor back to shave ready condition you need a whole set, 1k grit stone for setting a bevel, then a 4k grit stone and then an 8k grit stone, then finish with a 12k or a barbers hone. The process of using the stones can be found on StraightRazorPlace.com