Strategies for beating a nailbreaker

on_the_edge

on_the_edge

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I recently picked up a 2-bladed Case barlow that appears to have been made in the 1920s. It has extremely strong snap on both blades, but the pen is basically impossible for me to open when the main blade is closed. I can open it when the main blade is open, although it is difficult. (There are two springs. My ability to open the pen blade when the main blade is open is **I believe** because I can get a little better angle on the pen blade that I cannot get with the main blade closed.) Anyway, the knife is in pretty good condition, so I don't think corrosion is an issue. I know that it has also been used and has probably been around the block a lot, so I am not really expecting it to loosen up with additional age and use. I can certainly put some mineral oil on the joint, but is there anything else that might help that I am not thinking of?

Thanks in advance for any help, gents! :thumbup:
 
I had a similar problem with an old no name slippie. I found it sitting in the bottom of my tackle box one day and tried to open it. I almost ripped my index finger nail out. I alleviated some of the problem by soaking the pivots in WD 40 and working them. Repeat as necessary and blow out with compressed air and lube to your liking. Hope this helps.
 
The only real way to fix a spring that's too stiff, is to grind off material from it. That is, if it's the spring that's the culprit. Quite often, especially with old knives, it's accumulated gunk in the joint, in which case a thorough cleaning and oiling might fix things.
 
I have an 'Old Timer' (Ulster) barlow with the same issue. And it's further complicated by the fact the nail nick on the pen blade sits very low, no easy way to get a firm hold on the blade when opening it. Your post made me wonder if the barlows are a little more prone to this particular problem (I don't know).

I'd also give the knife a good flush with WD-40, and exercise the pivot as much as possible while doing that. With an 'old' knife, pretty much anything (gummed up oil, dirt, corrosion) is the culprit to varying degrees. Short of re-grinding the spring, as mentioned before, getting the joint as clean as possible and lubricated well is about as much as I think can be done, without taking the knife apart.
 
I have used Militec. Is it just super tight, or is it rusted? I would use a knife opener, I got one from one of the GEC owners at the Chesapeake Knife show, I don't have any idea where you could get one online.
 
silenthunterstudios said:
I have used Militec. Is it just super tight, or is it rusted? I would use a knife opener, I got one from one of the GEC owners at the Chesapeake Knife show, I don't have any idea where you could get one online.
Click to expand...

I think it is super tight. The liners are steel for sure, but especially the area around the pivot seems to be pretty corrosion free. I would imagine that is because of prior opening and closing the blade and the rubbing that occurs when doing so.

As far as using something like Militec or WD-40, if I do use something like one of those products, is there an easy way to get the knife back to being able to use in cutting food without concern for ingesting the lube/cleaner? Obviously, I could wash it with soap and water, but I don't really want water to get into some hard-to-reach/dry area and have it promote rust. I like using knives like this to cut up muffins, bagels, burritos, etc. Of course, I try to keep the blade as clean as possible at all times before using it on food.
 
Use dish washing liquid on the joint, then flush thoroughly with hot water. Soak overnight in mineral spirits.

This has worked very well; however, I am not concerned about affecting the handle scales.
 
The WD-40 won't likely be an issue (for food use), when applied to the pivot only. Any residual on the blade can be cleaned off with Windex or something similar.

As has been suggested, you can also wash the knife in HOT water with dish soap, after the WD-40 flush. Rinse thoroughly in HOT water, that helps to ensure that any residual moisture will quickly evaporate off. I clean all of my knives this way (carbon and stainless), and I've never had any corrosion issues from residual moisture left behind. After the knife is completely dry, re-apply just a little WD-40 in the joints.

When used only occasionally, WD-40 won't damage bone/plastic/delrin scales. The solvent in WD-40 is very mild, and will evaporate away quickly, leaving what amounts to mineral oil behind.
 
Mineral oil is nontoxic. Use the USP grade found in drugstores ($1.53 a bottle), it is sold as a laxative.
 
silenthunterstudios said:
I have used Militec. Is it just super tight, or is it rusted? I would use a knife opener, I got one from one of the GEC owners at the Chesapeake Knife show, I don't have any idea where you could get one online.
Click to expand...

AG Russell carries a "Steel thumbnail"
 
Have the same problem with the pen blade on a Camillus Barlow.
Tried working it, cleaning with air, oils, detergents. Nothing seems to work so it just sits in the back of a drawer.
 
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