Strider SNG

M

michelle_kde

Joined
Apr 11, 2009
Messages
15
I have an SNG - I carry IWB. I hadn't opened it in a few days there is now rust spots on both sides of blades! crap! :-( What can I use to clean it off. It's probably due to the humidity and moisture in the air. Thx1
 
A rubber eraser should do the trick. Then lube the blade with some kind of oil, olive oil works good if you use the blade to cut food. Don't know about other users, but this has worked for me in the past doing little if any harm to the blade finish. Good luck.

Matador-
 
michelle_kde said:
I have an SNG - I carry IWB. I hadn't opened it in a few days there is now rust spots on both sides of blades! crap! :-( What can I use to clean it off. It's probably due to the humidity and moisture in the air. Thx1
Click to expand...

you must have very acidic sweat, I've never experienced any issue with the strider s30v and rust spotting even when used canoeing for a week.
 
contact strider...it's their product and w/ their warranty you should be in good shape.
 
Geetings Michell kde: If the rust is limited to small dot like spots on the blade sides then it most like due to water VAPOR CONDENSING on the surface of the unprotected steel. Larger patches of rust are most frequently caused by DIRECT physical contact with liquids or other moist materials. Matador's advise about using the eraser will work just fine. I suggest you use a pencil eraser not a pen eraser as some of them contain an abrasive grit which can scratch the surrounding finish. Flitz metal polish is also good but heavy use can also change the blade finish. The Stryder is a heavy duty knife and you may not be overly concerned with a pristine finish. Many people aren't but I don't know any knife nut that will tolerate rust. Carrying the knife next to your sweaty body (no offence intended) will expose the knife to rusting conditions from BOTH condensation and direct contact with moisture. Olive oil will work. It is food safe but is slightly acidic. Mineral oil is almost PH neutral and is also food safe. The underlying concept is to provide a moisture and air barrier between the steel and any source of corrosion. There are many synthetic products available that are not food safe but are superior to simple oils for both lubrication and rust inhibition. S30v is pretty good at resisting rust. Dust and other foreign material that sits on the blade due to lack of use will sponge up atmospheric moisture and hold it against the steel. Inactivity is not good for your knife. If you are daily carrying your SNG and are seeing rust spots on the blade sides then the odds are that the cutting edge is also experiencing the same condition. Its' just harder to see it. The micro serrations of the extreme edge may in fact be more prone to rust then the smooth surface of the sides. The edge is also subjected to having whatever you are cutting ground onto its surface . This material can also attract and hold moisture. Unless its' removed through use or otherwise this will reduce the cutting efficiency of what otherwise appears to be a well maintained and lightly used knife. This is just the observations of one old dude. YMMV OldDude1
 
Nope, never cut food w/ it. Your saying a pencil eraser can remove rust off metal?

Matador said:
A rubber eraser should do the trick. Then lube the blade with some kind of oil, olive oil works good if you use the blade to cut food. Don't know about other users, but this has worked for me in the past doing little if any harm to the blade finish. Good luck.

Matador-
Click to expand...
 
Iron oxide is very weak, the mild abrasive and rubbing forces of the eraser can bump and grind the oxide layer off.
 
Yes, it is the small dot like rust spots on both side of blade. I will follow your tips and maybe carry in pocket instead. Or maybe even look into a custom leather sheath from lifters leather, etc.


OldDude1 said:
Geetings Michell kde: If the rust is limited to small dot like spots on the blade sides then it most like due to water VAPOR CONDENSING on the surface of the unprotected steel. Larger patches of rust are most frequently caused by DIRECT physical contact with liquids or other moist materials. Matador's advise about using the eraser will work just fine. I suggest you use a pencil eraser not a pen eraser as some of them contain an abrasive grit which can scratch the surrounding finish. Flitz metal polish is also good but heavy use can also change the blade finish. The Stryder is a heavy duty knife and you may not be overly concerned with a pristine finish. Many people aren't but I don't know any knife nut that will tolerate rust. Carrying the knife next to your sweaty body (no offence intended) will expose the knife to rusting conditions from BOTH condensation and direct contact with moisture. Olive oil will work. It is food safe but is slightly acidic. Mineral oil is almost PH neutral and is also food safe. The underlying concept is to provide a moisture and air barrier between the steel and any source of corrosion. There are many synthetic products available that are not food safe but are superior to simple oils for both lubrication and rust inhibition. S30v is pretty good at resisting rust. Dust and other foreign material that sits on the blade due to lack of use will sponge up atmospheric moisture and hold it against the steel. Inactivity is not good for your knife. If you are daily carrying your SNG and are seeing rust spots on the blade sides then the odds are that the cutting edge is also experiencing the same condition. Its' just harder to see it. The micro serrations of the extreme edge may in fact be more prone to rust then the smooth surface of the sides. The edge is also subjected to having whatever you are cutting ground onto its surface . This material can also attract and hold moisture. Unless its' removed through use or otherwise this will reduce the cutting efficiency of what otherwise appears to be a well maintained and lightly used knife. This is just the observations of one old dude. YMMV OldDude1
Click to expand...
 
I've had a bead blasted SnG rust a little as well... It came off really easy with just soap and water and a wash cloth... no problem like it was never there. My new SnG is stonewashed and I have never had a problem... of course I have not carried it very much either... My Lg 21 seb gets most of the pocket time.
 
I suspect you have the striped blade?

I do also, and had rust spots (or freckles as I call them) develop on the blade. I carry in pocket, and found that the side of the blade that rests against my leg was the side developing the rust spots. Must be toxic sweat.

After researching, I found out that the bead blasting process Strider does to create the stripes opens pores in the steel, or creates small depressions where moisture can collect. This is where the spots occur.

I found 3 solutions:

1) Use the knife - cutting takes away the rust
2) Use a Mr Clean Magic Eraser - you can find these at any grocery or big box store. After wiping down the blade with the eraser, apply a thin coat of wax to the blade. depending on how much you use your knife - you may have to strip and re-coat the blade as frequently as weekly or every few months. Of course, this may not allow for food use. I did not buy my SnG for food prep / use. I use a high end car wax on mine - and apply a VERY THIN coat. This works well. You may wans to troll around and see what type of wax others are using.
3) After using Mr Clean Magic Eraser, oil the blade well. Oil / wipe down the blade right before you put it in your waistband (preferably daily). I keep an oil soaked rag in a baggie near my edc stuff so it only takes a few seconds to wipe down a blade.

My blade is tough as nails, and holds an edge forever, so I am convinced it is not a heat treat problem or faulty steel. I have really put mine thru its paces and it has performed flawlessly.

FYI - I have a Benchmade Hardtail 13100 D2 blade that develops rust spots more frequently than my SnG.
 
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