Strider / Spyderco Sharpmaker / Stropping Questions

[nyefmaker]

I figured I would just put this in general discussion as it will probably get more of the strider crowd involved as there is no longer a strider forum page...

I purchased a spyderco sharpmaker basic set + ultra fine rods a week or so ago and yesterday, I received my new ( pre owned ) strider SMF. I really like the strider and have been carrying it around the last 2 days. I want to put a good edge on it. I tried last night for a bit with the 40 degree rods ( medium, fine, ultra fine ) and came up with a decent edge, but nothing eye popping. I would like to know how much difference diamond rods would make ??? I did the sharpie trick. One side of the blade edge is perfect, the other towards the tip ( last 3/4" ) rides kinda high ( not too bad though ). I Do Not want to take too much steel off and do a back bevel. I want to leave the edge nice and heavy duty.

So after all of that, I guess I am asking how much would the diamond rods improve my edge on my strider smf and are they worth the investment ???

Also, I have never Stropped Before. How effective is this as I saw videos of people just doing it on an old belt ???

Any and ALL input would be Greatly Appreciated and I Thank All of You in advance.

 

[Ankerson]

I have 2 Strider SmF's and use a SHarpmaker, you have to get the edge profile correct before you move to the next grit stone. Stay with the lower grit untill all the grind lines are GONE and the edge looks perfect, I mean look down the edge on both sides until it's nice and even. Then moving up to the next grit until the edge shines and it will push cut paper. Move onto the Ultra fine until it will push cut newspaper. Don't worry about removing too much metal getting the edge profile correct.

I don't strop my edges, no need as I can get them Extremely sharp without it.

Edit:

I use the Diamond Rods to reprofile edges.

 

[nyefmaker]

I have 2 Strider SmF's and use a SHarpmaker, you have to get the edge profile correct before you move to the next grit stone. Stay with the lower grit untill all the grind lines are GONE and the edge looks perfect, I mean look down the edge on both sides until it's nice and even. Then moving up to the next grit until the edge shines and it will push cut paper. Move onto the Ultra fine until it will push cut newspaper. Don't worry about removing too much metal getting the edge profile correct.

I don't strop my edges, no need as I can get them Extremely sharp without it.

Edit:

I use the Diamond Rods to reprofile edges.

Do you use the 40 degree setting ??? My strider is a green SMF stonewashed with the regular flat grind. I will have to post pics later. I am new to the sharpmaker. I always used the regular round ceramic sticks ( similar to the sharpmaker ), but I have heard so many saying the sharpmaker is the best, so I got one and like it. I just want to learn how to best use it as it is a different type of sharpener than I am used to......

Also - Like I stated above, is it okay to work at a particular area ( last 1" of the blade point ) as one side is ground slightly different than the other and not completely uniform ??? I have done this on cheaper $30 knives, but never a $400 + knife.

 

[Ankerson]

Do you use the 40 degree setting ??? My strider is a green SMF stonewashed with the regular flat grind. I will have to post pics later. I am new to the sharpmaker. I always used the regular round ceramic sticks ( similar to the sharpmaker ), but I have heard so many saying the sharpmaker is the best, so I got one and like it. I just want to learn how to best use it as it is a different type of sharpener than I am used to......

Also - Like I stated above, is it okay to work at a particular area ( last 1" of the blade point ) as one side is ground slightly different than the other and not completely uniform ??? I have done this on cheaper $30 knives, but never a $400 + knife.

Yes I use the 40 degree setting.

I usually sharpen the whole edge until it evens out uniformly.

 

[bigbre]

I have been using a sharpmaker for a long time and I find that with patience and practice in can get extremely fine edges on my knives. Wish I had a strider tho haha. It might be worth practicing with some of your cheaper knives...I would try using aus 8 if you have it. It is very forgiving/fixable. Just my 2 cents

-alex

 

[dalefuller]

When I had my Strtiders I did them on my Sharpmaker at the 40 deg setting. All of my SnG's and my RCC required some rebeveling to make the Sharpmaker work for me, but I did it on an Edge Pro.

I strop all of my blades even though they are extremely sharp coming off of the UF Sharpmaker rods and I do find that it makes a slight difference in the edge. Also, once I get my blades to the point where stropping helps them, that's usually all I have to do to get my edge back, so it's a bit quicker and I'm not removing metal every time I need a touch up. I usually use a strop block from Knives Plus or a strop & green compound from Bark River.

 

[Ankerson]

When I had my Strtiders I did them on my Sharpmaker at the 40 deg setting. All of my SnG's and my RCC required some rebeveling to make the Sharpmaker work for me, but I did it on an Edge Pro.

I strop all of my blades even though they are extremely sharp coming off of the UF Sharpmaker rods and I do find that it makes a slight difference in the edge. Also, once I get my blades to the point where stropping helps them, that's usually all I have to do to get my edge back, so it's a bit quicker and I'm not removing metal every time I need a touch up. I usually use a strop block from Knives Plus or a strop & green compound from Bark River.

That's true sense Strider grinds the edges by hand at about 22.5 degrees + or - .5 degrees so it takes some work usually to get them the way you want them.

The UF rods as you said give an extremely sharp edge. :thumbup: