Strip & Tube Flare

Nuker

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Jun 22, 2024
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I had a Midnight Blue Fusion Silent Night with red/black machined G-10 handles I was considering stripping, since I had put it up for sale… and it didn’t sell.
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I had a can of BIX stripper that had recently started leaking & set it outside a couple months ago.
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I figured I might as well go for a strip.

Etched first…
I mixed hot water / salt in a shot glass. Dug a 9v battery out of my stud finder, and grabbed three Q-tips & some alligator ended test connectors from the garage. I used each end of the three Q-tips about 30-45 sec. Etch complete in about 4-5 mins.

15-20 mins after stripper applied, used plastic scraper. Here’s first pass:
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Second pass, and used brass wire brush:
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I started to use a green Scotch Brite, but wasn’t happy with how curved scrub marks were looking by the handle scallops. So, I decided the scales better come off. I screwed it down to a piece of wood, for drilling the tubes out.
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I used a 0.229” drill to thin the tube walls. Then a bigger one, I think 0.269” to get the flare to come off.

The scale didn’t want to come off, and I started to worry a bit about screwing up. I reached out to randucci randucci since he’d done this sort of thing before & had a great time meeting him about a month ago. He said to keep going & the tubes might be tough to get out.

I was also concerned about flaring. I had found a couple automotive pullers I thought I could bolt down & set up as a flaring jig.
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They have a nice 45 deg tip:
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Randucci had a better idea & he whipped up a set of custom flaring dies. There’s a few different tube sizes, so I should have my bases covered with these beauties!!
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These are the flaring dies that I bought. They are fine in my arbor press. Randucci's flaring dies look pretty fancy!

 
Getting the tubes out was a little work. After drilling & trying to punch the tubes out, one scale only lifted about 1/16”. I ended up using a wood chisel to drive in & pop scales off.

I had done most of the drilling from one side, and drilled about half way through. This left the tube wall thickness intact on the other side. I popped the scale off of the “weak” side. I was happy to have one tube side meatier, so I had something with some integrity to pull on with vise grips. Eventually they came out. Then I had to strip coating under the scales.
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With the coating softened up, I used a screw to poke/rub out the coating from talon/lanyard holes.
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Ready for next steps…
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Randucci said he had used a 4” Scotch wheel on some finishing efforts, so I went looking…
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And bought some 1/4 x 0.028” 304 seamless tubing.
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I ran through the different grits, but I think I’ll go a little more…
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I also ordered a variety pack of liner material.😉🍻
 

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These are the flaring dies that I bought. They are fine in my arbor press. Randucci's flaring dies look pretty fancy!

If 1/2” shank dies not desired… and 3/8” shank is… I found these ones. I thought they might sit ok in a 1/2” socket. My pullers are CJ86 & the ones below are for a different model, so I don’t know if it is 45 deg cone.
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I have tried the conical flares

But have found the flares with the post keeps things centered

also the post diameter is dependent on the wall thickness of the tubing.

I use a vise to flare the tubes, I think Busse uses a hydraulic press.

The stainless tubing Busse uses now is some hard stuff.

Be careful when drilling them out.

Long ago a fella did not clamp the blade when drilling out the tubes and had a pretty bad accident.
 
The stainless tubing Busse uses now is some hard stuff.

Be careful when drilling them out.

Long ago a fella did not clamp the blade when drilling out the tubes and had a pretty bad accident.
Thank you, David.
My drills went so easily… I thought the tubes were aluminum for a sec.

For everybody: Bolt down blade prior to drill.

The logo side is the safest. If drill grabs/blade helicoptered, back of blade is contact edge.
With right side of blade up, if drill grabs… sharp edge is contact edge.
 
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