Stripped 1311, CGFBM next...

DanR217

DanR217

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
1,732
Decided I wanted to try my 1311 without the coating to see the difference in how it sticks. Picked up some kleen strip and went at it. I've never done anything like this before, so I kinda felt my way through it. I learned it doesn't hurt to be generous with the stripper (hehehe) and I should have picked up a plastic scraper. Right after I had cleaned and dried it, I coated it with flitz gun and knife wax to help with the oxidation.

DSCF0001-5_zps05798728.jpg


DSCF0002-4_zps89cc497b.jpg


Looks really good, darker than I expected, but I don't care. I might blue it or give hand polishing with sand paper a go.

There's some weird squiggly lines that I can't quite figure out what their purpose is? Also, the area where the coating had already worn away must have fused with the metal with heat as it was very resistant to the stripping.

DSCF0003-3_zpsb81bbfd0.jpg


DSCF0004-1_zps9864cb7f.jpg


I haven't chopped with it yet, I feel a bit under the weather, but I think I might give it a go tomorrow, I'll keep ya posted. Oh, and the stripper didn't hurt the res-c at all.
 
Last edited:
Nice! :thumbup: :cool:

I've been waiting for someone to do this! If I am not mistaken (based on my stripper efforts), the reason it has a dark color is that there is a base layer of some sort of primer that helps the powder coat stick. I don't know if it is simply an acid etch or what, but my experience is that it has to be sanded or blasted away. That also explains the difference where the coating was stripped with use; I'm guessing you're down to the bare metal there. Get some scotch brite and have a go at the base layer for a nice satin finish!!! :D

My take on the squiggly lines (they're normal; I've seen this on a lot of raw SR-101) is that they're traction marks from the studded rollers used to draw the raw steel out of the furnace at the metal forgery. I could be wrong though?
 
I think that gray stuff is the decarb, and I believe, from previous posts, that it's exposure can expedite the presence of corrosion.
 
I have also heard that those squiggle marks may be part of a hardness testing process used on Busse Kin Blades at the factory.
 
g All you need is a single point to test hardness. Been a while since I was in a foundry but I dont remember seeing any steel with roll marks. Would kind of defeat the purpose of rolling to thickness if it was then gouged up.
 
I have stripped several coated knives. The grey subsurface on the infi did not rust, even when I swam in chlorinated pools with it, or in the river. I don't think it was decarb.

Bare Sr101 is not stainless by any means, so stripping it would expose it to rust if not cared for. No need for decarb for that.

On the coated blades, often, you will find rough machining marks under there. No need to pretty them up if you are just going to paint over. The epoxy coating will stick better to a rough surface as well.

If you get a piece of infi with decarb, it can be pretty darned aggressive for rust, but it is surface rust.

As some one who uses high carbon steel, I don't worry too much about rust. Just use it and enjoy it.

Looks great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top