Stripped clip screw on Crux

E

Ectogenesis

Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Messages
9
I would like to replace the clip on my Crux with a deep carry clip (Pops makes some pretty good ones), but the lower T6 screw holding the clip on is stripped. I've tried several things, including upgrading to a Wiha driver, using a rubber band to fill the gaps, and taking out the top screw and rotating the entire clip, but nothing has worked so far.

So now I am contemplating using a small cutting disk on my Dremel to cut into the top of the screw head so that I can use a flathead driver to remove the screw. The problem is, the screws are countersunk so I will end up damaging the pocket clip. I believe the clips will be available on massdrop in the future, so I could replace it later, even though the whole point of this would be to replace it with a deep carry clip anyway.

Before I try this, though, I wanted to see if there are any other suggestions as to how I can remove the stripped screw. Or should I not even try the Dremel to remove it? I believe I would only be risking the clip if I do.

vVsCVRs.jpg
 
One thing that might give a little more purchase is using a small flathead that fits in the threads or trying a hex driver that fits. I've had both work in the past, but they don't work 100% of the time.
 
If it’s any consolation, one of mine was real tough to get out as well.

FIRST: take the knife apart from the show side so you can see exactly what you’re dealing with from underneath. IIRC, one of those screws does more than just hold the clip (can’t remember which). In any event, it’ll be easier to just work on the one scale than the whole knife.

Make sure you heat everything as hot as possible with a hairdryer first (I’ve heard people even boil things for a few minutes) to compromise whatever factory threadlocker is there. That’s probably what’s killing you to begin with.

Otherwise, it’s hard to see how stripped it is from your picture. Can you get any purchase at all with a larger torx, a hex key, or anything else? If so, you could attempt to place the tool into the screw with a minuscule bit of red LockTite, letting it sit for a day, then giving it one last try. BUT BE WEARY if the “permanent” LockTite drifts around, it might make matters even worse. (Not to mention you’ll be out $7 for red LockTite that you may never use again.)

As such, your last ditch plan of sacraficing the clip might be easier. Once the Pop’s Clip goes on, you’ll never go back to the crappy OE clip anyway.

If you do cut a new screw head, make sure the scale is too hot to comfortably handle before you start twisting.

You’ll need LockTite for the pivot when it goes back together. I always use blue (medium) on pivots and purple (low strength) on T-6 screws, but that’s just me. Blue would probably be ok for everything. (Don’t use red!)

Best of luck to you! Let us know how it works out.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the replies! Some very useful information.

You are correct about the other clip screw; it goes all the way into the backspacer. Fortunately the stripped one's only job is to hold the clip on. I was able to otherwise fully disassemble the knife a little while back, when I cleaned it, lubed it (nano 10), and added a touch of blue Loctite to the pivot screw. I love the action on this thing, btw.

To add a little more information, I contacted Massdrop about this issue as soon as I noticed it and they were extremely helpful. They immediately sent a replacement knife. Seriously, kudos to them for their customer support. Unfortunately, I did not like the action on the replacement anywhere near as much as my original. I could see a noticeable difference in the size of the detent ball (at least the visible part) and it protruded quite a bit farther out of the lockbar. It still flipped open ok, but disengaging the lockbar was a real pain, since I had to push it a bit farther with my thumb. It probably wouldn't have been an issue for many people, but I really preferred the original, so I kept it, along with the stripped screw issue, and returned the replacement.

I will hunt around for a few more flatheads the might fit it in its current state, but I will likely just need to work up the courage to take the Dremel to it soon. I think I would prefer that over risking getting red Loctite down in there. I appreciate that suggestion, though.

Also, nice looking Crux! Which finish is that on the Pops clip? I am leaning towards a stonewashed one for my bronze Crux and potentially anodizing the clip later.
 
Ectogenesis said:
I would like to replace the clip on my Crux with a deep carry clip (Pops makes some pretty good ones), but the lower T6 screw holding the clip on is stripped. I've tried several things, including upgrading to a Wiha driver, using a rubber band to fill the gaps, and taking out the top screw and rotating the entire clip, but nothing has worked so far.

So now I am contemplating using a small cutting disk on my Dremel to cut into the top of the screw head so that I can use a flathead driver to remove the screw. The problem is, the screws are countersunk so I will end up damaging the pocket clip. I believe the clips will be available on massdrop in the future, so I could replace it later, even though the whole point of this would be to replace it with a deep carry clip anyway.

Before I try this, though, I wanted to see if there are any other suggestions as to how I can remove the stripped screw. Or should I not even try the Dremel to remove it? I believe I would only be risking the clip if I do.

vVsCVRs.jpg
Click to expand...

You could try super gluing a cheap small bit in there. Just use very little so it only gets in the drive slot and doesn’t overflow when you put the bit in. Hold it there until it dries.

Then just unscrew it. i believe there are chemicals like goo off or whatever that can dissolve the screw off after and get the screw off the driver.
 
If you have a soldering iron, you could try direct application of heat to the screw head. Sometimes the extra heat will free up a screw that a hairdryer and elbow grease alone won’t budge.

Good luck and good for Massdrop to send you a new knife in replacement.
 
Lapedog said:
You could try super gluing a cheap small bit in there. Just use very little so it only gets in the drive slot and doesn’t overflow when you put the bit in. Hold it there until it dries.

Then just unscrew it. i believe there are chemicals like goo off or whatever that can dissolve the screw off after and get the screw off the driver.
Click to expand...
Good idea! Acetone or nail polish remover will break down most cyanoacrylate super glues.
 
Hackenslash said:
Good idea! Acetone or nail polish remover will break down most cyanoacrylate super glues.
Click to expand...

I bet one could even leave the screw attatched to the bit, screw the bit back in, then dip the butt of the knife in acitone to dissolve the driver off.
 
E Ectogenesis my Pop’s clip is the plain mate Ti. One of these days my Crux is going to get a coffee can stonewash. I don’t like the 9 month pocket patina as well as I’d hoped. ;)
 
Before cutting the screw you could try getting a small set of reverse drills to try to back it out. Application of heat is definitely a plus.
 
use a quality driver and insert and give it a good whack on the driver back to break the loctite. not too hard. you dont want to cause other issues. try that.


last resort.......if whacking doesnt break the loctite....... then maybe cut a deeper slot.....carefully of course, in the screw so you can insert a flat head and see if you can get enough purchase. or some other driver shape to get deep enough to work loose. good luck and dont mess up your knife.
 
Glad it worked!
Looks like there’s tons of threadlocker on that itty-bitty T6.
 
I used a Dremel with the smallest cutting disc I had to cut a slot in the head of the screw. I used my wife's hair dryer to get it so hot I couldn't hold it bare handed, then used a flat head that went out past the clip on both sides, so it rotated the entire clip around with the screw as I unscrewed it. It still took a LOT of force to break the thread locker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top