Stripped ganza jack and crash axe pics

0

05dr

Joined
Nov 25, 2005
Messages
150
Just finished stripping a ganza jack i had gotten and figured i would take some paint off the crash rat while i was at it. the finish on these guys is obviously nothing fancy and i have already scratched them up a fair bit... Since taking the coating off they both chop/slice with much less resistance and are a million times easier to clean. this was also my first foray into stropping and the satin jack is by far the sharpest knife i have ever used.


axejackstrip.jpg

axejackcrop2.jpg


jackteethcloseup.jpg

jackteeth.jpg


while the crash rate was as easy to take the coating off of as all the prior threads had implied the satin jack was a huge pain. although i havn't seen them on other stripped knives mine was covered with machining holes all over the grind of the blade, in contrast to the "infi dimples" present on other portions of the knife. these were a huge pain and made it necessary to move down to 220 grit paper at one point to remove them. the pic below shows what i am referring to (i had already put in some sanding time when i took this shot):

197_9707.jpg


while i didn't really care about the "looks" these holes caused the knife to rust almost instantly with any moisture... regardless, i'm really happy with the results.
ryan
 
05dr said:
while i didn't really care about the "looks" these holes caused the knife to rust almost instantly with any moisture... regardless, i'm really happy with the results.
ryan
Click to expand...


I had the same problems with my Hell Razor that I stripped. I definitely is worth it to put some sanding time into them to remove those pits. I knife will be much more stain resistant. :thumbup:
 
I bought a few months ago a stripped HR and had the same problem. Without any moisture it began to rust in the INFI dimples and the corrugated bevel. I didn't really care about because it was a user. After I cleaned it, I sprayed a layer of ballistol oil on it and never had the problem again.
 
05dr said:
Just finished stripping a ganza jack i had gotten and figured i would take some paint off the crash rat while i was at it. the finish on these guys is obviously nothing fancy and i have already scratched them up a fair bit...
Click to expand...
05dr,
the exposed metal on that crash rat is Nice.
How did you remove coating while leaving such a defined line behind?
 
About every 3 months my hogsjtac rusts near the edge in my sheath, just because it never really see's use, and the sheath hold moisture pretty well (at least, it does if you let it sit there for 3 months :D)

But it comes off very easily with the rough side of a green scotch brite dish sponge.

Also consider that if the pits are still filled with powder coat, that will add some level of pretection to that area.
 
Hmm, INFI rusted??

Got pics??
Click to expand...

i don't have any pics.... it occured right after stripping when i had wiped it down well but left it sitting in the tub with the window open. the sudden difference in temp caused a thin coating of moisture and in <30 minutes it had a very thin coating of bright orange over the milled portion (more than the infi dimple area). at first i wondered if it had just been the infi dust that rusted but wipedown with a towel didn't remove any of it. came off right away with light sanding. then when i took pics in the snow the same thing happened again which was at about 40% of the sanding done and actually after mineral oil wipedown. since i finished it absolutely no rust even when i set it down moist.... in both cases i was agast at my precious having any rust on it and addressed the issue immediately and without even thinking of grabbing a camera.

How did you remove coating while leaving such a defined line behind?
Click to expand...

i used duct tape and a plant hanger as a guide for the curve (line drawn on to the duct tape). i initially was going to use the line where the blade begins to slope down but it was a little to gentle for my taste. i cut along my line with a scalpel. the duct tape held but i had to be a bit careful. the first time i did it was a strait line ~1/2 " from the edge but i didn't like it (sorry, no pics). on the axe i only used sandpaper and no stripper. The busse coating clogs paper like no tomorrow and i had to use 220 grit automotive sandpaper which i then to up to 400/600 briefly.
ryan
 
Very interesting that so many people that have removed the finish have had so much trouble with rust. I am very surprised. Makes we think that a small fixed blade in INFI may not be the best for me.
 
Honestly, this is the first I've heard of serious rust problems with INFI. My Assault Shaker is holding up fine without any rust at all!
 
Jan, good to see ya back bud.

I have a lot of INFI, and no problems with corrosion at all.

Interesting...
 
Mr. Hamguy :D ,
you're absolutely right, it's been a long while since I last posted here. I started looking at Busses again just recently. Unfortunately, the current supply situation is NOT working in my favor. I'll send you a PM tonight after work, I need to ask you a few things. Later, Jan
 
It's very weird as I had it only on the stripped HR. On my satin SFNO's I've never had corrosion...
 
It's very weird as I had it only on the stripped HR. On my satin SFNO's I've never had corrosion...
Click to expand...
it would seem the examples mentioned in this thread all occured in areas where the finish under the coating may have been different than "standard flat" i.e. ruffles/dimples/machining... while this obviously doesn't reflect anything of busses as sold i do wish they offered a rudimentary satin finish as a standard option. By rudimentary i really mean something basic and not at all "pretty".

as a side note, i can't even describe how much of a difference my work on the penetrator tip of the crash axe made. with the factory grind i only rarely was able to lodge it it wood, and was fairly susceptable to dammage. after thinning it to 40 degrees and smoothing the edge on a strop it easily penetrated 1-1.5" and would firmly lodge into the target object which would allow me to twist and split the wood. while this same profile might not work as well for crashing into hard targets such as concrete or steel it was a massive improvement for my uses. truthfully, the edge has been much more stable without chips/rolls since i made the changes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top