Stripped pivot screw head, any tips?

Lost Cosmonaut

Lost Cosmonaut

Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
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Hey all, I have an all Ti Viper Vox Odino and when trying to adjust the pivot screw, the head stripped out and now I can't get it out. The torx socket is completely rounded. I also have a G10 and a CF version of the Vox Odino and their pivot screws were tight but I was able to overcome the Loctite without issues. For some reason, this one seems like they put Loctite red in it. I emailed Viper and I'm SOL, they keep telling me to return it to the retailer and that I'm using bad torx drivers or the wrong size (I use Wiha drivers and used the same size as my other Odinos). Problem is, I bought it second hand so getting it back to the retailer is not as cut and dried as it would seem. They refuse to sell me a new pivot screw, or even take the knife back for repairs (I would gladly pay, and told them so), so I'm going to try to extract it and see if I can find a similarly sized screw to work (Ultimately I'll probably just end up buying another all-Ti and use this one as a parts donor to keep all three going), but I'm at a loss as to how I can extract it without doing more damage.
 
If you have a dremmel, cut a slot into the screw and use a flathead to get it out. I have had to do this a couple of times and it worked well.
That sucks that the company won't help you out!
 
Try the rubber band trick, put a wide rubber band over the opening then your driver on top and see if that does the trick.
 
Did the same like Ernie and it works but the rubber band trick from cchu I'll try first next time.
Heating the red locktite might help. Soldering iron touching the screw for a while might losen it up a bit.
Maybe even a strong solvent (haven't tried that yet) like nail polish remover but make sure it doesn't drip on any plastic parts.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
Did the same like Ernie and it works but the rubber band trick from cchu I'll try first next time.
Heating the red locktite might help. Soldering iron touching the screw for a while might losen it up a bit.
Maybe even a strong solvent (haven't tried that yet) like nail polish remover but make sure it doesn't drip on any plastic parts.
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Definitely have to heat it, I know that with red Loctite it doesn't release until around 500 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the type. It strikes me as really odd that all my other Odinos had no problem, but this one gave trouble when the only difference is the handle scales.
 
Maybe an easy-out would be your best bet.Since the head's already stripped hopefully you could find one with the same thread. I'm surprised they used the red. Good luck.
 
I would try heat followed quickly by a left hand drill. If you don't use a lot of pressure, the drill may snag the screw and back it out.
 
......try this on for starters.

ANY company that doesn't stand behind their product(barring some of the ridiculous abuse some of these crazy kids perpetrate) does not deserve your business.

Hopefully there is a lesson in there somewhere for you, but I somehow doubt it.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
If you are sure that the Torx bit you are using is the correct size then grind a mm or two off the tip. Heat the screw with a soldering iron as suggested then try the shortened Torx bit. Sometimes the Torx bit can get a grip od the remaining splines no matter how rounded they seem. A small dab of valve grinding paste doesn't go amiss to help the bit to grip the head. The idea of cutting a slot and using a normal screwdriver is a good one but try heating the screw to break down the red Loctite.
Good luck
 
Heat, Left Hand Drill Bit (sized appropriately for eazy-out), then easy-out. Chances are it will release when drilling as tiguy7 posted.

Also are you sure the head of the pivot is a Torx. I have knives that have socket heads that look like Torx, but are not (Hex, Double-Square, Triple-Square, Polydrive, Spline Drive, Double Hex, Bristol, Pentalobular, torx & Torx Plus, not to mention Torx that are sometimes slightly under & over sized ...)?

Additionally, driver tips occasionally need to be "dressed" (filed flat) and replaced when worn. I can't tell you how many driver I have seen folks using that were worn out, effectively messing up every screw they came in contact with until all of a sudden "it just stripped for no reason" when upon close inspection many of the fastener heads are actually damages from worn bits. I would not start badmouthing a manufacturer without actually seeing the tool under magnification (to see how damaged it may actually be).

No disrespect to the OP, and I hope an easy solution presents itself.

Regards,
 
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You've already gotten a lot of good advice on dealing with a stripped pivot. As far as finding a replacement screw if/when you get it out, if the entire pivot is buggered you might be able to find a replacement pivot assembly that will work from one of the many knife parts vendors there are online. They sell a variety of pivots, and they aren't expensive.

I often buy knife parts and supplies from Knifekits.com, and recently I tried USAKnifemakerSupply.com and had a very good experience.

Good luck.
 
Lost Cosmonaut said:
Definitely have to heat it, I know that with red Loctite it doesn't release until around 500 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the type. It strikes me as really odd that all my other Odinos had no problem, but this one gave trouble when the only difference is the handle scales.
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That is not true at all, and certainly not the type used in folders. The knives are designed to be serviced at some point, not be pinned construction, immovable fasteners. SInce they refused to hook you up with a new pivot, that might just have cut a lot of their business. I think just about any company (except this one) will either give you, sell you, or do a repair for a customer. Kind of lame if that was their response. Also, Spey hit the nail on the head. Companies use all sort of fasteners, not all are torx.
 
It was definitely torx, it's exactly the same as my two other Odinos. They both had liberal amounts of thread lock but I was able to defeat them with a little extra pressure, no idea why this one wouldn't release, that's why I'm wondering if it didn't get a different thread lock type somehow. I'm not 100% blaming the company, it was my boneheaded move (I don't know when to give up, it was also right after the Seahawks had SB49 stolen from them, so I may have been a little frustrated as well). I bought the knife second hand as well, I don't always expect a company to bend over backwards for me when I buy something second hand, especially because it's possible the previous owner took it apart and put a different kind of thread lock in it. It is a little disappointing that they wouldn't even just sell me a pivot. I also suspect that there may be the language barrier being an issue as well.

I haven't had a chance to get back at it yet, it's sitting in my toolbox ready to go. This weekend I may have time to play around with it, I will let everyone know how it goes.

I have other knives that use red thread lock, namely my Guardian Tactical Helix. The only other time I've stripped a pivot was when I overtorqued one of my Quartermaster knives overzealously putting it back together. They were more than happy sending me a new one without even any questions.
 
Well technically the 'hawks gave it away but this is not the right place for that sort of chat. Wonder if a super screw business is a viable Secondary knife business?
 
@LostCos. I find many times the best thing to do, when presented with a frustrating problem, is to set it aside for a little while (as you have done). I could not imagine working on a problem as SEA chose not to give the ball to Marshawn and just let the machine work into the enzone (but again not the place to discuss here). Just a simply reference to not problem solving when any frustration is present. When lock-tite is involved, Slow Steady Pressure combined with properly dressed driver is the answer. I have persoanly never needed heat on stainless knife fasteners (worked on a number of pivots with red lock-tite. Lock-tite strength is significant less than they specify when applied to stainless fasteners (even when the stainless prep primer is used). Highly suggest >> Left hand drill bit then easy-out with slow consistent pressure and you may be able to save the pivot and only need to replace the screw make sure to use the correct sized bit & that you drill the exact center of the screws core. Go low speed with drilling and watch for the screw to start releasing as you drill, the drilling builds heat and any times the fastener begins backing out as you are drilling (paying attention many times results early rewards) ;-)
 
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So, I've found an acceptable replacement screw so this is good. Now I just have to figure out how to get the old screw out.

An M4-.70x4mm screw works just fine, thank goodness!
 
sometimes, I can take the next size larger size torx and tap it into the screw head and that will do it. need to lay it on something solid to get the bit to seat like it should.
 
Lost Cosmonaut said:
So, I've found an acceptable replacement screw so this is good. Now I just have to figure out how to get the old screw out.

An M4-.70x4mm screw works just fine, thank goodness!
Click to expand...

How did you go about figuring out which screw you needed? I am in a similar situation and am looking to source my own pivot screw.
 
^just buy a cheap set of pitch gauges to measure your old screw, or drop by a local ace hardware and compare them to off the shelf screws.
 
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