Recommendation? Stripped Screws on M4 CF Para

S

shotcaller88

Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
151
I received my flytanium copper scales a few days ago. I had a few minutes today and tried taking apart a nib m4 carbon fiber para 2. I got one screw out, but the opposing screw just spins. The other set of screws would just spin and I couldn't get them out (even with two torx screwdrivers). I was able to get the pivot screws out without damage, but the others are done.
Can anyone please recommend someone reliable, that I can send the para, flytanium scales and replacement screws and have them fix my mess? I don't mind paying for the service, but I'm just done with this.
I've disassembled a few blades before including a user black/s30v para2 and a lum. They went pretty smooth. Not sure how I botched this relatively simple task, but definitely plan to buy a quality torx set for the future.
 
Perhaps try a better torx driver set. I had a cheap one from lowes that stripped out the screws on one of my Millies because of soft metal on the bits.
I got a nice little set from Blade hq, and have had zero trouble with this issue ever since.
Best of luck.
 
In the mean time, send it in to Spyderco. Obviously they won't put the new scales on for you, but they will remove the stripped screws and install new ones for you. I had a brown s35vn para that I bought used, the previous owner stripped every screw on it. Spyderco replaced them, took about 10 days total.
 
Leftytwogunz said:
Perhaps try a better torx driver set. I had a cheap one from lowes that stripped out the screws on one of my Millies because of soft metal on the bits.
I got a nice little set from Blade hq, and have had zero trouble with this issue ever since.
Best of luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. That's a good idea. I'll have to send it in.
 
Leftytwogunz said:
Perhaps try a better torx driver set. I had a cheap one from lowes that stripped out the screws on one of my Millies because of soft metal on the bits.
I got a nice little set from Blade hq, and have had zero trouble with this issue ever since.
Best of luck.
Click to expand...

Another trick that sometimes works is going up one size. If a T6 recess is stripped, try a T7. You may need a full set of small Torx drivers rather than the sets that are generally sold to be able to do that.
 
Sorry to hear what happened. Sounds like you’ll need to send the knife in.

As far as decent torx bits, this company was recommended to me a while back. I placed an order for a few different sizes last week. They are quality bits and for as low as $.98 for a 2 pack, you can’t go wrong.

https://www.wihatools.com/torx-insert-bit-2-pack
 
You have to expect screws to strip and apply adequate pressure. I use Walmart torx and it's all good.
 
Send it to Spyderco and make sure to tell them not to put any locktite on the screws. It's an option, they will do it for you. It's also a good idea to have a heat gun around to loosen up the Locktite in future endeavors.
 
I recently sent a PM2 back because I had dropped it while taking it apart and lost the pivot bushing (I am sure I will find it someday long from now on my garage floor). When it came back with the new bushing the screw in the pivot bushing came loose and fell out because they no longer use red Loctite due to complaints from customers. She said you damned if you do and damned if you don't. They sent me a couple of new screws and suggested I use a little dab of blue. I am not sure why they just don't use the blue loctite from the beginning.
 
I had the same issue with a Slysz Bowie. The previous owner had stripped and had made a mess out of the show side (right handed) pivot tore screw with copious gobs of blue loctite meaning that nothing else suggested on here (rubber band trick, heat, larger flathead or larger tore bit) was moving the darn thing and I didn't wish to use anything until I came across this which was posted by someone else on here. Although YMMV, I picked up one one these which worked perfectly for my purposes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCTJYGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately the Big River Site does not currently show this tool in stock but you may be able to get it elsewhere for the $28 retail price. Good luck.
 
emjay4248 said:
Send it to Spyderco and make sure to tell them not to put any locktite on the screws. It's an option, they will do it for you. It's also a good idea to have a heat gun around to loosen up the Locktite in future endeavors.
Click to expand...
Soldering iron works well for this too.
 
emjay4248 said:
I find that alot of times it works on the small body screws but not so much on larger pivot screws. It just makes it easier an quicker and the gun is pretty cheap and always good to have on hand.
Click to expand...
I've only tried with the soldering iron. It came with a few other screw in tips. I chose the pointiest tip and it worked on the pivot. The pivot was full of red loctite. That being said, it took me holding the iron on each side for a few minutes until it finally let go. The soldering iron was dirt cheap tho. I never even thought of a heat gun. Figure it wouldn't be localized enough and maybe melt the g10. hopefully there won't be a next time, I'll try a heat gun if there is.
 
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