Stripped screws solutions?

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Howdy,

I have had problems unscrewing both pivots and standoff screws with the screws stripping completely out. I'd had to drill out a couple screws and try to find aftermarket parts to fit. Any ideas on how to avoid this, ways to deal with a stripping screw, or how to get stripped screws out?

Thanks much.
 
Hello and welcome to BladeForums!

My suggestion for at least preventing it in the future is to buy a quality set of torx bits that are hardened and make sure to use the proper size or they'll strip pretty easily. I'm sure other members will give you suggestions on removal besides using a larger size bit or using heat to help loosen loctite.
 
I had the same problem, buy yourself some quality torx made by Wiha, those are the best, the wont bend or warped, also dont overtighten the screws,
 
I work in the automotive industry and the trick of super cooling the screws before removal works on knives as well. Loctite as well as others makes a product that you spray on the screw or pivot that freezes it and in the process temporarily slightly shrinks the metal just enough to make it easier to remove.
 
1) Get WIHA tools. A T6, T8, and T10 will cover 99% of your needs.

2) If a screw seems tight don't force it. Spray some penetrating lube on the screw. Then I touch the screw with my soldering iron at it's highest temp for a minute or so to release the locktite

3) If a screw strips, the easiest way I've found of removing the head is to cut a slit in the head with my dremel and then I can use a flat head screwdriver to turn it out.
 
I work in the automotive industry and the trick of super cooling the screws before removal works on knives as well. Loctite as well as others makes a product that you spray on the screw or pivot that freezes it and in the process temporarily slightly shrinks the metal just enough to make it easier to remove.

Psssssst....good ol' cheap butane !
 
So either make the screw very hot or very cold, correct? Also, why the torx pit matters that much in this case? It is the screw that got stripped not the pit. What am I missing?
 
So either make the screw very hot or very cold, correct? Also, why the torx pit matters that much in this case? It is the screw that got stripped not the pit. What am I missing?

They probably thought you meant the head of the screw got stripped? Are you using the right size? Tightening too far? Most here like loc tite but I like taking a new knife apart and putting a drop of oil on pivot screw threads. I've never lost one and very rarely do I ever have to tighten it and I check every night. Then it comes off easier in future and as long as you check it every few days it's fine. Again make sure its biggest size that fits the screw head.
 
So either make the screw very hot or very cold, correct? Also, why the torx pit matters that much in this case? It is the screw that got stripped not the pit. What am I missing?

The problem with cheap torx tools/ bits is that they are not hardened. When you need to apply force to open a screw, even when you use the right size, the tool itself starts to bend out of shape and that in turn strips the screw head.
 
I work in the automotive industry and the trick of super cooling the screws before removal works on knives as well. Loctite as well as others makes a product that you spray on the screw or pivot that freezes it and in the process temporarily slightly shrinks the metal just enough to make it easier to remove.

As do I. ASE certified Master tech with over 10 years of experience. I must say, however, that I've never heard of this before. In fact, I do just the opposite. Good old torch.
 
I see two issues being discussed- 1. How to remove stripped screws. 2. How to prevent screws from stripping.

There are several methods for removing stripped screws. I've worked on other peoples knives after they have stripped the screws and have used a few of these methods. First, you have to assume that the screw is "loctited" in place. As others have mentioned, heat is an effective way of loosening loctite. I use a soldering iron like Spinny described earlier.

The method I use to remove any particular screw is determined by the type of screw, and how deeply is is set in the knife. On some occasions, when an allen socket screw was stripped I was able to loosen it by forcing a torx or flat head driver bit into the socket hole, and pushing in hard while turning.

If that doesn't work, there are tools specifically designed for removing stripped screws (EZ-OUTS) that work in a power drill.

If the screw is a button head, and if the head is above the rest of the knife, I will sometimes cut a slot across the head with a needle file so I can turn it with a flat head driver.

Another trick for removing stripped screws is, instead of trying to turn the screw itself, you remove all the other screws in the knife and then turn the various layers of the knife (liners, handles). Basically the layers of the knife act as a sort of "friction wrench". Sometimes this works, sometimes not.

As far as avoiding stripping screws, like mentioned earlier- apply heat, and use a quality driver bit. I NEVER touch the screw of a knife installed at the factory without first applying heat.I always assume there is loctite. Taking a moment to pull out the soldering iron and applying a minute of heat is a lot less trouble than dealing with a stripped screw. An ounce of prevention...

Besides knives, I've been working on motorcycles for 30 years, and a torch is an essential piece of equipment for loosening/removing seized bolts.
 
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You can glue a bit into the stripped screw with JB-weld or 20 min epoxy, let it set for the recommended time, and slowly apply pressure. Its a slow way, but can be helpful for delicate work,
 
I work in the automotive industry and the trick of super cooling the screws before removal works on knives as well. Loctite as well as others makes a product that you spray on the screw or pivot that freezes it and in the process temporarily slightly shrinks the metal just enough to make it easier to remove.

A can of air (office supply) used upside down will freeze really well.
 
I just remembered another trick for preventing stripped screws- sometimes allen head socket screws are not as precisely made as they should be, and that can cause the bit to fit loose in the socket. This can cause stripping, especially if the screw is soft and/or loctited in place. In those situations I wrap the bit with a piece of aluminum foil or mylar to fill the excess space. On one occasion when I was away from home I used a piece of a foil potato chip bag with success.

This method can also sometimes work to remove screws with stripped heads.

On a related note, I think there can be big differences between removing seized bolts on a vehicle, and removing the screws of a knife. With a knife, heat is applied directly to the screw to soften the loctite. On a vehicle, heat is applied to the part that the bolt is threaded into to expand the part, but not directly to the bolt. And it's just the opposite with using cold on a vehicle- the cold is applied to the bolt to make it shrink.

Of course, loctite is used on vehicles and heat may need to be applied directly to a bolt to release it.

As far as using cold on the screw of a knife, I'm not sure what effect that will have on loctite. If the cold could be applied directly to the screw it might shrink it enough to break it free from the loctite, but knife screws tend to be pretty small, and trying to apply cold (or heat) directly to the screw and not the surrounding area could prove difficult.

Bolts on vehicles typically become seized from intense and prolonged heat and corrosion. It's unlikely that a knife screw would become seized in such a manner.
 
Heat simply softens the Loctite. It has nothing to do with shrinking/expanding metal.
 
I've had two Kershaw knives I've wanted to switch the pocket clip orientation, but could not get the screws to budge. Used the correct bit. After so much trying they stripped.
 
Thanks everyone for the info. I've got a kershaw with a stripping screw now, gonna heat it up and see what happens!
 
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