Stripping A Busse Knife

adrock2864

Gold Member
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Feb 27, 2012
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I just bought a Busse NMSFNO here on the Forum. I got a really nice price because the coating is messed up. Is there a thread some where or can someone tell me what chemical is best for stripping the coating & where do I get it. Is there a step by step post or anything?? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Adrock
 
Adrock2864,

I've asked for your thread to be moved to the Busse discussion forum where you will find good answers to your questions. This forum is for BladeForums site service & support. :) Hang tight, it should be moved shortly.
 
I've used auto paint thinners in the past. Work really well. It comes off easy with an old tooth brush.
 
Here you go, a thread I started a year and a half ago with the same question

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-Strippin?highlight=tips+strippin""

That gel stipper works great, used it on a NMSFNO and a FFBM. But, wear gloves, it's nasty shite.

Just leave it on for 2-10 minutes, depending on coating, any hardware store should have it. After you strip it, it's up to you how shiney you want it to get.


Oh, we need pics dammit :D
 
The finish on the blade, once you remove the coating, will rust overnight. To prevent rust you will want to remove that layer. As you remove the layer of carborization you may find some vertical milling marks on the blade. It will take either a belt sander or a quite a bit of elbow grease to remove those. You may also find "infi dimples," small pits on the flats of the blade. More elbow grease will be required to remove those. A satin or finer finish should be a very user friendly finish in terms of rust. I removed the coating form a SAR5 and once I had the finish that I wanted I hit the blade with some automotive wax. You can find the paint remover at Home Depot or Lowes.
 
Killians Irish red, atleast its good for something :barf:

Havnt you stripped a bunch of beauties already? ****<whoops, wrong adrock

Welcome to the forums!
 
I got the knife today. It is an NMSFNO that had the green coating. Someone trashed the finish chopping fire wood and I want to bring it back. It is a really awesome feeling knife. Is there a post here about getting a nice satin finish? I have every tool known to man. Disc sanders, belt sanders, buffing wheels on 2 different grinder/polishers. I just don't want to screw up this great piece of INFI. Thanks for your help.
 
I got the knife today. It is an NMSFNO that had the green coating. Someone trashed the finish chopping fire wood and I want to bring it back. It is a really awesome feeling knife. Is there a post here about getting a nice satin finish? I have every tool known to man. Disc sanders, belt sanders, buffing wheels on 2 different grinder/polishers. I just don't want to screw up this great piece of INFI. Thanks for your help.

Easy on that, man... don't go all Tim Taylor with that fine blade. Less is more. Take your time...

My experience stripping the same knife is far different than HLEE's experience. The only rust I've ever seen on infi was in the 'competition series' knives a few years back... and that was due to the decarb layer. It caused some light surface rust. With that exception, I've never had a rust issue with INFI...and I've stripped a whole bunch of em.

Here's a pic of my nmfsno gettin nekkid!

IMG_2595.jpg


It seems to have some kind of a 'primer' layer under the coating... a dark grey. I think it looks uber cool. :D

IMG_2603.jpg


See???!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cool... right?!!!

I have spent hours and hours trying to make infi shiny and pretty. But at the end of the day, I have come to the conclusion that Busse's arent supposed to be pretty. They are supposed to be USED! And that means.. they should look more like these:

IMG_0202.jpg


One day, this one will get nekked too. But not today. I like the way she slowly reveals a bit more skin every time I show her love... yeah. :cool:

B11Baton.jpg



My advice is to strip em... but don't try to make em purty. It's just not in their DNA. ;)




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Stripped a SAR 5 the other day;/ Step 1, paintstripper./ Step 2, off with the coating, did use a non metallic scraper./ Step 3, warm water and a wasable nonwoven sheet, grit 350./ Step 4, WD-40 and another nonwovwn sheet, grit 1500.'

The final result was lovely; a nice userfrendly metall finish, nice INFI dimples and all the metall in its pure beauty!

Sorry no pictures (Yes, i know the rules).:D:D:D

H
 
Killians Irish red, atleast its good for something :barf:

Havnt you stripped a bunch of beauties already? ****<whoops, wrong adrock

Welcome to the forums!
Lol! I did double take too. I thought, what the!? Oh... anyway, if you want any more pics or info, I've posted quite a few stripper threads. I'm all about stripping beauties.
 
Ahhh the first Adrock. Thanks for the tips. One more question, mask the handles or don't bother. I have seen both in different threads.
 
I never bother, but I just strip the blade down to the plung line. I definitely wouldn't worry about the scales themselves, but I like having coating under the scales and I don't care what it looks like so I don't strip the handle/tang
 
After trying it once, I felt that masking the handles was a major pain, and not worth the trouble.
 
With a belt sander and using a fine linishing belt you can develop a nice satin finish on your stripped NMSFNO ... the curved convex grind on the blade is ideally suited to use with a belt ... but you need to keep the tension tight ... I often glue a patch of leather hide to a platten and position this behind the belt to enable the areas of the blade near the top of the spine to be done without losing metal on the spine. The lower part of the blade I simply polish into a fully convex zero grind and then strop the blade to finish off the edge to a razor sharpness.



P1010026.jpg


Here is a pic of the knife when finally finished with a factory satin finish on the FSH Variant above ....


P1010027.jpg
 
I have done several threads as well on this. In short, I've stripped in the neighborhood of 20 pieces of INFI by hanging the knife by one of the holes in the pommel and spraying it with Jasco Paint & Epoxy Stripper (No Masking), and then using a small brass brush in the tight spots while rinsing off with water. Repeat as necessary.
 
How do you deal with the tang? Do you remove the micarta/G10? What's the trick there?
 
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