Stripping a "First Production Run" tweener

NCSlice

NCSlice

Joined
Feb 22, 2015
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3,599
I don't have one in hand yet but the BK17 is expected to arrive tomorrow. I'm assuming the FPR logo and signature are laser etched and can be acid/battery etched.

Can anyone confirm this?

As always... Pics are welcomed!

I have a hard time with pristine discontinued blades so I'm not sure this will happen. If it can all be etched deeper then I'm one step closer to doing it!
 
The logo and signature on the FPR's are laser engraved by SMKW. They are much deeper than Kabars new laser engraved markings. They are very obvious after stripping but I think you could etch them a little cleaner and deeper if that's what you wanted to do. SMKW made 1000 of each kind so I wouldn't be to worried about messing up something rare.

Here is a picture of FPS BK16 owned by wasatch dan that I think looks pretty good. Its been stripped, etched and blued.

DSCN0133.jpg
 
Thanks B! That's the exact info and pic I was looking for. Not too worried about the FPR as long as the sig stays and that one looks great!

Even though it's pretty much answered...don't let that deter y'all from contributing...esp more pics!
 
I used ferric chloride for the initial etch to darken the metal. The petroleum jelly resist I used on the edge is what gave the FPR 16 that hamon-like line near the secondary bevel. After that I used the blue/bleach etch along the flats of the blade to eat away some of that godawful FPR engraving. This was only my third try at Cliching a knife (that's what Beckerheads called the strip/blue/bleach etch/convex mod a few years back), and I would do things today that I didn't do back then, especially making sure the temperature was up over 75 degrees. I did this in around 40 degree weather, and neither the ferric chloride nor the bleach ate away quite as much metal as I would have liked because of the cold. Warm temperatures work better. The Saber-16 still turned out pretty good, but I've done better since.







 
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Thanks guys! Now that I have it I'm not sure I want to strip it lol. The scales go really good with the black.
I still plan on FC etching the sig tho. If I decide to strip it I'll be a step ahead.

 
My heavens Wasatch, that second.. ah.. thing looks like PIXAR animated a knife! Faaaantastic!

I think I agree with you Sliceman. The wood looks choice with the slick coating. 17s do look bloody cool stripped though. Keep me posted dude. I've seen your other work and I'm sure you'll do a top job on this one too..
 
Say his name and he appears! Nice etching Dan. NCSlice, I agree. That looks great like it is. I would leave it alone until I scratch it up enough to start thinking about stripping it again.
 
NCSlice said:
Thanks guys! Now that I have it I'm not sure I want to strip it lol. The scales go really good with the black.
I still plan on FC etching the sig tho. If I decide to strip it I'll be a step ahead.

Click to expand...

Sure is a purty tweener . . .

:D
 
wasatchdan said:
I used ferric chloride for the initial etch to darken the metal. The petroleum jelly resist I used on the edge is what gave the FPR 16 that hamon-like line near the secondary bevel. After that I used the blue/bleach etch along the flats of the blade to eat away some of that godawful FPR engraving. This was only my third try at Cliching a knife (that's what Beckerheads called the strip/blue/bleach etch/convex mod a few years back), and I would do things today that I didn't do back then, especially making sure the temperature was up over 75 degrees. I did this in around 40 degree weather, and neither the ferric chloride nor the bleach ate away quite as much metal as I would have liked because of the cold. Warm temperatures work better. The Saber-16 still turned out pretty good, but I've done better since.







Click to expand...

What is the knife featured in the second pic down?

Survivormind
 
Thanks, fellas.

The second knife down is the Blackhawk Tatang. Very good knife and surprisingly affordable. Comes double edged from the factory. It's primarily a fighting knife but could work as a decent bush knife in a pinch.
 
wasatchdan said:
I used ferric chloride for the initial etch to darken the metal. The petroleum jelly resist I used on the edge is what gave the FPR 16 that hamon-like line near the secondary bevel. After that I used the blue/bleach etch along the flats of the blade to eat away some of that godawful FPR engraving. This was only my third try at Cliching a knife (that's what Beckerheads called the strip/blue/bleach etch/convex mod a few years back), and I would do things today that I didn't do back then, especially making sure the temperature was up over 75 degrees. I did this in around 40 degree weather, and neither the ferric chloride nor the bleach ate away quite as much metal as I would have liked because of the cold. Warm temperatures work better. The Saber-16 still turned out pretty good, but I've done better since.







Click to expand...

SWEET STEEL

Oh so much need to start modding and stop buying, F_CK THAT BOTH

THANKS FOR SHARING

SLICE HAS HIS BLADE SOAKING AFTER SEEING THOSE


KEEP EM SHARP
 
wasatchdan said:
Thanks, fellas.

The second knife down is the Blackhawk Tatang. Very good knife and surprisingly affordable. Comes double edged from the factory. It's primarily a fighting knife but could work as a decent bush knife in a pinch.
Click to expand...

If it came without that massive, sharpened swedge, I'd be much more interested.

Survivormind
 
nutoknives said:
SWEET STEEL

Oh so much need to start modding and stop buying, F_CK THAT BOTH

THANKS FOR SHARING

SLICE HAS HIS BLADE SOAKING AFTER SEEING THOSE


KEEP EM SHARP
Click to expand...

That's funny...I was just thinking this would be a year of modding, not buying.

Still haven't brought myself to strip it yet tho.
 
Wasatchdan,

What did you do to get the pattern on the Blackhawk Tatang? I'm guessing the results are not food safe?
 
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