Stripping a SAR

N

nmjoe

Joined
Apr 21, 2007
Messages
5
I'm a bit new to Busses and just an occasional lurker on this thread. I have a SAR-5 I intend to USE and am planning a few mods -- just stripping it and some minor contouring and clean-up of the handle. A couple of questions: What do you guys use to strip the coating? Randucci, I saw your pics, but no mention of the chems you use. I assume the hollow rivets are just drilled out, but how do you set new hollow rivets? What tools are needed? Are the scales epoxied on at the factory (mine are G-10)? If not, is it recommended for reinstallation (I plan to epoxy them on)? Thanks in advance for the advice.

nmjoe
 
Here is the one I did recently. I removed the scales because I was going to sand out the INFI dimples and give it a double-cut look. After stripping it, I found that I really liked the dark grey patina on the blade so I decided to keep it that way.

A little wet sandpaper will smooth up the handles a bit if you like.

Here is a post about how to reattach the rivets.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471416

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Hello.....does anyone know if this stripping method will also work on tungsten coated blades? Or, is that a whole other beast? :confused:

Thanks
 
nmjoe, I've stripped a couple without removing the handle slabs. The slabs do not get loose so there is no need to remove and reinstall them. Unless of course you want to sand out the INFI dimples like kdstrick did.
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Thanks for the great info, all. KD, whatcha doin to your SAR? Just a strip job, or more? I'm gonna contour the handles a bit and clean up the pommel so that the tang follows the lines of the scales. I'll need to remove a fair amount of G-10 to follow the recontoured tang, and I plan to use a small sanding drum on a Dremel. See any problems with this? I've never worked that much with G-10.
 
I was thiking of using a dremel to sand out the bumps in the micarta and the INFI dimples where my belt sander does not reach so I don't have to remove the handles.
I was wondering if it is worth it or I would be better off just removing them?
I doubt what I could do would be as good a seal as the 20 000 pound press(If I remember correctly) that Busse uses?

I love my Sar5 especially the way the pommel is designed to be hammered on.
 
Unsub said:
I doubt what I could do would be as good a seal as the 20 000 pound press(If I remember correctly) that Busse uses?
.
Click to expand...

I could be wrong, but something tells me Busse doesn't use 20K pounds of pressure to install tube fasteners.
 
I'm in the middle of working on one now. My problem with the dremmel is always "a little more", "a little more", and "oh s#%t", so I've started sanding a lot more by hand. There are a few threads around about attaching the scales, I think mostly it's done by pressure in a vise and cut off screw heads to expand the tube.

If I find the treads I'll post them. This time around my plan is to use torx screws so I can switch between scales.
 
rumblebee said:
Hello.....does anyone know if this stripping method will also work on tungsten coated blades? Or, is that a whole other beast? :confused:

Bumping this up....anyone have info on tungsten coat stripping. Same as Busse coat strip?
Click to expand...
 
rumblebee said:
Bumping this up....anyone have info on tungsten coat stripping. Same as Busse coat strip?
Click to expand...

No

Chemical/mechanical method:
Various commercial nickel strip solutions may be used to degrade the coating in conjunction with mechanical methods such as gentle grit blasting.

Mechanical methods such as grit blasting or very high pressure water jet blasting may be necessary if chemical or electrolytic methods fail.

What ever method you choose it would be advisable to conduct tests first, to ensure effective coating removal with minimal damage to substrate. There might be more knowledgeable people that have a easier way.
 
Thanks for the info, Bkultra! Looks like a little more work than I'd like to put into that project :eek:
 
something else you might consider - stripping only the blade portion. I do this because I am unlikely to disturb the coating anywhere other then the edge and spine of the knife, and I can easily clean the blade with a scotch brite pad or sand paper. under the scales and the handle portion however is quite a task to clean under, unless held on by screws/bolts.

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