Stripping Finish on Beckers

[NY Yankee]

I'm new here guys so I have a bunch of questions. I tried to find a specific answer but did'nt. Im wondering what people really think of stripping the coatings on knives in general but specifically the Becker products. I'm curious if Mr Becker would Give his personal view of this practice too. Im not sure what to make of this as I will be getting a couple of his knives in the near future and Im not real fond of the rough coating. IDK.

 

[Dexwithers]

Welcome!

Yes......... Stripping is preferred my many.

I strip all my Beckers and ESEE's. I do leave the coating on under the handle scales though.

It is very simple to do. I use the Aircraft Paint remover from the local auto parts store and have never had a problem.

And I have seen a couple of MR Beckers knives that he did in fact strip. But I will let him give his thoughts on the subject.

The coating is great for some people. It can also be lightly sanded down with some high grit sand paper and a little oil to make a nice smooth texture.
It will also wear down with use.

Good luck and post pics of the process and finished knives!

 

[NY Yankee]

Forgot to mention that I am a gun nut too so Im very familiar with use and care of steel and the elements.

 

[Cryptyc]

I like to strip mine as well. I am not fond of the rough coating. I am mostly a gun nut as well so lubing and oiling are second nature for me. You will find that the steel does stain and patina rather easily so you'll build one rather quickly if you use it often. I use mine A LOT so they tend to get a nice ugly look fast and hold oil a little better. I like to start with a decent polish to the blade first after stripping then just let it age natural.

 

[Jonny1280]

Most of mine are stripped as well.
I'll second Dex's mention of leaving the handle coated. It's fairly easy to maintain a clean blade, but it's a pain to have to take off the scales to maintain a rust free handle.

By the way, welcome to the forum!
Stick around and make yourself at home!

 

[RX-79G]

The best stripper is Citri-Strip. About as aggressive as anything else, but not nearly as nasty.

As far as Becker steel goes, it is the same stuff that Cold Steel used to call "Carbon V" and what Case calls Cro-Van. They sold Carbon V knives painted and unpainted, and none of the Cases are coated at all. And then there's all the other carbon steel bare blades from Mora, Anza, Opinel, Bark River, etc, etc.

Keep in mind that Becker knives are "tactical", so they come with non-glare coatings - not just for corrosion protection. If that isn't something you're concerned about...

 

[NY Yankee]

OK, so far, so good. I like the idea of stripping the blade but leaving the handle coated. Would painters tape be sufficient to block the stripper or is duct tape better?

 

[zzyzzogeton]

I've used both painter's tape and duct tape. Duct tape leaves more glue behind when removed. With painter's tape since it comes off so easy, you just have to make sure you have it pressed down well.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

I have BKT knives in all shades- unstripped, stripped blade only, and completely stripped. I'll end up going back to coat the handles of the ones that were stripped. As mentioned already, its a pain to maintain a rust free handle.

As far as stripping JUST the blade- I just used careful aim... ;'D. Be sure to show us the finished product!

 

[Dexwithers]

I use painter tape. Just get the good stuff. The stripping stuff can eat under the edges.

I have a spare set of scales that I actually bolt on over the tape. Then I trim around the front of the scales and peel the tape up.

I leave the scales on when I strip it usually. Just tape around holes and stuff, and around the tang if you want to leave the spine coated as well.

I have actually done it with no tape before, just the scales. Worked ok. The scales don't seem to be harmed from the stripper, but if you only have one set, I would tape them just incase.

 

[RX-79G]

On a Cold Steel knife that you can't take the handles off, I made a simple brass scraper to remove the 1/4" of paint just outside the handles. That way masking was less critical. Brass won't scratch hardened steel, like bronze bore brushes.

The other way to go is a coating of clear nail polish for the steel under the handle. Which is also a gun thing.

 

[ocnLogan]

The best stripper is Citri-Strip. About as aggressive as anything else, but not nearly as nasty.

As far as Becker steel goes, it is the same stuff that Cold Steel used to call "Carbon V" and what Case calls Cro-Van. They sold Carbon V knives painted and unpainted, and none of the Cases are coated at all. And then there's all the other carbon steel bare blades from Mora, Anza, Opinel, Bark River, etc, etc.

Keep in mind that Becker knives are "tactical", so they come with non-glare coatings - not just for corrosion protection. If that isn't something you're concerned about...

I get what you are trying to say, but just want to point out that kabars 1095 cro-van is not at all the same as cold steels old carbon v. Not sure about the case steel, but I'm positive about the other.

And, I don't think that the Becker knives are really considered "tactical" as a whole. There are a model or two designed foe that purpose (BK7, BK10 ... Kind of). The rest are pretty solidly purpose built outdoors knives. But the coating isn't to "reduce glare", at least not that I've ever heard. Instead it is for corrosion resistance, and reducing finishing costs (don't have to put as fine of a finish on the steel if you're going to coat it. When you take it off you'll see that the grinds on the blades are a bit coarse is all). Again, I could be wrong, I've just never really heard of that reason before.

Anyway, I agree that non-coated carbon steel blades work just fine. That said, I'm a fan of stripping the blade, and leaving the bit under the scales. Just send to be the best option available personally

 

[RX-79G]

I get what you are trying to say, but just want to point out that kabars 1095 cro-van is not at all the same as cold steels old carbon v. Not sure about the case steel, but I'm positive about the other.

And, I don't think that the Becker knives are really considered "tactical" as a whole. There are a model or two designed foe that purpose (BK7, BK10 ... Kind of). The rest are pretty solidly purpose built outdoors knives. But the coating isn't to "reduce glare", at least not that I've ever heard. Instead it is for corrosion resistance, and reducing finishing costs (don't have to put as fine of a finish on the steel if you're going to coat it. When you take it off you'll see that the grinds on the blades are a bit coarse is all). Again, I could be wrong, I've just never really heard of that reason before.

Anyway, I agree that non-coated carbon steel blades work just fine. That said, I'm a fan of stripping the blade, and leaving the bit under the scales. Just send to be the best option available personally

Lots of military knives, stainless or not, are painted matte black. And Beckers come with military type sheaths. I'm not using "tactical" in a denigrating way, just saying that the product line as a whole is designed to appeal to people who like military stuff.


As far as the steel goes, what are you objecting to? Camillus made the Becker, Cold Steel and Case blade blanks out of 0170-6, which was later known as 50100B when Sharon Steel closed. Kabar continues to use it, calling it 1095CV, and Case calls it simply Cro Van. Cold Steel's US carbon steel production ended when Camillus died, and apparently they didn't want to or couldn't go to Kabar for fabrication, so no more Carbon V.

What is it you heard?

 

[ocnLogan]

Lots of military knives, stainless or not, are painted matte black. And Beckers come with military type sheaths. I'm not using "tactical" in a denigrating way, just saying that the product line as a whole is designed to appeal to people who like military stuff.


As far as the steel goes, what are you objecting to? Camillus made the Becker, Cold Steel and Case blade blanks out of 0170-6, which was later known as 50100B when Sharon Steel closed. Kabar continues to use it, calling it 1095CV, and Case calls it simply Cro Van. Cold Steel's US carbon steel production ended when Camillus died, and apparently they didn't want to or couldn't go to Kabar for fabrication, so no more Carbon V.

What is it you heard?

I knew that Carbon V was actually 0170-6/50100B, but hadn't realized/remembered that 1095CV was the same thing, and not "just" 1095 with some chromium and vanadium added in. That's what I get for posting on my phone (not double checking my facts) :/.

And I realize you weren't trying to sound derogatory with the "tactical" moniker. I was just merely saying that I've never seen them marketed as such, and the public perception at least around bladeforums doesn't seem to think of them in that way. I could be wrong though, as I'm not much into advertising .

Anyway, as far as stripping the entire knife goes, I do know that many people will wax the tang under the scales to help prevent rust (or nailpolish as was mentioned earlier). And also, I said before that I am a fan of leaving the coating under the handle, but also just wanted to say that I do also suggest forcing a patina on the main part of the blade to help prevent rust. I live in a coastal area (about 3 miles from salt water), and I haven't had a problem keeping my carbon steel knives rust free so far. The only maintenance that I do is make sure to oil them a touch before longish term storage (> month or so), and to put them away dry other than that. And so far so good .

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Did just that to my BK-15, a word of warning, once removed you'll have a mottled finish, I believe left from the heat treat process? I sanded mine down so it's fairly smooth, also would probably help keep it's looks a bit longer, but will still need to be vigilant on clean up once a chores done.

This shot also shows the micarta scales I picked up for it too, makes it a little heavier but feels just about right in the hand with that added weight;

I used Jasco paint remover picked up from Lowes, take care using any paint remover, they can be quite caustic, it's that old 'come see the violence inherent in the system...' kind of thing just part of the paint removing charm.

I used painter's tape to keep the black on those parts without a sharp edge.

G2

 

[neeman]

on the bigger knives I just strip the blades
I leave the coating in the handles to prevent rust as the handles get wet inside the grips
but the smaller knives I strip completely
I use a generic paint stripper and a small paint scraper