Stripping paint off of INFI and then polishing?

E

emt1581

Joined
Dec 28, 2011
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I'm waiting to see if the old competition finish (uncoated INFI) is available on the new Park Ranger. I'm guessing it isn't. Doesn't mean I won't buy a coated blade.

But I'd like to know from those that have experience doing it...

1. What is the best method for stripping the coating off of INFI? Is there a liquid that will dissolve it but not hurt the black canvas/rivets/etc? Maybe a particular Dremmel bit that works well and doesn't scratch the steel?

and

2. What's the preferred method for polishing the bare INFI? I don't necessarily need it to look as good as the satin from the factory...just neat and clean.

Thanks!
 
Citristrip works well for stripping.

v8YZu5a.jpg
 
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I agree with the above and if you plan to etch the LOGO do so first before stripping...that's been a recent question.

If you don't have a belt grinder/sander you can find wet/dry sandpaper at a automotive paint dealer 120-220-400-600 grit then use a scotchbrite wheel on a mandrel or a scotchbrite belt these will give a decent ghetto satin finish!!
 
Citristrip has worked great every time I have used it, the coatings just peel off in big strips and chunks and just slide right off the blade.
I put my blades in large (or small or medium) heavy duty Ziploc and pour in Citristrip and massage the blade like i was marinating a couple chicken breasts ensuring all metal is covered in goo, and then compress air out of bag with my hands and then I have a totally encased blade bathing in Citristrip. I will turn and massage occasionally until desired tenderness is achieved and then add seasonings to taste. I have stripped whole blades in a matter of hours, and sometimes I will let marinate overnight, depending how anxious I am. I have had to put knives back in the marinade before, and it seems like a good 3-4 hours of patience will net you a fully stripped blade.

Then sanding, dremel/polishing begins.

You will move faster using dremel, although you will go through a lot of money in the correct heads. Beware the flap wheel.

Cam
 
Citristrip is the best way to go, if your in a hurry and dont mind the toxic fumes jasco is a bit faster.
 
As far as the handle goes, don't worry about it, the Handles are not bothered by the stripper. At least not what I've used and no one that I can recall on the forums has had any damage.
 
JohnTheTexican said:
Citristrip and Scotchbrite.
Click to expand...

First off, what a beautiful blade!! I'd almost hate to use it.

In regard to citristrip, I actually thought you were joking at first because I've used it when flipping out last house and, while it got the paint off, it left a milky residue on the wood. But it looks like everyone is in agreement.

Thanks for sharing!
 
Busto said:
I agree with the above and if you plan to etch the LOGO do so first before stripping...that's been a recent question.

If you don't have a belt grinder/sander you can find wet/dry sandpaper at a automotive paint dealer 120-220-400-600 grit then use a scotchbrite wheel on a mandrel or a scotchbrite belt these will give a decent ghetto satin finish!!
Click to expand...

I don't understand...isn't the logo already laser etched and permanent or does the citristrip take it off? How does one etch the logo?

I was actually asking specific to a Dremmel just because that's what I have handy (use it on my GSD's nails). I do have a bench mounted grinder/wheel but I haven't actually hooked it up at my home yet. So Dremmel is definitely preferable. I'll have to look into some of the options you mentioned though. Thanks!
 
^--- Nope. The logo is lasered on through the coating touching the steel. You'll need to chemically or electrically etch it on the steel.

This was done completely with Scotchbrite pads and Dremmel heads:
34955180465_c157866cd7_b.jpg


Be patient and take you're time and you'll get good results.

Good luck!!!
 
evltcat said:
^--- Nope. The logo is lasered on through the coating touching the steel. You'll need to chemically or electrically etch it on the steel.

This was done completely with Scotchbrite pads and Dremmel heads:

Be patient and take you're time and you'll get good results.

Good luck!!!
Click to expand...

Another beautiful blade. So the logo is lasered on...through the paint....so does the citristrip take it off?

I'm not understanding the whole "chemically or electrically" etching it on the steel. I'm not able to piece it together in my head what that would look like? I have zero artistic capability...not sure if that's required. Thanks!
 
emt1581 said:
Another beautiful blade. So the logo is lasered on...through the paint....so does the citristrip take it off?

I'm not understanding the whole "chemically or electrically" etching it on the steel. I'm not able to piece it together in my head what that would look like? I have zero artistic capability...not sure if that's required. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Hey there; you might find this thread helpful: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/logo-etching-for-infi-need-help-please.1440609/

Cheers,
C.
 
the logo is laser etched through the paint not INTO the steel. so you fill in the cavity with an etching compound to eat the logo into the steel. the etching compound will not eat the paint only the steel.
 
That SHARK is awesome, I could not, still cant decide if I really want one or not, I would definitely buy that one for sure! I love the way they look for sure, and I love the handle style as well.

I have never hand Citristrip do anything to handles either, micarta or otherwise, you will come out with cleaner handles/tubes with all the washing and rinsing from the sanding work, anyways!

Cam
 
emt1581 said:
That was helpful. Seems like either a chemical or electrical method is used sometimes with a dam of hot glue.

Does the color mater in regard to ease of removal and/or etching? Does black come off and etch better than tanker gray/etc.?

Thanks
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The laser goes all the way to the surface of the steel, but not much deeper. I've stripped old black, new black, and old and new tanker. The only one I had a bit of a problem with is the new black on a CG BB-13. It was the only one I had to put more stripper on and work to get the coating off.

I used the process that @clampdaddy described (thank you sir!) to etch the logos.
No dam, applied the etchant with a Q-tip to the blades on a flat surface, waited 20 minutes, soaked up the excess etchant, wash with Dawn, scrub with a brass brush and repeated 6 times. I followed up with a baking soda wash and rinse. Was very easy and worked very well.
 
+1 for Citristrip,
I have some other stuff I picked up at a local hardware store that smelled terrible and gave me a burn through 5 mil nitrile gloves and couldnt lift off the coating on a 311 without a ton of scraping and multiple applications.
I picked up some citristrip for a black CG basic, left it on for an hour on a 80 degree day and the coating slipped off like a prom dress :thumbsup::D
 
What I did was change the q tip often about one per minute otherwise the etch started to turn dirty and left a stain
If I just scrub lightly and then discard it stayed clean
Also notice the stink, use good ventelation . I don't think it's very good to breath , I have a fan over my workbench and still had stinky smell like acid tanks in plating shops
Also stop and clean each time I change q tips ,got Avery deep and clean etch
 
Citristrip will get off most of the finish and will NOT hurt the Micarta Scales at all. If anything, it will clean all the absorbed oils off of it and renew it to the day you got it. I JUST did this with my BUSSE SAR5. I heard you can do this with G10 scales too, but you have to heat it up in a pan, and dip the scales into it for a while for it to take. Micarta sucks it up... I haven't had one spec of dye on my hands after it dried.

After a day sitting in the Citristrip, I fixed the knife to a brick of wood via screwing in screws that fit through 2 of the the rivets (without tightening it down really, it held the knife in place perfectly). I was VERY careful not to push/dent the rivets when I did this.

How to sand/polish by hand:

Starting with 220 grit (waterproof sand paper) and moving all the way up to 3000 grit + a polish - Personally, I fix the blade pointing towards my belly on a piece of wood that's wide enough to keep my knuckles and finger tips from getting sliced off. Once there isn't anymore "spine to blade" grind lines left (they're all going from handle to tip) - Do the same thing at a 45 degree angle until all the lines are 45 degrees and there ins't any trace of length-wise lines. Switch up and reverse the 45 degree angle of sanding until all the lines are going that way and there isn't any trace of the previous 45 sanding. Repeat the lengthwise sanding, and then move up to the next Grit - 600 (take out that first step of lengthwise sanding. Just go straight to both 45 degree angles.) When you do both 45's and then the lengthwise on the 600, jump to 800 Grit. Then 1000. Then 1500, then 2000, then 2500, then 3000... Then buy a $20 hand held polishing guy from Amazon and polish the steel with Flitz. Should have a mirror polish at that point...

See images below::
 
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