Stripping Paint

al3xd4gr34t

al3xd4gr34t

Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
868
Well, my BM 9100 is looking not too good from being used a lot, so I decided I wanted to strip the black paint form it and give it with a mirrow finish. Originally, I was planning on sanding it, but that would take too much time.

So now I am in need of advice about any other methods that I could use to remove the paint evenly and efficiently. Chemical methods? Paint thinner?Boiling over night? Let me know what you think is best for me.
 
A chemical stripper should take the coating/paint right off. But you'll still need to sand the blade to get the mirror finish you seek.

Definitely REMOVE the blade first, or else the chemical stripper will damage the plastic handle and other parts.
 
What paint are you talking about? The black finish on the handle or the blade?

If you're talking about the blade, I doubt you'll be getting the BK1 coating off too easily with common household chemical strippers (paint thinner, acetone, ect.). You may want to sand. It'll take a lot of effort to get a mirror finish, but you can probably get a very nice satin finish with some work.

If it's the handle, I'm not sure what it's coated with and acetone may work just fine.

Or you could leave it scratched up, gives it character.
 
I am stripping everything, from blade, to handle, to pocket clip, to screws. I'm not sure that there are any plastic parts on this particular knife. Right now, it is disassembled in front of me and everything seems to be metal.
 
Or you could just buy the model with the uncoated blade. :D

If you're talking about the blade, I doubt you'll be getting the BK1 coating off too easily with common household chemical strippers (paint thinner, acetone, ect.).
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Just guessing, but I expect that an acetone or paint thinner will simply smear the coating or be too weak to affect it much at all. I would try a full-strength paint stripper instead, alhtough I haven't done it personally:

720pcx.gif
 
What I was planning on doing was sanding with 150 grit first, then soaking in paint thinner or acetone, whiping it down to see what it did, and if necessary, sand again.
 
Bob W said:
Or you could just buy the model with the uncoated blade. :D


Just guessing, but I expect that an acetone or paint thinner will simply smear the coating or be too weak to affect it much at all. I would try a full-strength paint stripper instead, alhtough I haven't done it personally
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If you go that route, be sure to use something glass to put the stripper in. Some of the stronger checmical strippers will eat through plastic in short order and you really don't want that stuff all over the floor.

Give it a shot. If it works it works, if not it won't hurt anything, just be sure to clean the blade really well after you take it out of the bath.
 
Go to an auto parts or auto paint store and get "E-Z Strip" or equivalent. It goes on as a gel and will lift baked-on automotive paint in about 1/2 an hour. Pick up some plastic spatulas and rubber gloves, too. If that won't take off the blade coating (and it probably won't on coatings like DLC), then I think sanding is your only option. That, or sand/bead blasting.
 
al3xd4gr34t said:
What I was planning on doing was sanding with 150 grit first, then soaking in paint thinner or acetone, whiping it down to see what it did, and if necessary, sand again.
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That's pretty close to the process I used to strip the coating off of my Buck Hatsook. The stripper didn't work very well because Buck uses a pretty hard coating, but it helped to soften the coating.

But I think you're right to sand first. That'll begin to break down the coating and roughen it up so the stripper can soak in.

It's gonna take some effort. Be VERY careful around the edge as well, it'll cut through sand paper without hesitation. I'd save the edge for last and put a few layers of tape over it as well.

After your finished, you'll have to spend some time sharpening because you're going to do some damage to the edge no matter how hard you try to avoid it (unless the stripper takes the coating right off).
 
Here are some pictures of the progress I've been making.

Before
IMG_3847.jpg


After
IMG_3849.jpg

IMG_3850.jpg

IMG_3851.jpg


I need to go pick up some paint thinner Monday. Will continue sanding until then.
 
I'm anxious to see what that thing finishes up like. That knife will probably look real nice all stripped and polished.

Keep us posted.
 
riffraff said:
Hence my Strip-EZ gel suggestion. Using that stuff, he'd be done by now. :)
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No kidding, huh?

Since he posted this morning, I've stripped the paint from about twenty feet of 12" baseboard using Zip-Strip Premium. Layer, upon layer, upon layer.

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I bet this stuff would work well on aluminum:

aircraft-remover-gar343.gif

I have a can laying around, but haven't used it on anything yet.
 
So I went with Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover. Just started the bath a few minutes ago. I'll check on it in an hour or so.
 
The handles are anodized not painted. You will need a strong Lye solution. It's very dangerous and it will eat the aluminum.
 
65535 said:
The handles are anodized not painted. You will need a strong Lye solution. It's very dangerous and it will eat the aluminum.
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I think you're right about the anodized handles. The Jasco removed the paint from the pocket clip well, but the handles don't seem to be affected by it. I was reading a discussion about removing anodization from motorcycle parts using over cleaner. Any input on this method?
 
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