Stripping Question.....

Father & Son Traditional Sharpening

Father & Son Traditional Sharpening

Joined
Jun 11, 2012
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Hey guys,

I'm wanting to strip a couple of blades but want to avoid the real toxic strippers out there if I can. I came across Citristrip which is supposed to be essentially non-toxic being that it's based off citrus oils.

My question is whether you guys think this will work well for the coatings on Bussekin blades? There's mixed reviews at Home Depot's website about how well it works, but I'm not sure what to make of it. Here's a link for the products at Home Depot with more info and review.....

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...keyword=citristrip&storeId=10051#BVRRWidgetID

I'm also thinking that I will need to use something to scrape the coatings off after applying, anybody got any recommendations that work well for pretty cheap?

Also just curious, what type of material are the coatings made of? Thanks for the help, everyone!!:thumbup:
 
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I had a can laying around that I tried on the blades I just stripped. I did nothing. I threw it in the garbage.
Its funny, I just went digging to find it to see if it was what you are asking about.
I went out and bought a can of Klean Strip.
 
FTR-14c said:
I had a can laying around that I tried on the blades I just stripped. I did nothing. I threw it in the garbage.
Its funny, I just went digging to find it to see if it was what you are asking about.
I went out and bought a can of Klean Strip.
Click to expand...


How much of it did you apply to the blade and how long did you leave it on?

One reviewer recommended heavy application and letting it sit overnight before trying to remove the paint....
 
I cannot help on the stripper bit ... I just used what I could find over here and made sure the room was well ventilated ... these days most stripping products ought to be safe ... law suits etc being so expensive ...

To scrape off the paint I have lots of old primer trays which Federal Match rifle primers come in ... the underside of these has a good squared off edge which is great for scraping and being plastic they won't do any damage. You can then throw these away without feeling you need to clean and keep them ...

As to the materials the coatings are made from ... not sure if this has ever been disclosed ... and I have been around here a number of years ...
 
Worked great at stripping the paint off a rifle stock. Also pulled the factory spiderweb pattern off, and then some. But I sanded it. No idea what the busse coating is tho. It may not work at all.
 
You wont know what the next step is going to be until you see whats under the coating.
Your next step may be sending it back to Busse to have it recoated. Or if your lucky, a little sanding
buy hand or on a belt sander could have it looking good.
 
I use Klean-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover. Be very careful with this stuff (strong enough to easily remove Duracoat) and wear chemical resistant gloves when using it.
 
FTR-14c said:
You wont know what the next step is going to be until you see whats under the coating.
Your next step may be sending it back to Busse to have it recoated. Or if your lucky, a little sanding
buy hand or on a belt sander could have it looking good.
Click to expand...

I will be stripping my CG Boss Jack which I've already chipped about 1/4" of coating from the tip when using it as an icepick to puncture coconut eyes to drain the coconut water. The metal looks pretty nice where the coating flaked off, can this be used as an indicator of what the rest of the blade looks like or is it pretty much a crapshoot?

I seem to remember reading on here that the CG Boss Jack's are almost satin underneath the coating because of the convex grind, can anybody confirm this?
 
It is a crap shoot ... some will have more marks than others ... Horn Dog over at the yard where you also have posted will give you a good pointer as to his using a buffing wheel to remove the remaining vestages of paint and provide a ghetto satin finish ... using these is better than a belt sander as they are mainly to be used to remove metal as opposed to buffing out tool marks and hard to remove undercoat powder coatings ...
 
PeterPHWS said:
It is a crap shoot ... some will have more marks than others ... Horn Dog over at the yard where you also have posted will give you a good pointer as to his using a buffing wheel to remove the remaining vestages of paint and provide a ghetto satin finish ... using these is better than a belt sander as they are mainly to be used to remove metal as opposed to buffing out tool marks and hard to remove undercoat powder coatings ...
Click to expand...

Alright, thanks! I'm really not too concerned about how bad it looks underneath, I guess it's mostly just curiosity at this point.....:).
 
Some one knows how to maintain the Busse logo after stripping the coating? I'm thinking in stripping a NMSFNO with a scratch in the coating but I dont want to loose the logo. In the other hand, some one knows how to restore the coating? (remove the scratch leaving the coating like new)
 
I just bought a can of klean strip and hung my ash-1 and sprayed it.within five minutes 90% of the black coating was bubbling off.I scrubbed gently and used hot water to reveal a very nice looking blade.i repeated in the areas that were stubborn.i am happy with the results.it looks like a darker tanker grey.
 
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