Stripping

Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Messages
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Hey all, anyone wanting to strip your blade and want to keep it under the scales and not quite sure how this works for me. Here is an easy way. Have your paint remover. Trace your scales with a pencil, take them off. Put some remover in a small can like a tuna can works good, I then use a q-tip and apply around your marks . You don't need it real thick, then coat the rest of the blade, let it sit 5 to 10 mins. If you stay with in your lines it comes out very nice. I've had good luck with Paint and Epoxy remover from the home place. Hope this helps someone who might not know how to. Good luck!

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Sounds like a good tip. Thanks for sharing. I have done it before by using masking tape over the parts I want to remain coated.

Posting pictures makes these kind of posts even more interesting. :thumbup:
 
To be honest, this method does not seem like it would work well at all. If you have had success, I'd love to see some pics.

I have probably stripped at least 20 Becker's where I left the coating on under the scales and the simplest and most effective way I have used is to just leave the stock scales on. At first I was worried about the stripper ruining the scales but they seem very resistant to strippers. If you are worried then use old or extra scales.

Next apply the stripper. I like hard crisp lines so taking an exacto knife and just mark around the scales makes perfect lines once stripped between the left on coating and new bare metal.

I have also done this method where I apply tape to the blade then bolt the scales on and cut away the tape. Then you can remove the scales and apply stripper.

Many ways to achieve same or similar results. This is just what I have found to work the best for me.
 
Sounds like a good tip. Thanks for sharing. I have done it before by using masking tape over the parts I want to remain coated.

Posting pictures makes these kind of posts even more interesting. :thumbup:

I sometimes have bad luck with tape letting paint leak threw thought remover might do the same . But my way you still could mess up just a little slip .
 
I don't strip the ricasso, but just the primary grind. I find using the plunge line as my dividing point makes for a cleaner line.

I wrap just the blade in a paper towel.

I then carefully pour acetone on the paper towel.

I then wrap just the paper towel/blade but not the ricasso in aluminum foil and wait maybe five minutes. If you don't keep the paper towel and the foil together right where you want the line to be the acetone fumes will soften more of the coating than you want. Again, I find using the plunge line as my dividing point makes for a cleaner line.

I then remove it and scrape the coating off with a sharp scraper. When I remove the knife from the paper towel and foil I fold them back up so the paper towel doesn't dry out since acetone evaporates so fast. I usually have to wrap it back up a couple of times because acetone evaporates fast and the coating hardens back up before I am done. Just repeat until finished.

A red scotchbrite pad will clean it up when finished and get the little bits you miss.

I am sure it is not ideal but it works, it is easy and it uses very little solvent. I just did my BK4 today. The plunge line does not go all the way to the spine on the BK4 so you must just cut a straight line from there up.

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To be honest, this method does not seem like it would work well at all. If you have had success, I'd love to see some pics.

I have probably stripped at least 20 Becker's where I left the coating on under the scales and the simplest and most effective way I have used is to just leave the stock scales on. At first I was worried about the stripper ruining the scales but they seem very resistant to strippers. If you are worried then use old or extra scales.

Next apply the stripper. I like hard crisp lines so taking an exacto knife and just mark around the scales makes perfect lines once stripped between the left on coating and new bare metal.

I have also done this method where I apply tape to the blade then bolt the scales on and cut away the tape. Then you can remove the scales and apply stripper.

Many ways to achieve same or similar results. This is just what I have found to work the best for me.
Sounds like a good way to me . I just thought the remover would eat the scales right up . When I get a chance I will post a few pics . The remover is so thick it's relay not that hard to stay within the lines . But thanks Dex for your tip sounds even easier .
 
Depends on what you're using to strip it with also. I use the Klean Kutter spray stuff and just tape everything from the ricasso back, with the scales off. I have a jug of Citristrip but I haven't tried it yet.

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Citristrip only works when its hot out. If its cold it can sit there for a week and not work.
 
I've stripped my entire 15, then after cleaning thoroughly, applied tape to the blade leaving only the handle area exposed, without handles attached. Then I use automotive clearcoat from a spray can for the handle area. Once properly dried, I re-attach the handles and are G2G.
 
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Hey all, anyone wanting to strip your blade and want to keep it under the scales and not quite sure how this works for me. Here is an easy way. Have your paint remover. Trace your scales with a pencil, take them off. Put some remover in a small can like a tuna can works good, I then use a q-tip and apply around your marks . You don't need it real thick, then coat the rest of the blade, let it sit 5 to 10 mins. If you stay with in your lines it comes out very nice. I've had good luck with Paint and Epoxy remover from the home place. Hope this helps someone who might not know how to. Good luck!

ry%3D60


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400

Sorry for the delay needed help from the wife to post the pics and now just noticed I some how lost the pic of my 4 without the scales oh well it turned out just fine . Oh yea I leave the paint on the exposed tang around the scales now on all my later Beckers . Sorry for double post
 
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how did you dye the micarta? Nothing i seem to do sticks.
They were made with those colors the 11 has black micarta the 7 is green and the 4 also black with red g10 liners . The 11 and 7 were done by a guy quite long ago and stopped making them . The 4 has micarta made by Joe at lmf Knives he can make any color you want depending on availability . Sorry I don't know about dyeing . I've heard of people using ritz dye but have not heard of how well it worked .
 
See! Thread #1 down, a few more to go!

Good job, nice pics and tutorial.

For dyed micarta I use RIT dye. Available in food stores in the laundry detergent isle. Colors don't Quite match due to the base color of the micarta but it is a good way to go.

Allow them to boil for 10-30 mind in the dye then run them under water til water runs clear from the scales and dry. You should be ok after that.
 
At first I was worried about the stripper ruining the scales but they seem very resistant to strippers.
I got some stripper on the new scales (BKs 20 + 21), and it discolored them - I had not seen that with others I'd stripped that way. I'm not at home to do pictures right now; but I'm try to remember to get some.
 
Strippers are one of my weak points. I have absolutely no resistance to them. They bend my will until it snaps.


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I got some stripper on the new scales (BKs 20 + 21), and it discolored them - I had not seen that with others I'd stripped that way. I'm not at home to do pictures right now; but I'm try to remember to get some.
I wonder if the new Halon used is a little different ? Might even depend on the brand of stripper used too . But I will continue to do it my way it's easy . Not that I don't have scales to spare . But I can see exactly were it is and where it's going . Just don't go passed the lines . Feed it in with the q-tip carefully and and that's that .
 
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