strong detent for flipper

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May 3, 2008
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I don't know if the folder guys consider this a trade secret, but would anyone be willing to share ideas on how to make a flipper detent really secure?
That's the number one concern I'm hearing about mine, I'd like to get that detail taken care of.
A lot of folks that look at my folders for gifts aren't knowledgeable about knives, and I'd like to be able to show them how trusty the closure is.
My first idea would be a larger ball sitting down into a bigger hole, with a stronger spring, but the drawback would be increased friction and more tendency to push the blade to the side.
Thanks for any ideas.
 
The only suggestion I can make is to bend in the lockbar a little more. The drawback is of course too much friction on the blade both pushing it off center when closed and making opening it a little more difficult. A fine balancing act. A larger ball with a deeper hole is always an option but I have little to offer in experience there.
 
Never mind trying to do it with the liner unless you want to use thicker material for some other reason. Go to the 3/32 ball and you will have what you want. Set the ball by using say a over thick washer and a flat punch over a hole in a bench block of some sort, and then grind the ball level on the liner on the scale side. Frank
 
I would say Les George, Jason Brous and Pohan Leu have it nailed! A few others as well but aren't popping in my head at the moment. I recently got rid of one of my jewels, a Yuna Hard flipper. While it was hard to see it go I have decided not to keep any knives that I wouldn't carry and use. While the Yuna was beautiful and the new owner loved the knife we had a chat about the flipping action of the knife. And we both pretty much agreed that it had a weak detent therefore it required some wrist action to flip. A hugely popular maker on here and everywhere, Hinderer has a ton of flippers out there! I have one or two of them and they also require some wrist action! And it seems as if the detent was a little stronger you wouldn't need the wrist. I guess if you re not happy with your flipper let a spring do the work for you!
 
I believe you got that backwards. If it had a weak detent it would be easier to flip. Frank

Not really, you build more pressure, allowing for a stronger flip with a stronger detent. Too weak a detent and the blade doesn't fully open.
 
I have tweaked many great flippers and a strong detent does make it flip better. The strongest detent was on an RJ Martin and it was also the best flipper, no tweaking there. My Hinderer's required a bending in of the lockbar resulting in zero wrist work and fantastic action.
 
Thanks, all! I'll try the bigger ball.
The main concern is having it come open in the pocket- even with a clip a lot of folks worry about that.
Also, yes- having resistance to overcome when you push on the flipper tab makes it work like it has a spring behind it, seems like 3-4 lbs of push makes em snap open like an auto, if the pivot is nice and smooth.
I'm trying to avoid too strong a spring, tends to slow it down, though that may not be such an issue with bearings.
 
Of all the knives I've sampled, I think Pohan Leu has the best detent. Solid, forceful and precise!!
 
The larger ball is not required. I can make a 1/16" ball with a detent so strong that you can't flip it open :) Plus the larger ball only really works on a framelock unless you're using
some thick liners for a linerlock. 3/32" = .09375.

I think the problem you're having with blades opening is that the ball is possibly too far off from the hole. You don't want it concentric with the hole, just maybe like .007-.010 off
of concentric. The lock bar pressure has a lot to do with how hard it grabs shut and if you're lock relief is too thick for a short lock, you're not going to be able to flip it.

#53 to drill the lock bar, #53 straight flute die carbide drill to drill the hardened blade. assemble the knife. push the blade closed. now push it in slightly further closed say about another 1/32" to 1/16"
in the closed position, drill through the lock bar. (this will all depend on your flipper design and where your stop pin is, etc etc.) Take it apart, press the ball in with the thickness of
washer you're spaced out for. Grind the ball off so now it only sticks out .012 or so...

Remember, you can always alleviate the grab, but if you end up early or concentric, fixing that is a lot harder.

Your hole that you've drilled in the blade should have a deeper hole than one for a thumb stud. The flipper hole should also be 90 degrees so it works with the flattened detent ball to
make it POP! out. When you grind it flat, the flat spot of the ball that is ground off should be parallel with the blade or it will drag worse than an unground ball.
 
I think Frank meant that with the weaker detent, the blade comes out of the hole easier. It might not actually make the entire flip open though ;)

Not really, you build more pressure, allowing for a stronger flip with a stronger detent. Too weak a detent and the blade doesn't fully open.
 
If the detents were stronger on the hinderers then the thumb studs might be rendered useless since the motion is not the same opening it with a thumb vs the flipper knob. Most people want to push the blade
to the side into the lock while using a thumb stud.

I would say Les George, Jason Brous and Pohan Leu have it nailed! A few others as well but aren't popping in my head at the moment. I recently got rid of one of my jewels, a Yuna Hard flipper. While it was hard to see it go I have decided not to keep any knives that I wouldn't carry and use. While the Yuna was beautiful and the new owner loved the knife we had a chat about the flipping action of the knife. And we both pretty much agreed that it had a weak detent therefore it required some wrist action to flip. A hugely popular maker on here and everywhere, Hinderer has a ton of flippers out there! I have one or two of them and they also require some wrist action! And it seems as if the detent was a little stronger you wouldn't need the wrist. I guess if you re not happy with your flipper let a spring do the work for you!
 
The lock bar pressure has a lot to do with how hard it grabs shut and if you're lock relief is too thick for a short lock, you're not going to be able to flip it.

Lots of good info, thanks!
Can you clarify that one sentence? For some reason I'm not getting it...
 
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