Strongest Spyderco Lockback versus BM Axis Locks

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bk400

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
172
Ok, not to start another fight, but I've searched the forums, and there's a lot of commentary on lockbacks versus axis locks versus liner locks, etc. The consensus is that good lockbacks are reliable and strong, as are axis locks. If you take the average lockback and the average axis lock, it seems like the forum prefers the axis.

But let's say you're comparing the Manix / Chinook lockback and the 806D2 /710HS axis lock. If your fingers depended on it, which one would you use to pierce a car door (leaving aside differences in steel hardness)?

The axis lock is so elegant, and it doesn't look like it should wear out over time. I wonder if the axis on a thinner, smaller BM, like a 940 or 707 is more reliable than a Manix / Chinook lockback...
 
bk400 said:
But let's say you're comparing the Manix / Chinook lockback and the 806D2 /710HS axis lock. If your fingers depended on it, which one would you use to pierce a car door (leaving aside differences in steel hardness)?
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Neither, I'd use a fixed blade. I don't trust any lock that much.

That being said, I trust my lockbacks(to a point, let's be reasonable) but I don't have much faith in axis locks. I trust the BB lock more than an axis, but the lockback still has my vote as most reliable.

Just my opinion of course, and my own experiences may not mirror those of others.
 
It's much more likely for a lock to fail because of accidental disengagement than because of actually reaching a lock's strength limit. So I'd choose the Axis in this specific case, as it's hard to imagine disengaging it here.
 
Lock strength isn't really the most important factor. Often other components fail first. A quote from Sal (talking about a compression lock):

In break tests, either the stop pin is blown out the top, the compression lock is sheared, the tang breaks off of the blade or the pivot pin shears.

sal

Any answer to the question about which lock is better is just a guess unless you have data for both Spyderco's lockbacks and axis lock models. Again, a couple of quotes from Sal

The Manix is running over 200 inch/lbs per inch of blade which would rate it Very Heavy Duty (same as MBC, but as suggested by a forumite, MBC may not be a good name for the rating considering the large number of customers that have no interest in Martial Blade Craft (MBC).

There is no governing body that sets rating. Spyderco employs our own in-house rating system in the construction of our designs. We set the desired standard when we design the model and build to that standard. We test (break) the models in development and continue to test (break) the models to ensure that our standards have not changed.

In-house Lock strength standards
Light Duty = over 25 inch/lbs of lock strength per inch of blade length
Medium Duty = over 50 inch/lbs per inch of blade length
Heavy Duty = over 100 inch/lbs per inch of blade length.
Very Heavy Duty (MBC) = over 200 inch/lbs of lock strength per inch of blade length.

We also have our standards for G-10 (ours is custom made), blade strength, and other general safety issues.

sal


We've not made a list. Most are not really interested. We do it for our own peace of mind. It is important not to cut the hand that feeds you.

Basically, the FRN pieces will be Medium and heavy. SS pieces are ususally in the heavy duty range. The Very heavy duty will be pieces ike the Gunting, Yojimbo, Chinook, Manix, Lil Temperance, etc.

Light duty pieces will be the smaller pieces, Kiwi, Ladybug,etc.

sal


Get similar break test results from Benchmade (I've never seen any) and you'll have an answer about knife strength, but not necessarily lock strength. But that is what's most important isn't it? - the strength of the whole, not just one part.
 
I do not have any Benchmades at all. I do think they are good knives. I do have several Spyerco's and just recently go the D’Allara Drop Point with the Ball Bearing lock. I am very impressed with it! It is very strong and it is a great knife!!

Ron
 
I don't think it really matters which is stronger because I can't think of a legitimate situation in which either would fail.

As stated above, a fixed blade is always a better choice.
 
All of these folding knives will fail laterally long before the lock fails.
In other words, it takes less of a sideward, prybar load to spring the frame than it takes to overcome the lock.

Folding knives represent a serious compromise which we make for purly social and cultural reasons.
Society and our culture will accept a large folder but not a fixed blade of the same total length worn openly.

For a known self-defense event, one I know will happen at a given time and place, give me a fixed blade Chinook II with a sharpened swedge, or a Fairbairn Sykes Pattern 1.
 
:jerkit: What non-retarded reason would I have for stabbing a car door? This is like saying a peacemaker is "tougher" than a 1911 because a peacemaker can be used to hammer nails with the handle. :jerkit:
 
I have stabbed a car hood several times with my 710. Its not a big deal. I did it because it was there!
 
I carry Benchmade 730 or 806 in urban areas,but now they are discontinued therefore I guess it's time to retire them.Now I am considering a Spyderco lockback,not Axis folders.I just don't like those tiny springs.I guess Axis lock is reliable,as long as the springs are not broken.;)
 
Michael Cook said:
:jerkit: What non-retarded reason would I have for stabbing a car door? This is like saying a peacemaker is "tougher" than a 1911 because a peacemaker can be used to hammer nails with the handle. :jerkit:
Click to expand...

Imagine you're driving alone at night. You're going to make a turn and you glance right. Much to your horror, there's a ninja sitting in the passenger seat getting ready to deanimate you. He's already glued or jammed the locks shut so you cannot escape. What do you do? You whip out your tanto-pointed car door-stabbing knife and rip right through that door.
 
Ryan8 said:
Imagine you're driving alone at night. You're going to make a turn and you glance right. Much to your horror, there's a ninja sitting in the passenger seat getting ready to deanimate you. He's already glued or jammed the locks shut so you cannot escape. What do you do? You whip out your tanto-pointed car door-stabbing knife and rip right through that door.
Click to expand...

LOL! :D

Yeah, that happened to me the other day... :jerkit:
 
I bought some baked beans the other day, and they came in a car door instead of the usual tin can... I thought it was a little weird, but since I had my Cold Steel Car-Door-Piercer in my pocket, I just opened it right up and had my lunch.
Peace.
 
For reasons of principle, which I will not elaborate here, I will not purchase Benchmade products, so can't compare the relative strength of the locks. Would say that I am sure an engineer with an agenda could devise a test to make either one appear superior.

I have used my Stretch a few times to puncture the bottom of cans so the cranberry sauce would slide out and will probably do so again. Never gave the possibility of lock failure a second thought.
 
a car door isn't much; especially piercing, where the lock itself wouldn't get much stress at all.
 
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