Strop cleaning and maintenance

jsp

Basic Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
378
I'm just wondering what are you guys doing to clean and maintain your leather strops? What I've been doing is after it gets loaded up, I clean it with a micro fiber cloth/rag with mineral spirits and let it dry before applying stropping compound or diamond emulsion spray. Of course, I don't mix different micron levels to avoid contamination. Curious to hear what others are doing which may shed some light in this area.
 
I use WD-40 to clean the leather and it also conditions it a bit with the oil. This prevents the compound from soaking in to dry leather and making it easier to spread evenly.

On the extreme end, when the strop is nicked up, ill take it to my beltsander or use an orbital sander to smooth the surface. I then use a wooden stick to burnish the surface so its closed in, smooth, and firm. I finish with WD-40 and let dry before adding compound.
 
I use WD-40 to clean the leather and it also conditions it a bit with the oil. This prevents the compound from soaking in to dry leather and making it easier to spread evenly.

On the extreme end, when the strop is nicked up, ill take it to my beltsander or use an orbital sander to smooth the surface. I then use a wooden stick to burnish the surface so its closed in, smooth, and firm. I finish with WD-40 and let dry before adding compound.
I've heard of people using WD-40. Do you spray it directly on the leather or apply it on a rag and give it a rub down? Also, what sandpaper grit is recommended if the strop will be loaded for 1 micron? I've also heard of people applying some type of balm to condition the strop but don't know what it is.
 
When I was using compounded strops, I cleaned them with either WD-40 or isopropyl alcohol. I'd suggest, if doing so, it's better to apply the solvent to a microfiber towel and wipe the leather with that. Don't get the leather too wet with it. I had one experience getting the leather too moist with WD-40. Some of it leeched through the leather and loosened the adhesive bond to the block underneath the leather. The leather started peeling away from the block. This happened with a strop block I'd made myself.

And for sanding, I found that garnet sandpaper at coarse grit, like 100 grit or so, works very well. It's the type of sandpaper generally recommended for wood. There's little risk for contamination this way - the grit is large enough that if some of it comes off the paper, it won't embed in the leather and can simply be brushed off. Wrap the sandpaper around a wooden block and use a light touch for sanding - nothing heavy at all. If you feel you need to, use a vacuum cleaner to follow the sanding. In my experience, I seldom needed to do that, as the grit from the sandpaper never created any issues on the leather. Sanding will leave the surface of the leather with a velvety nap at first. But after application of compound and a little use, the nap on the leather surface will smooth out. This is a very easy and effective way to thoroughly clean a strop. It works very well.

Avoid using silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper on leather. The grit is more friable, and the paper will shed SiC dust, which is much more likely to embed and contaminate the leather.
 
Last edited:
When I was using compounded strops, I cleaned them with either WD-40 or isopropyl alcohol. I'd suggest, if doing so, it's better to apply the solvent to a microfiber towel and wipe the leather with that. Don't get the leather too wet with it. I had one experience getting the leather too moist with WD-40. Some of it leeched through the leather and loosened the adhesive bond to the block underneath the leather. The leather started peeling away from the block. This happened with a strop block I'd made myself.

And for sanding, I found that garnet sandpaper at coarse grit, like 100 grit or so, works very well. It's the type of sandpaper generally recommended for wood. There's little risk for contamination this way - the grit is large enough that if some of it comes off the paper, it won't embed in the leather and can simply be brushed off. Wrap the sandpaper around a wooden block and use a light touch for sanding - nothing heavy at all. If you feel you need to, use a vacuum cleaner to follow the sanding. In my experience, I seldom needed to do that, as the grit from the sandpaper never created any issues on the leather. Sanding will leave the surface of the leather with a velvety nap at first. But after application of compound and a little use, the nap on the leather surface will smooth out. This is a very easy and effective way to thoroughly clean a strop. It works very well.

Avoid using silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper on leather. The grit is more friable, and the paper will shed SiC dust, which is much more likely to embed and contaminate the leather.
What he said…
I have never used wd-40, I just scrape off any building up (I actually use an old chisel), lightly sand with the machine running and reapply a little honing oil and compound. I use powered strops, 1x30 leather belts and Tormek honing wheels. I really like the leather after it’s sanded. I feel that because of the roughed up leather the strops hold more compound and are more efficient.
So far it gets the job done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jsp
What he said…
I have never used wd-40, I just scrape off any building up (I actually use an old chisel), lightly sand with the machine running and reapply a little honing oil and compound. I use powered strops, 1x30 leather belts and Tormek honing wheels. I really like the leather after it’s sanded. I feel that because of the roughed up leather the strops hold more compound and are more efficient.
So far it gets the job done.
Exactly. :thumbsup:

I noticed, the first time I sanded mine, the nap in the leather would take and hold much more of the stick compound I was using. Sometimes smooth leather doesn't accept the stick compounds too gracefully, leaving the surface unevenly coated, streaky and/or lumpy with compound. The nap of the sanded leather will easily take a dense and even layer of the compound. For a strop that's used for removing heavy burrs or doing some fast polishing, it works great.
 
Last edited:
I scrap off the old compound with a razor blade or with a wire brush before reloading the strop with new compound.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jsp
Back
Top