Strop field kit from Altoid tin

cabdmd

cabdmd

Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
100
I thought this was a good idea for a really compact strop field kit. I used contact cement to attach the leather after it was cut to the shape of the tin.

FieldKit_zps363be3cd.jpg


Insidekit_zps4f68ca2c.jpg
 
I see two different compound bars in your tin, but only one strop. Is there a second strop on the other side of the box?


Stitchawl
 
KrabbyKakes
You could buy some DMT credit card stones and then you would have a full kit
Click to expand...

I didn't know about those, but the extrafine would be a nice addition.

stitchawl
I see two different compound bars in your tin, but only one strop. Is there a second strop on the other side of the box?
Click to expand...

I just hadn't decided which one to use but probably the white one.
 
cabdmd said:
What compound would you recommend for the field?
Click to expand...

So much depends on the steel and how you'll be using your knife. If you use the knife pretty hard, and more work is needed to restore your edge, a coarser compound may be better. On the other hand, if you reserve the knife for more fine-slicing tasks, the finer one may be enough to keep the edge in top shape. Depending on how you're going to sharpen the blade on stones, the size and tenacity of burrs left will also be a factor. Typically, green compound on a small surface-area strop won't be aggressive enough to clean up bigger and more stubborn burrs. That's where a more aggressive compound, like black (silicon carbide, specifically) or coarser aluminum oxide can be a plus.

You might take some time to use each of your compounds on other separate strops, to see which one will suit you best. Part of this depends on which compound leaves a coarser finish. If you first use the coarser compound on your new field strop, and decide later that the finer one would be better, you'll likely want to replace the leather with a clean piece. Embedded particles of coarser compound in the strop will effectively negate any benefit from the finer compound.

I'm betting your 'white' compound is coarser than the green (most aluminum oxide 'white' compounds are), but there's a huge range of variability in white compounds. Green is very small (typically) in particle size, and is usually used after a 'white' compound, for finishing. But some 'white' compounds will be of a softer abrasive (like tin oxide or talc, for example), and may not be as aggressive. That's why I suggest trying each on separate strops for a while, to see which one performs to a finer degree, and also to determine which will work best as a stand-alone field solution.


David
 
I was told this.
The approximate average micron values would be... black 4, white 2.5 or converted to an approximate American standard grit of 5k, 9k.

The steel would be 1095 cro-van from Ka-Bar, and the use is field dressing deer and camp use. I would not be bushcrafting.
 
cabdmd said:
I was told this.
The approximate average micron values would be... black 4, white 2.5 or converted to an approximate American standard grit of 5k, 9k.

The steel would be 1095 cro-van from Ka-Bar, and the use is field dressing deer and camp use. I would not be bushcrafting.
Click to expand...

You might like the white (and/or black) better for those uses, assuming the white is aluminum oxide. Sounds like a somewhat coarse edge may be more useful, and the more aggressive compounds may work better with it. Green compound is great for very refined shaving edges, especially on simple carbon steels like 1095.

I'd still spend some time getting acquainted with each of the compounds on separate strops, before firmly committing to one or the other on your field kit.


David
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top