Strop phase..proven methods to test an edge

Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
1,135
So what's your favorite way to make sure you have the perfect edge?
To clarify, I'm talking about once you get to the strop phase, and have used it..and you want a cross check just to make sure there's no remnant of a burr.
One weird way, that helps better than a fingernail scrape, is sometimes I'll use a coke can, or a BL can :), and use the same angle as on the strop..I guess, it's the paint/give of the aluminum, but seems pretty sensitive to help me determine whether I got it all..what about you?
 
If it whittles hair at the heel, middle of the blade, and tip, and the whole blade feels "sticky" sharp to my fingers, I feel ok carrying it. I usually know when it's sharp enough, and the tests are more or less just to satisfy my obsession :p
 
The cutting never lies.

^I say that, because I've found that a long, deliberate and slow slice of the blade through some fine paper, like phonebook pages, can reveal a lot about whether a burr is present. Even better, if this test is done immediately after stropping, followed by a few strokes cross-grain through some hardwood, followed by the same paper-slicing test again.

After honing on stones, it's likely at least some burrs will be present. If doing the same paper-slicing test at that stage, you'd likely see the edge snag and/or slip over the paper's edge, indicating presence of large/coarse burrs that are likely folded or bent to one side or the other. Followed by stropping, hopefully the burrs will at least be straightened out, as should be indicated by less snagging or slipping in the paper. Following that, drawing the blade edge through some hardwood, like oak, will reveal if the edge has any weakened steel on it (burrs, even if aligned straight), when the paper-slicing test is done yet again. If the burrs alone were primarily responsible for the fine slicing, the cutting performance will likely drop way off after scrubbing the edge through the hardwood. On the other hand, if the remaining edge geometry and apex are in good shape after the burrs are scrubbed off in the hardwood, the cutting performance will not degrade, and will likely even improve by becoming smoother and more effortless. That's when you can be more confident your edge is in good shape.

The idea is that a fully-apexed and crisp edge of strong, burr-free steel will continue to cut effortlessly after some strokes through the wood, while a poorly-ground edge that's not free of the burrs and other weakened remnants will almost immediately go dull, following the same scrubbing through the hardwood.


David
 
If you really want to test for a burr (though not necessarily for sharpness,) try cutting a cotton ball...
If there is the slightest burr or imperfection in the edge, the filaments of cotton will let you know immediately.


Stitchawl
 
Tissues, cut them. :)

Imperfect edges will catch and it's impossible to fudge.

I use stropping tapes, so delicate that it's impossible to use a sharpie to make sure the angle is spot on, the sharpie ink is too sticky and will tear away the grit from the tape.
 
The cutting never lies.

^I say that, because I've found that a long, deliberate and slow slice of the blade through some fine paper, like phonebook pages, can reveal a lot about whether a burr is present. Even better, if this test is done immediately after stropping, followed by a few strokes cross-grain through some hardwood, followed by the same paper-slicing test again.






























This is good stuff! I think a lot of people slice paper with a wire edge or a burr, think they have a great edge, then have the edge go to crap the first time they "really" use it.
Unfortunately some of these same people get on BF and trumpet about the horrible edge retention that 8%c8max steel has.
The more I learn about sharpening, the more I realize I don't know. Proper testing after sharpening is one of those things. Russ

After honing on stones, it's likely at least some burrs will be present. If doing the same paper-slicing test at that stage, you'd likely see the edge snag and/or slip over the paper's edge, indicating presence of large/coarse burrs that are likely folded or bent to one side or the other. Followed by stropping, hopefully the burrs will at least be straightened out, as should be indicated by less snagging or slipping in the paper. Following that, drawing the blade edge through some hardwood, like oak, will reveal if the edge has any weakened steel on it (burrs, even if aligned straight), when the paper-slicing test is done yet again. If the burrs alone were primarily responsible for the fine slicing, the cutting performance will likely drop way off after scrubbing the edge through the hardwood. On the other hand, if the remaining edge geometry and apex are in good shape after the burrs are scrubbed off in the hardwood, the cutting performance will not degrade, and will likely even improve by becoming smoother and more effortless. That's when you can be more confident your edge is in good shape.

The idea is that a fully-apexed and crisp edge of strong, burr-free steel will continue to cut effortlessly after some strokes through the wood, while a poorly-ground edge that's not free of the burrs and other weakened remnants will almost immediately go dull, following the same scrubbing through the hardwood.


David
Good stuff here! Russ
 
My acid test of burr removal is to very very lightly scrape the edge across some wood at a steep angle, maybe 70-80 degrees or so. Check, flip, and repeat. If this fails to turn up a burr, there's none to be found.
 
If you really want to test for a burr (though not necessarily for sharpness,) try cutting a cotton ball...
If there is the slightest burr or imperfection in the edge, the filaments of cotton will let you know immediately.
Stitchawl

I keep a cup full of Q-tips next to my Wheels to run over my edges to see if they are smooth and burr free as a part of the sharpening process. If done with a light touch, it will quickly show up by snagging along the edge.

Blessings,

Omar
 
I deburr with lighter and lighter strokes alternating more and more until I'm just "kissing" the stone at one-to-one alternate strokes... until I can't detect the burr with my finger. And then I go a little more. That does it. It should be burr free before stropping. Stropping is just the icing on the cake.
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much everyone!.some great advice from you...Obsessed, special thanks to you for the detail :).
 
Last edited:
Back
Top