Strop Plan w/Pictures (Need Insights)

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I have enough of this leather to make 2 strops. My thoughts were to make one smooth and one rough strop. Am I on the right path here? What side would lend itself to loading green chromium on it. Thinking of using wood glue to attach it to the wood surface. Any insights would be great.
 
From my own strop, I find the smooth side preferable.

I have a 4 sided strop that I used 3 sides smooth, and one rough side. Though the rough side is much much smoother than what you have there.
 
From my own strop, I find the smooth side preferable.

I have a 4 sided strop that I used 3 sides smooth, and one rough side. Though the rough side is much much smoother than what you have there.

So based on this. Maybe 2 smooth strops and load one up with chromium and leave the other plain leather
 
The 'rough' side will load lots of green compound. The 'smooth' side will hardly load any.

I used both sides to make strops. Green compound on the rough sides. Diamond paste on the smooth sides.

BTW, I use the veg-tanned leather from Hobby Lobby and both sides are smoother than yours.
 
With green compound, I'd sand the smooth side a little bit to raise some nap in it. After sanding, it'll be rough enough to take and hold the compound very well, but still smooth enough to produce better results than the rough side of the leather likely will. And that 'nap' in the leather will still smooth out again and become somewhat 'shiny' with use, so there's no worry about losing the advantages of a smooth strop anyway. Most of the run-of-the-mill veg-tanned leather I've seen is often too rough or irregular/coarse/bumpy on the rough side, and I've seldom liked how it feels under a blade's edge when stropping on it. There are exceptions though; my favorite 'green' strop is the rough side of a leather belt I'd purchased from Cabela's a few years ago. I applied some dry powder green compound to it, and then affixed that dry compound into the leather by rubbing some mineral oil-based hand lotion over it, mainly just to keep the dust down in usage of it. Turns out that's a great way to extend the useful life of the compound on the strop; it really holds the compound well, and I've not needed to refresh it as often as I'd assumed I would. That particular strop has consistently been the best finisher for my blades in 1095, CV and simple stainless like 420HC. I use it like a barber's (hanging) strop, BTW.


David
 
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With green compound, I'd sand the smooth side a little bit to raise some nap in it. After sanding, it'll be rough enough to take and hold the compound very well, but still smooth enough to produce better results than the rough side of the leather likely will. And that 'nap' in the leather will still smooth out again and become somewhat 'shiny' with use, so there's no worry about losing the advantages of a smooth strop anyway. Most of the run-of-the-mill veg-tanned leather I've seen is often too rough or irregular/coarse/bumpy on the rough side, and I've seldom liked how it feels under a blades edge when stropping on it. There are exceptions though; my favorite 'green' strop is the rough side of a leather belt I'd purchased from Cabela's a few years ago. I applied some dry powder green compound to it, and then affixed that dry compound into the leather by rubbing some mineral oil-based hand lotion over it, mainly just to keep the dust down in usage of it. Turns out that's a great way to extend the useful life of the compound on the strop; it really holds the compound well, and I've not needed to refresh it as often as I'd assumed I would. That particular strop has consistently been the best finisher for my blades in 1095, CV and simple stainless like 420HC. I use it like a barber's (hanging) strop, BTW.


David

What grit sandpaper would you recommend to "rough it up" with?
 
What grit sandpaper would you recommend to "rough it up" with?

Doesn't need anything special; I've just used what was handy. In my case, I think it was some garnet sandpaper (made for wood, mainly) around ~150-grit or so. But any coarse/medium grit sandpaper should be enough to raise some 'velvety' nap on the leather; that's all it needs to make the leather accept the compound much more easily. Wrap the piece of sandpaper around a wooden block to simplify the sanding. Make sure to brush or vacuum off the leather after the sandpaper, to eliminate any possible leftover grit from remaining behind. Leather sands very easily with a light touch, so there's not much chance of grit being scrubbed off the paper while sanding it.


David
 
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