Strop recommendations?

D

Dsun

Joined
Sep 6, 2015
Messages
59
Hey all,
I just got my large Sebenza 21 a couple of days ago and I am loving it so far:) But now I am thinking about purchasing a new strop. I've never stropped knives before so this would be my first experience with stropping. I've heard it is better than a sharpening stone because it achieves higher level of sharpness? Anyway, I would just like to hear some recommendations for a nice strop that is not too expensive 20-30$$.
Thanks
 
williamisthe1 said:
knives plus strop block is pre loaded with compound around that price
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X2..

I'm new to stropping as well. After using some cardboard, denim, copier paper, etc.. I got some nice leather from a friend and some compound, which worked as it should.
I ended up buying a knives plus strop anyways..
I'm glad I did. I like it and works great.

That and it took the guess work out of the whole, compound, side of it..
Is it applied right, is it too much, not enough, the "right" kind, etc..

For the 23$, is well with it. IMO
 
I own 2 Flexx strops, 2 Stropman strops, a knives plus strop, and 2 MarkusB (eBay seller) strops. Flexx and Stropman are finished beautifully with top quality materials. Flexx uses harder leathers. The MarkusB strops are roughly finished but have great leather. They are a fraction of the cost of Flexx and Stropman and there is no wait. My jumbo strop from MarkusB was custom made to my specs at no extra charge and it arrived at my door in less that a week. All I use is my MarkusB jumbo strop now. I love it.
 
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If you're just starting out with strops and all you're doing is the large 21, I'd also suggest starting with Knives Plus' Strop Block. It's a good way to get started until you're confident enough to either build your own or branch out into other materials / compounds / sprays that tailor the results to your liking.

Stropping after use can cut down on the amount of actual sharpening that you have to do. It tends to straighten and refine the existing edge rather than remove enough metal to create a new edge. Just remember that there is a learning curve to stropping, like there is to anything else. Knives Ship Free has some good videos on their web site that show some stropping techniques. Work slowly and use light pressure... no more than what you 'd use shaving your face with a safety razor (non-electric razor), maybe a little less in the beginning. Try to hold the same angle as the bevel so that you're not rounding the edge.
 
I second the KnivesPlus block as a good starter strop. Takes a bit of practice though, but just keep at it and you'll figure it out.
 
i started out just like you! never even new what a strop was,letalone how to use one,so i ended up building my own with some leather and 1x2x12 pine got me some green compound and there we go! vary easy to build, good luck.
 
Dsun said:
Hey all,
I just got my large Sebenza 21 a couple of days ago and I am loving it so far:) But now I am thinking about purchasing a new strop. I've never stropped knives before so this would be my first experience with stropping. I've heard it is better than a sharpening stone because it achieves higher level of sharpness? Anyway, I would just like to hear some recommendations for a nice strop that is not too expensive 20-30$$.
Thanks
Click to expand...

A strop could be as simple as wrapping some kraft paper around a bench stone and smearing with compound, mud from you stone with oil etc.

There is a good recipe for casing your own leather that Stitchawl was kind enough to lay out very clearly.


Step by step:
1. Wet the leather. No need to soak it for any length of time. Running it under the tap for a second or two, front and back, is enough.
2. VERY IMPORTANT - let the leather dry for a while. Before you wet it it was a light tan color. Water darkened it a lot. Let it dry until it's about half-way back to its original color. At THAT point it will be almost as squishy as modeling clay.
3. Use a large diameter rolling pin, the heavier the better. Marble pastry pins are great for this, but even a piece of 3-4" PCV pipe will work. Now start rolling on the smooth side of the leather. Roll from end to end evenly, bearing down on the roller. Do this for 4-5 minutes, not just one minute. This will firm up the leather. If you are going to use this for a bare leather strop, roll it for 10-15 minutes. The rolling will force more silicates to migrate to the top of the leather.
4. Let it dry naturally, then glue to a backing or use as a hanging strop.

Keep in mind that any natural oil... ANY oil... is going to soften the leather. Makes no difference if it's Lexol or Olive oil. Lexol is more compatible with leather. Olive oil won't hurt it. But both will soften the leather... Soooo... if you really want a good firm strop, but need to put some sort of strop conditioner on it, dab it on a finger tip and rub it out well. Don't paint it on with a brush, or rub it on with a saturated cloth, or pour it on and rub away the excess. None of the above will harm the leather, but they will significantly soften the leather more than is needed to preserve it. The strop conditioner I use on my grandfathers old hanging strop has the consistency of thicker Vaseline, and I use less than a pea-size for the entire strop once a year. My grandfather used it every day as did my dad. I'm guessing that this stop is about 75 years old... and the leather looks brand new.


Stitchawl
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Is a bit more than you are quoting to spend, but I make a sharpening block (linked through my signature below) that works very well with papers and films, easily customized for whatever finish you want. Here is a pic of it being used with (one on the left is the current larger model) some 3 micron diamond grit on polyester film. The smaller one on the right is one of the older models, that one is wrapped in paper dosed with some of the swarf and perhaps a bit diamond residue I reclaimed off the coarse DMT diamond plate used with water. Coming off the plates a few passes on the compound and a few on the reclaimed swarf for for a mirror polish.

Beauty of it is it works well in a variety of modes from sharpening to stropping. It comes with its own honing compound intended to be used on regular copy paper or similar as a strop, as well as some silicon carbide sandpaper for actual sharpening.

WB_Strop_zpsksdgm3mo.jpg


As mentioned, is more than you quoted but at least food for thought - a strop does not have to be leather glued to a board or hanging from a D ring.

Whatever you go with, if you envision using it for ongoing maintenance make the strop as hard as you can get it. Do as much work on the stones as possible leading up to the stropping phase as well - the less you ask of it the better your results will be.
 
I like the Richmond stropping system, with a steel base plate and various large, high-quality stopping pads in various materials with magnetic bases. You can swap out bases that are loaded with different honing compounds. Chef Knives To Go has some, along with videos. The base plate is about $20, and the stopping pads are $8 to $15 each, depending on what material you want -- balsa, leather, etc. You can add to the system as your finances allow.
 
Buy a used leather belt from the thrift store. Make sure it is actual leather that is fairly well worn on the inside. Make sure it does not have stitched seams. Put some compound on the inside of it and you are good to go.
 
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