Strop repair and leather belts

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May 23, 2017
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I've had an old razor strop hanging up on the wall for ages, but I've never used it as someone cut the handles off it long before I got it. I'll start with a warning that this is far from a good example of my leather work. I used to do saddle and harness repair, this is killing time while waiting for the coffee to work.

Anyways, here is the strop, with the replacement handles I cut from some 12oz brown harness leather. My small sewing machine could have easily managed, but purely for personal enjoyment I pulled out my big Pearson.

Oiled her up, and installed a fresh Torrington #5 needle along with a new spool of 277 nylon thread. She'll sew an inch of saddle skirting like its fabric, by far the most wonderful sewing machine I've ever encountered.

Remember what I said about this not being my best work? Yeah..... In my not paying attention I stitched it on crooked....



It'll work though, so I can't complain all that much

Now onto the leather belt. I've been wanting one for a while, but could never be bothered coughing up the cash for one. I decided to make one for my 1x42 Kalamazoo to see how I like it. Started with a 7/8 wide strip of 9oz Herman oak. It's a bit narrow and probably a bit thick, but I had it laying around as leftover from making some tack and couldn't really be bothered cutting a new one.

I cut it 44" long to make room for the skive. Now you could cut the skive by hand, but one of these Landis 3in1 machines makes it perfect in seconds.

Make sure you don't cut the skives on the same side of the belt, otherwise you'll need to start over.

I used two coats of contact cement on the joint, and after pounding it together as usual I stuck it in a vise for a while, just to insure it gets a real good bond.

In an hour or so I'll clean up the joint, and post as to whether it works perfectly or breaks right away
 
Curious how that lap holds. I tried making one then gave up and bought one. It was worth it. I love having it. Hope you have better luck.
 
I have a leather belt for my 1x42, but I don't care for it. Maybe if it could be slowed down, but it can't. I feel I'm as likely to round over the edge as I am to just get the burr off. I find I get better results just using a manual strop than I can get from the leather belt. I think your newly handled razor strop looks mighty fine. Slight angle to the handle shouldn't bother it in the least in practice. Heck might even be more comfortable.
 
Well I've had it running for half an hour or so, and the skive is working great. I don't really like it all that much though.... Very easy to round the edge off, even the buffer is easier to do a good job with. The strop on the other hand works wonderfully, and I have a feeling will be what I use from now on. So much faster to use than the typical leather on wood strops. Just takes a bit of care to keep the angles even.
I have one strip with white buffing compound, and the other just plain horsehide
 
I think that's the key kuraki. My little grinder is just a single speed motor with a 6" drive wheel, so the leather belt is cooking pretty fast. I also put green compound on it when I got it, so overall just too aggressive.
 
When I finish building the new grinder I'll try it out again. Running in reverse might help too, I'm used to doing my sharpening edge up on a slack belt, so holding it upsidedown is quite awkward
 
I use a leather belt at 6 hertz, which is about 300 SFM on my grinder I believe. To me, the key is getting the blade sharp enough to shave (or at least scrape) hair before stropping. I use an oil stone and light pressure to remove the main burr and then the strop to remove the microscopic burr formed from that. By starting with an already sharp knife you don't need to strop much, so you don't round or overly polish the edge. You can also get the job done slow and with light pressure so there is less risk of microscopic over heating at the apex.

I use green strop paste loaded with some 1 micron diamond powder. This is a sharp free cutting fine strop dope that does the job with very light pressure, which helps you maintain your geometry.
 
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