Strop tips... help?! confused

VampyreWolf

VampyreWolf

Joined
Feb 12, 2001
Messages
3,415
I picked up a strop as an unexpected extra in a trade.

I have been using the case from my 303MF DoubleStuff, nothing added.

What paste/rouge should I put on the strop? We have a Machinist Supply store and a jewelery shop(who I asked last fall and will sell rouge) that I can get from.

I asked the jewelery shop last fall when I was in machining and doing some final polishing on SS, and they sold me some for that, so I know I can get from them. I managed to mirror polish the scales I'm still making(1 hole away, the d-pin for the pivot) and the workings of my cricket.

The strop I recieved is about 3" across, and about 12" long, 1/8" thick... smooth on one side, rough on the other, hole punched in both ends to attach it to a bench or shelf.

any help? I already read all I could find, but am confused on which paste/rouge, and which side to apply to.
 
VampyreWolf

I have a Lee Valley Tools leather strop (leather glued on a wooden handle) and I use Veritas green honing compound on it (also from Lee Valley tools). I'm not sure if it's right, but I'd use mainly the smoother side with honing compound to strop the blade.
 
For high-alloy stainless steels like BG-42 and 440V I only strop lightly without using any buffing compound. The buffing compounds and heavy stropping seems to dull the edge. For non-stainless alloys and softer fine-grained stainless like AUS-8 or 12C27 I like to use green chromium oxide buffing compound. (This is all for knife blades rather than straight razors).
 
fulloflead> read that one as it was happening... have to read it again though... forgot to bookmark it before.

Jeff Clark, 4 s ter> so Veritas green honing/buffing compound for light steels(ie 440C, Aus) and nothing for heavy steels(ie ATS-55, VG-10, 440V(S60V))... and smooth side...
 
Originally posted by Raptor
Hand American

Check this site out. They make great products and they also have good tutorials on stropping and steeling.

--The Raptor--
Click to expand...

Good site Raptor! Thanks... :)


"Hunters seek what they [WANT].., Seekers hunt what they [NEED]"
 
I would would be pessimistic about stropping 440A, 440B, or 440C since they are so high in chrome. I try VG10 either with or without compound since it is a lot like improved AUS-8. The ones that seem to be hard to strop have real high vanadium and/or molybdenum content and a lot of chrome.
 
I just used 440C as another example of my opinion of "light" steels... ATS-55 is right between them depending who you ask.

I have 6A, 8A, ATS-55, VG-10, and 440V(S60V)...

was thinking the VG-10 and 440V would be nothing, the Aus6/8 and the ATS-55 would get the green compound.


ok, another question... strop side, flip, other side, flip... OR strop side till wire shows(15ish strokes), then flip?
 
I use the strop with the Veritas honing compound on all steels AUS-8, AUS-8, AUS-10, ATS-55, CPM440V and VG-10.

I mainly use the stropping to remove the burr left after using the Ultra-fine rods on the Sharpmaker. Only a few strokes on each side, feel for the burr, and repeat until the burr is removed. After that, if the knife is being used regularly, I may use the strop once a week to bring the edge back to hairpopping sharp. I guess this is mainly realligning the edge.

Sal has commented on the use of a strop (remember, he may be a bit biased as the manufacturer of the Sharpmaker). He accepts the use of a strop to remove the burr or wire edge but not as a means of further sharpening the edge. He (if I remember correctly) felt that it would create too fragile an edge.
 
don't have the UF stones... only the Fine... but still manage to get rid of most of my wire.


I normally have been stropping on the case of my 303MF, and can take sharpening down to once every couple weeks, but still sharpen when the stropping doesn't help
 
Hi VW
I've started stropping reciently. I use a Handmade American hard backed strop and Lee Valley stropping compound, and I get very good results on all steels.

Sometimes after stropping an edge can "seem" to be a little less sharp, but generally this is when it has just removed the wire edge, so your ending up with a much better edge.
Even with medium to hard steels like AST-34 and CPM440v the mirror finish is noticable after stopping.

Because you are familiar with freehand sharpening you should have no problem using a hard backed strop.
 
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