Strop

T

tree1

Joined
Jan 19, 2011
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7
I think most people, myself included, generally prefer to strop on the smooth side. However, there are some who like to use the rough side, usually for specific reasons. Some say the rough side works better on convex edges.

I actually sand the smooth side a little, with some medium grit sandpaper. This gives the leather a velvety 'nap', which seems to make the leather 'grab' the edge more noticably. Gives a very nice, tactile feedback when stropping. If used with compound, the nap will help to hold the compound a little better.

Since you've already mounted the leather with both ways up, all I can suggest is that you try both, and decide for yourself which you like best. You might use some coarse sandpaper (wrapped around a block of wood), or maybe even a wire brush, to scrub the rough side a bit. That might help in softening the hard edges.
 
I guess it depends on how technical you get about it. If you look at it for what it is (skin) then the proper side of use is the smooth side. The leather is processed in a way that brings out the silicates in the leather and AFAIK the brunt of them will be in the surface of the skin (smooth side). Sanding the surface works but ruins the effects of the natural leather, good for when applying compound but not something I'd do if using bare.

The rough side of leather is simply the inner layer of skin that attaches to fat tissue. Again it can work for stropping but I have never found it to be nearly as effective and I feel the little "fingers" tend to round over as edge very fast.

Also, check my sig line below for strop making tips.
 
I keep hearing references to the silicates being in the surface of the leather (due to 'processing'), but I've yet to see any explanation/documentation as to why this is the case. What specific process applies? And to which specific types of leather?

With leather that's been specifically treated (boned) for use as strops, I can see that sanding could degrade performance. But for simple veg-tanned leather, I've not seen any degradation in how it performs (I've tried both; actually like sanded better). Veg-tanned is basically just soaked in tanning solution; no indication of why/how silicates end up exclusively at the surface; or how thick the 'surface' supposedly is.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I keep hearing references to the silicates being in the surface of the leather (due to 'processing'), but I've yet to see any explanation/documentation as to why this is the case. What specific process applies? And to which specific types of leather?
Click to expand...

Have you tried Biology Today forum??
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I keep hearing references to the silicates being in the surface of the leather (due to 'processing'), but I've yet to see any explanation/documentation as to why this is the case. What specific process applies? And to which specific types of leather?

With leather that's been specifically treated (boned) for use as strops, I can see that sanding could degrade performance. But for simple veg-tanned leather, I've not seen any degradation in how it performs (I've tried both; actually like sanded better). Veg-tanned is basically just soaked in tanning solution; no indication of why/how silicates end up exclusively at the surface; or how thick the 'surface' supposedly is.
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Likewise, I tried to dig up some more info on the silica content of leathers, how it ends up in the hide, what factors influence silica levels, and came back with a zero.
 
rayban said:
Have you tried Biology Today forum??
Click to expand...


We already know why leather contains natural silicates. Cows eat vegetation, which contains silicates. The silicates are eventually metabolized into the skin (leather). Presumbably, since the silicates are absorbed into the leather from the inside, it would seem to imply that they're more evenly distributed throughout the thickness of the leather, at that point.

My question pertains to why or how those silicates are only found at the OUTER SURFACE of the leather, and specifically in this case, veg-tanned leather. It's been said (repeatedly) that sanding removes silicates that somehow are only present at the surface, due to an as yet unnamed, specific MAN-MADE process (not the biological one), and apparently nowhere else in the leather. I'm asking for an explanation of that man-made process, and specifically what part of that process results in all of the silicates being deposited on the surface. Have anything useful to contribute to answering that question?
 
I believe the process referred to as boning, a compression process that condenses the silicates at the outer layer. I could be wrong but I believe that's how it happens.

leather is like a sharpening stone, each has their own feel and "pull" to the surface that makes them unique. Sanding them down removes this natural feel and texture that makes each unique and effective in their own way.
 
knifenut1013 said:
I believe the process referred to as boning, a compression process that condenses the silicates at the outer layer. I could be wrong but I believe that's how it happens.

leather is like a sharpening stone, each has their own feel and "pull" to the surface that makes them unique. Sanding them down removes this natural feel and texture that makes each unique and effective in their own way.
Click to expand...

In the case of 'boning', I agree, that process does force silicates to the surface. I think it was Stitchawl(?), who provided an excellent explanation of that process, a while back. I was under the impression though, that the boning process was very user-specific, and not applicable to the whole veg-tanning process at large. What I'm getting at, is if a person such as the OP in this case, buys a piece of 'typical' veg-tanned leather from eBay or Tandy or wherever, can it be assumed that that specific piece of leather has been boned, as part of standard processing?
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
My question pertains to why or how those silicates are only found at the OUTER SURFACE of the leather, and specifically in this case, veg-tanned leather. It's been said (repeatedly) that sanding removes silicates that somehow are only present at the surface, due to an as yet unnamed, specific MAN-MADE process (not the biological one), and apparently nowhere else in the leather.
Click to expand...

I've probably mentioned it a dozen or more times in posts about making strops. The process is called 'boning.' In the old days, wet leather was pulled by hand over the rounded end of (first a cow's leg bone) a log. This was done for several days to produce the finest 'Russian Leather' strops. These days it is done by machine and the process can be seen on the Horween leather web site, in the section dealing with shell cordavan leather, which is the very finest horsehide, and best leather to use as a bare strop.
(This is a different process than the 'boning' that is done when folding leather.)
This pulling and pounding forces the silicates to the surface of the leather. When making a strop from vegetable tanned cowhide, 'casing' the leather (which is wetting it and then letting it dry a bit until some of the color returns,) then rolling it with a heavy roller for a few hours, can help to produce a strop with a higher concentration of silicates in the surface.

Sanding the surface, while making a better substrate for compound adhesion, removes a lot of these silicates making the leather less effective when used bare. So if you want to sand, continue to use compound. If you want a finer abrasive (silicates are MUCH smaller than any compound) for an even sharper edge, use the leather bare. Just like barbers do. :)

Stitchawl
 
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I have made several stops using boyh the smooth and rough sides. In my experience when the smooth side is roughed up a little (giving it a bit of a suede appearance) is when it works the best. There is a little texture then that helps hold the compound and I feel that it softens the surface a little giving a better convex. I just don't feel that the skin side holds the bar compounds very well in its natural state. Just my thoughts and experience in strop making and using.
 
Something to remember is that when using compounds on a leather substrate; there is no need to completely cover the leather. There is no need for the compound to be evenly distributed. There is no need for the compound to be thick.

If I may use a talcum powder analogy, imagine sprinking a dusting of talc onto the surface, then blowing off all the excess. You'd still be able to see the leather but there would be a light dusting of white on the surface. THAT is all you need to have when you use compounds on leather. Nothing more. Any more than that is just wasting the stuff and doesn't give you a better surface upon which to sharpen. (More doesn't make it any worse either, even if it's bumpy and lumpy.)

All leather has silicates. Horsehide has more silicates than cowhide. Boned leather has more silicates at the surface than leather that hasn't been processed that way, which means boned horsehide has the most surface silicates, making it the very best medium for bare stropping. That's why the very best barber strops are made from boned horsehide.

Something else to thing about; just gluing a piece of leather onto a stick does NOT make it a great strop. It just makes it a piece of leather on a stick that you can use AS a strop. Shops that charge a lot of money for this deserve no business. Unknowing customers think they are getting something great but instead are just getting some thing. And paying a high price for it. As we all know now, we can by a 12"x12" piece of veg tanned cowhide for $10 and have three or four strops.

Vegetable tanned cowhide has silicates. Boning the cowhide will bring more silicates to the surface, but you can certainly use it without boning and get good results. You'll just get better results if you had boned the leather.

But if you are going to cover it all up with compound, don't bother boning, don't worry about veg tanned or chrome tanned, in fact, don't worry about not using leather at all. It's going to be the compound that's doing the work, not the leather. Sand the surface and slather on some compound. It will work well.

Boning makes it best. If you don't need 'best,' don't bother with that, and just finish with compound. It produces a good edge.

Stitchawl
 
Once again, you've come through, Stitchawl.

You're explanations have always been thoughtful and very informative. There's always something worthwhile to be learned in your posts.

Thanks again. :thumbup:
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Once again, you've come through, Stitchawl.

You're explanations have always been thoughtful and very informative. There's always something worthwhile to be learned in your posts.

Thanks again. :thumbup:
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I think we all get to learn things here in the forums. That's what keeps us all coming back!

Stitchawl
 
Great information on Leather for strops. This is the place for a education. Thanks all.
 
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