stropping compound

Joined
Sep 22, 2003
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Does anybody have a link to where they sell it? Especially the chrome stuff Yvsa has mentioned before. Thanks.
 
I got some from woodcraft.com (local Woodcraft store actually)

It's used as a honing compound for woodcarver's tools.

Also still used as a pigment:
http://www.sewanee.edu/chem/Chem&Art/Detail_Pages/Pigments/Chromium_Oxide
So might find it as paint colorant somewhere.
"Pigment Name/Synonyms/Pigment Code
Chromium oxide is a dull, opaque, olive-green color, identified by the chemical formula Cr2O3. Hydrated chromium oxide is an intense, transparent, bluish-green color identified by the formula Cr2O.H20. Since its introduction chromium oxide has been known by such names as chrome oxide, oxide of chromium, and green oxide of chromium opaque. Chromium oxide was referred to as viridian when it was first discovered. It earned its name from its chemical composition, which is 55.4% chromium, 42.5% oxygen, and 2.1% hydrogen. (Fitzhugh) The official pigment code of chromium oxide is P.Green17 77288 and hydrated chromium oxide is P.Green18 77289. (Rossol)"


Also just found a craft oriented soap-making site selling
"cosmetic grade" chome oxide as a soap colorant.

Ceramic colorant also.
 
I use strops that I made up from leather by HandAmerican. The green stroping compound was obtained from Lee Valley. I generally use a strop on a plane iron, gouge or chisel, but never use it on knives - I use sharpening stones and alter the angle and ultimate finish depending upon ultimate use.

On knives, I will usually start with a Norton India stone or a 1000 grit Shapton waterstone. I'll finish the edge of kitchen knives with a soft Arkansas stone (Norton). Other knives, including Khukuris, get finished on a Dan's white hard select Arkansas stone. For a fishing knife, I'll go up to a black hard Arkansas stone, or a stone that is almost as fine, a Dan's "true hard."

I have never used power tools or a buffer on a knife. If I did, I would want to finish up with chromium oxide compound. I guess that I am old fashioned - I like to remove as little steel from an edge as I can, and I like hand tools.
 
Originally posted by arty
...I like to remove as little steel from an edge as I can, and I like hand tools.
I agree, except that I like power tools too. :D

To remove as little steel as possible, I use the highest grit compounds I can find, or fine micron belts, rather than resharpening at 220 grit every time...

I spend most of my time sharpening at the leather belt...
 
Originally posted by pendentive
To remove as little steel as possible, I use the highest grit compounds I can find,...

I spend most of my time sharpening at the leather belt...

Dan if you ever gradyeate to a 2" X 72" grinder/belt-sander, Grizzly Industries has a 6,000 grit belt!!!!:D
 
Yvsa - I do all the sharpening on my 1x42 w/ 5000 grit compound.

the leather belt I have on it has a nick...so who knows...maybe I'll end up getting a 2x72 when it breaks.

can't beat the $15 cost, though

how much is the Grizz?
 
Originally posted by pendentive
how much is the Grizz?

I'll have to look. BRB...:D

In this year's catalog, not dispersed to the outhouse as pages get torn out.:rolleyes: :) The cost for the Grizz Knife Grinder/belt-sander is $295.95 on sale. It's marked down from $349.00.:D
You can get a 10" Aluminum/Rubber Wheel for it for $59.95!!!!
The 6,000 grit belts are $9.95 each for the best quality.

Oh, and the belt speed is 3,600 fpm. Approximate shipping weight is 111 pounds. It doesn't say what the shipping cost is but comparable weight items are $55.00 anywhere in the USA.:D

They have an online catalog, not worth a flip fer the outhouse though.:D ;)
 
I've aleady got a 2x72, Yvsa ;)...just wonderin' about the belt.

I have Trizac belts in the higher grits - but don't like the 2" width...
 
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