Stropping Compounds.

wade7575

wade7575

Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
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I'm looking into getting some stropping compounds to be used with a leather strop,I have not used any of the stropping compounds that come in a wax type of block,I was looking at these on ebay what do you guys think of them and has anyone ever used them before.

I was looking at getting the one in the top link and I'd be suing it on ZT's ELMAX steel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Str...880747?pt=US_Knives_Tools&hash=item1c31ff04ab

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-4oz-Bar...266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3377095872
 
Personally I don't like the wax or crayon style. The paste compounds IMO are much easier to apply and seem to work better.
 
These will give you a 'satisfactory' edge. Without knowing the manufacturer, we can't be sure of the consistency of grit size in the bars, but unless you are doing microscopic examination, the average user won't notice. The results you get, assuming your technique is good, will be fine.

Of the three-bar set, you probably won't use the red one (iron oxide.) That's really for softer metals such as silver and gold polishing. It would take a powered buffer to see a result on steel using this. But the white (aluminum oxide) and the green (chromium oxide) are great for use after your extra fine stones.

The two-bar set again has the white compound, and also a black Emery (aluminum oxide, mixed with iron-bearing spinels hercynite and magnetite. Industrial emery may contain a variety of other minerals and synthetic compounds such as magnesia, mullite, and silica.) There is no way to really know the exact grit size of this particular bar, but with experimentation it can be figured out.In any case, it would be used before the white compound.

Your stropping order would be to first use the Black, then the white, then the green.


Stitchawl
 
Thanks for the help guys I was looking at Veritas Green Honing Compound and I think I may give that a try as well,what do you guy's recommend for gluing the leather to the wood epoxy or just wood glue.
 
wade7575 said:
Thanks for the help guys I was looking at Veritas Green Honing Compound and I think I may give that a try as well,what do you guy's recommend for gluing the leather to the wood epoxy or just wood glue.
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The 'best' glue for working with leather is contact cement. Spread thinly on both pieces, allow 15-20 minutes for it to get tacky, then press together and hammer on it for a virtually unbreakable bond. If you don't have any, use ordinary wood glue, Elmer's White Glue, Tite-bond, etc. All of these are a bit flexible when dry, but Epoxy tends to be brittle. I wouldn't want to use any glue that dries 'hard.' It will work, but eventually it will tear the fibers of the leather and work loose.


Stitchawl
 
I use Elmer's carpenter glue. I place a 2X4 over the top and clamp it down very tightly and allow 24 hours to cure.

I have strops that are 10+ years old and as good as new.

For compounds, go to a lapidary supply or Chef Knives To Go. I can just about guarantee you that Lowe's or Target's "Magic Maroon" isn't going to work as well for you as a name brand such as Ken's, DMT, HandAmerican etc. These makers sell by grit size, not by "color."

Personally, I avoid any wax based or "crayon" type compounds for hand strops. some of those are good for power strops, but IME, not worth the effort for hand strops.

Remember the old Italian proverb:
"Cheapa U buy, cheapa U get!".
 
Stitch awl called it on the contact cement. If you clamp, be very careful. Fresh glue will give off solvents that will "float" the leather away from dead center as it out gasses. I roll my leather to the strop after applying contact cement to the leather and the paddle, giving it 10 to 15 minutes to gas out before applying.
 
Just use the DMT diamond stropping compound.
They go all the way to 1 micro and below if you spend more on the EdgePro stuff.
OR!
You can sharpen with a waterstone and let the granulated water stone particle strop for you. (at 8000grit and beyond stones)
 
Scarface48 said:
Stitch awl called it on the contact cement. If you clamp, be very careful. Fresh glue will give off solvents that will "float" the leather away from dead center as it out gasses. I roll my leather to the strop after applying contact cement to the leather and the paddle, giving it 10 to 15 minutes to gas out before applying.
Click to expand...

I don't know much, but I do know leather. I've been working with it for almost 55 years. :)

I won't put leather together until the glue settles for at least 30-45 minutes. Then I hammer on it with a rounded mallet to insure the bond. While one 'can' use other glues, and many of the flexible adhesives work well, nothing works on leather as well as contact cement when used correctly.


Stitchawl
 
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