Stropping compunds-what to add?

[Leotheo]

So I'm thinking about buying some stone blanks for my EdgePro Apex and gluing some leather to them so I can have precise, repeatable stropping. I currently have all the stones and all three tapes, along with some green chromium oxide compound.
Question is, what should I add to this setup compound-wise? Should I possibly add in some DMT diamond paste? Should I add in one more stone blank so I can strop on bare leather?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
-Leotheo

 

[xmtgx]

Nothing to add u got it covered unless u want smaller then .5 microns

 

[stitchawl]

So I'm thinking about buying some stone blanks for my EdgePro Apex and gluing some leather to them so I can have precise, repeatable stropping. I currently have all the stones and all three tapes, along with some green chromium oxide compound.
Question is, what should I add to this setup compound-wise? Should I possibly add in some DMT diamond paste? Should I add in one more stone blank so I can strop on bare leather?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
-Leotheo

If you are going for the absolutely finest edge you can achieve, bare leather will provide that as the final finishing strop. The silicates in bare leather are smaller than the usual compounds that are offered, and they don't wear out! Just be sure you are using a vegetable tanned leather. Cowhide is good, horsehide is better. For the EdgePro, use a thin but firm leather mounted on a tape blank, or a thick leather (but still firm) mounted on the stone blanks.


Stitchawl

 

[snowalker]

Make sure to "pull" the strop from back to front or you'll carve up your leather pretty quick!

 

[Leotheo]

If you are going for the absolutely finest edge you can achieve, bare leather will provide that as the final finishing strop. The silicates in bare leather are smaller than the usual compounds that are offered, and they don't wear out! Just be sure you are using a vegetable tanned leather. Cowhide is good, horsehide is better. For the EdgePro, use a thin but firm leather mounted on a tape blank, or a thick leather (but still firm) mounted on the stone blanks.


Stitchawl

Its leather I got from Woodcraft thats made for stropping (I don't know what its made out of, as I used the paper that came with it for edge testing...don't judge.)
Define thick: The leather I have is about 2 mm. thick.

Also, in which order would I use the strops and tapes? Would I go to the strop + green compound before or after some of the tapes?

 

[stitchawl]

Its leather I got from Woodcraft thats made for stropping (I don't know what its made out of, as I used the paper that came with it for edge testing...don't judge.)

I think we can safely assume that it's veg tanned cowhide. That's what is normally sold for stropping.

Define thick: The leather I have is about 2 mm. thick.

2mm would be just about in the mid-range of most craft leathers. Leather is usually defined by its weight in ounces. Here's a rough guide you can use;
Ounce MM
1 0.4
2 0.8
3 1.2
4 1.6
5 2
6 2.4
7 2.8
8 3.2
9 3.6
10 4

Most folder sheaths get made out of 5-6oz leather while fixed blade sheaths tend to use a bit heavier at 8-9oz. Better strops will be 8-9oz or heavier. But the fact that you're mounting the strop on a solid substrate, the thickness is only important for matching your angles, rather than the way the strop handles. 2-3oz leather would work just as well as 8-9oz leather. It's not as if you are bearing down on the leather trying to get some 'give' out of it. That's not what stropping flat bevels is all about.

Also, in which order would I use the strops and tapes? Would I go to the strop + green compound before or after some of the tapes?

Stropping should ALWAYS be the last steps in your process, and you really shouldn't have any need to strop for more than a couple of minutes (if even THAT long!) It takes a bit longer to strop on the EdgePro just because of the mechanics of the process. By hand, you'll only see a barber strop for 10-20 seconds before his edge is ready to shave a face. The ONLY reasons one would need to strop longer than that would be if A) they didn't spend enough time with the previous grit, or B) that previous grit size was simply too large to make the next step a strop.

If you are new to stropping, or just want to pick up some great information, check out the 'sticky' at the top of this form called "Stropping: angle plus pressure." It's a wonderful collection of great photos showing just what stropping 'should' be.

Stitchawl