Stropping: how much should one do?

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Sep 23, 1999
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I just finished sharpening up my Sentinel (the one I just found after it being lost for a year) and we are close again.

But this raised a question for me. How much should you strop? Is stropping a 6-8 strokes per side and you're done kind of thing, or is there benefit to sitting for 10 minutes and stropping away?
 
I'm not sure myself, but I noticed that I hardly ever push cut, so I take it easy on the stropping. Less than 10 strokes per side, and not too hard, just enough that the blade bites the leather.

I also don't want to ruin my fine sharpening :) by rounding the edge, so I don't strop much. But do let us know what you find out. I'd like to know how much stropping it takes to undo a good sharpening.
 
Stropping with a high grit buffing compound simply raises the polish, the more you do, the finer the edge gets. How fast this happens depends on the compound used and the blade steel. Get a cheap microscope and you can see this happening. Otherwise just get a piece of paper and note the change in slicing and push cutting ability.

-Cliff
 
I haven't found any hard and fast rules on how much stropping should be done. There are quite a few variables at work. Here are a few of those variables:

1. Sharpening a knife will often leave a small burr. Stropping can remove this small burr, but the time it takes will depend on the size of the burr. If you can feel the burr, just keep stropping until it is gone. A 30X Radio Shack lighted scope can be invaluable at locating the burr, if you can’t feel it.

2. Some steels are much more abrasion resistant than others. One steel may only need a few passes on a strop, to reach a certain level of polish, while other steels will require many more passes.

3. The intended use of the knife is a big issue. Push cuts work better with a very high polish. If you do a lot of push cutting, you may need to strop for a longer period of time.

4. What you’re stropping the knife on can make a huge difference. Stropping a knife on a piece of cardboard is much different than stropping on a piece of 600 grit wet/dry paper.

5. The grind of the knife will also effect how much stropping needs to be done. A convex grind, when properly maintained, is stropped much more often than it is sharpened on a hone. If you let a convex ground knife dull too much, you’ll either have to take a stone to it, or do a heck of a lot of stropping.

In the end, each knife is its own animal. You can become a master of stropping a certain knife, and be completely in the dark when it comes to a new knife. I ran into this when stropping my old 52100 Marbles Fieldcraft, and then stropping a newer Alchemite MC Marbles Plainsman. While the grind of the two knives were similar, the steel was very different.
 
On a well set up edge a few minutes with green buffing compound on leather or cardboard will bring an edge back to peak.
As with the excellent advice above - a cheap lens and some buffing compound will give you a lot of fun learning about different steels - you'll see remarkable differences in the way they polish.
 
The 52100 was easier to strop than the Alchemite MC, when using the 1000 grit wet/dry paper I had sitting around. If I'd had something like 600 grit, there might have been much less difference.
 
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