Stropping on wood

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Barmaley

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Dec 31, 2016
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I read several posts about stropping on balsa wood because it is not softest wood. At the same time some people strop on MDF which I guess is harder than wood. Do people use medium wood? I have several left over boards of cedar which is extremely soft - is it good for stropping? Will pine and oak work? What is the general rule?
 
I carry a piece of hardwood flooring in my truck to strop on. Just a quick fix to straighten a burr. It works but it also refines the edge. DM
 
Depending on how refined the edge is, before you strop, you can strop on most anything and notice some improvement. This could include various types of wood or cardboard, paper or fabric, leather, etc. The main thing is, make sure whatever you're using isn't doing more damage than good. This means the stropping surface should at least be clean and smooth, for starters. If it's excessively dirty or bumpy or irregular on the surface, it may just damage the edge by denting or rolling of the apex.

If you're not seeing any improvement from stropping (on whatever you try), that's a possible indication some additional refinement on a stone could help. On the flipside, if you can give your edge a pass or two (literally) on the thigh of your jeans and notice improvement, that shows your edge is about as fine as you can make it.
 
I have hard time to reconcile two things: if two strokes on almost anything can refine and straighten the edge why two cuts of hard salami on a wooden board do not ruin it back?
 
Barmaley said:
I have hard time to reconcile two things: if two strokes on almost anything can refine and straighten the edge why two cuts of hard salami on a wooden board do not ruin it back?
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The idea being, those two swipes on a strop are removing the weakened remnants of burrs, leaving only strong, stable steel at the apex. So, if done right, the edge is strong & stable enough to not be degraded on a cutting board or in other normal usage.
 
Barmaley said:
I have hard time to reconcile two things: if two strokes on almost anything can refine and straighten the edge why two cuts of hard salami on a wooden board do not ruin it back?
Click to expand...

Obsessed with Edges said:
The idea being, those two swipes on a strop are removing the weakened remnants of burrs, leaving only strong, stable steel at the apex. So, if done right, the edge is strong & stable enough to not be degraded on a cutting board or in other normal usage.
Click to expand...

This. ^

Another way to think of it is, if you didn't strop and left that thin weak steel in place, then it would be "ruined" when you make the cuts. People run into this quite often when they don't properly de-burr. The knife will feel very sharp but after very little use they'll report the knife dulls.
 
I got a wooden plank of unknown genesis (some kind of hard wood) and tried to strop on it. I choose it because it was very flat and smooth. First I can not express how big was the difference in sharpness of the knives!!! I guess my leather strops were not working properly and I need to figure out it. However I got a problem of another kind: the flexcut gold crayon style compound sticks to the wood is lumps. It definately works since it turns black from yellow very quickly and, most important, the knives are getting very sharp. However, I need to scrub that blackened staff between every new knife session. The board itself became glossy and 180 grip paper does not improve it too much. I think if I could get a compound with less wax may improve the situation. Will using softer wood improve the stropping experience or I just need to get another compound which will stick to hardwood?
 
Barmaley said:
I got a wooden plank of unknown genesis (some kind of hard wood) and tried to strop on it. I choose it because it was very flat and smooth. First I can not express how big was the difference in sharpness of the knives!!! I guess my leather strops were not working properly and I need to figure out it. However I got a problem of another kind: the flexcut gold crayon style compound sticks to the wood is lumps. It definately works since it turns black from yellow very quickly and, most important, the knives are getting very sharp. However, I need to scrub that blackened staff between every new knife session. The board itself became glossy and 180 grip paper does not improve it too much. I think if I could get a compound with less wax may improve the situation. Will using softer wood improve the stropping experience or I just need to get another compound which will stick to hardwood?
Click to expand...

Don't worry too much about the appearance of the black stuff on the surface. As long as the strop is working well, that's the key. If or when you do clean it, just wipe the surface with a paper towel or rag. That'll remove the loose swarf on the surface, but it'll still look black - that's OK. You can still apply fresh compound on the surface. Strops blackened like this will continue to work well, even if they look too 'dirty' to believe it.

An alternative approach with stick compounds like that is, apply the compound to a piece of paper laid over or wrapped around the plank. This also works atop one of your sharpening stones, as previously suggested by HeavyHanded. You'll still get the benefit of the firm surface, and the 'dirty stuff' accumulated on the paper can be cleaned simply by tossing the paper and using a new sheet. Can do the same with a scrap of fabric over the hard backing, like denim, linen or canvas. The woven texture of the fabric is more receptive to the compound as well, doing a better job of scrubbing it from the 'crayon' and holding it on the surface in a denser concentration and not as 'lumpy'.

Lots of ways to do this - experiment as much as you can.
 
The difference you're experiencing between the leather and the wood might be in the pressure you're applying. If you press into the leather it can give and round your edge. The wood, being stiffer, would resist this.

Use a very light touch when stropping.
 
a piece of cardboard works well, always available in a pinch
a ol timer cowboy at the Reno gun show tolled
to me about how well Newspaper works for stropping
both work well
 
Barmaley said:
I got a wooden plank of unknown genesis (some kind of hard wood) and tried to strop on it. I choose it because it was very flat and smooth. First I can not express how big was the difference in sharpness of the knives!!! I guess my leather strops were not working properly and I need to figure out it. However I got a problem of another kind: the flexcut gold crayon style compound sticks to the wood is lumps. It definately works since it turns black from yellow very quickly and, most important, the knives are getting very sharp. However, I need to scrub that blackened staff between every new knife session. The board itself became glossy and 180 grip paper does not improve it too much. I think if I could get a compound with less wax may improve the situation. Will using softer wood improve the stropping experience or I just need to get another compound which will stick to hardwood?
Click to expand...

Scuff the board with sandpaper, apply the flexcut, apply one or two drops of mineral oil and rub well into the board. Do not use so much oil that the resulting smear has a lot of mobility. When it loads up just wipe with a rag and reapply.
 
Or as an alternative to oil is a hair dryer. It will soften the compound to a much thinner consistency which works into the wood easier. Spread some compound on the wood and warm up the wood with a dryer and smooth it out. It works into the wood better this way. Haven't tried the oil method though it makes sense. Doesn't cause the wood to swell?
 
Every time I see this thread, I am reminded of Robert Frost. I guess you'll either get it or you won't.

Carry on.
 
sickpuppy1 said:
Or as an alternative to oil is a hair dryer. It will soften the compound to a much thinner consistency which works into the wood easier. Spread some compound on the wood and warm up the wood with a dryer and smooth it out. It works into the wood better this way. Haven't tried the oil method though it makes sense. Doesn't cause the wood to swell?
Click to expand...


Not enough to worry about. Here's an older video where I use it to refine and then strop on the same board. This method can double as a fine/extra fine hone with enough patience, makes a very good edge. In some cultures where quality stone in slab form is not available, sharpening boards were/are common.

If you use too much oil, the abrasive will have too much mobility and the process gets mighty ineffective.

 
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