Stropping question for fat heavy blades

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Jun 21, 2001
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It is easy to strop smaller blades on a leather backed wooden strop (like the one from Veritas). What about bigger blades though? Not only is it pretty tiring, but it seems difficult to keep a consistent angle.

Does anyone ever hold the blade steady and move the strop instead?

I guess the other question is to get a bigger stropping surface.
 
I while back (way back) Grinducci made a giant strop and a fixture to hold his SH's. You might be able to find the thread.

The Busse "air bleeder strop" works pretty well on large knives.

I use a mouse pad and fine grit sandpaper, not sure what grit a used piece of 600 grit is, but it makes for a nice polished edge, and it works on my re-curves.
 
I while back (way back) Grinducci made a giant strop and a fixture to hold his SH's. You might be able to find the thread.

The Busse "air bleeder strop" works pretty well on large knives.

I use a mouse pad and fine grit sandpaper, not sure what grit a used piece of 600 grit is, but it makes for a nice polished edge, and it works on my re-curves.

Do you move the knife against the strop....or move the strop against the knife?
 
When steeling or using a ceramic rod (or Sharpmaker stone) on big knifes I fix the blade and move the stone.

Randucci's strop method was to fix the blade and move the strop.

When I strop or polish, I move the blade, I'll put the mouse pad & paper on the edge of the counter, hanging over a bit, The pad rolls over the counter edge, and I focus my energy there. The counter edge gives me a reference, so I can keep a more or less consistent angle.

Works ok for me up to BM length, haven't tried it on an AK.

I figure if I'm up to the strop step, the edge angle is defined and the knife is sharp, mostly I'm try not to dull it
 
I move the blade along the strop. I am currently using a Veritas strop, but since I've been making sheaths I have some leather and plan to make a wider one. On occasion I have moved the strop under the blade, but I don't do it regularly.
 
Perhaps a leather belt from HandAmerica and the cheapo belt grinder from harbor freight?

Even with a 3" barbers strop the big blades take forever.

Power stropping might be a viable alternative.

You ought to post this same question in the Toolshed sub forum.

Rob
 
It's funny - I've got a HF 1"x30" belt sander and after I strop with the 1x30 leather belt charged with 5micron Veritas stuff, I can still get it a bit sharper with a little stropping by hand afterwards!
 
I just don't like stropping very much. I've had good results with CR paste on a hone but just feel it is not necessary. I prefer large bench stones. I use a 12 inch DMT fine (red) diamond benchstone and when I'm done with that I go to a 12 inch Arkansas Translucent (very expensive). I get great results with this setup. If the edge is really messed up I start with a DMT Coarse (Black) benchstone also. When I have the time I use a hard Arkansas between the Red DMT and the Translucent but it really isn't necessary. The translucent gives the edge a beautiful polished look and gets it really sharp.My 2 sense. Cheers, Alex.
 
I also use stones.

Primarily Japanese man made followed by either Japanese natural or Arkansas. Depends on the steel and condition of edge.

As I understand it, stropping is a reasonably quick affair and is only used to knock an existing edge into line. (under magnification the edge will show up a little like a sawblade before this is done. ie. with tiny serrations tilted in both directions.)

I use a static mop (on a benchgrinder) on my woodcarving tools. This takes the place of stropping. I use a reasonable aggressive compound but try to be quick and careful.

In the old days everyone stropped their freshly sharpened chisels across their palms. Aaaiiii !
 
I move the knife not the strop we all do things differently though. This morning I was working on a asymmetrical edge on a NO-e I just traded one of the great members here for. It had a little ding and the edge needed to be straightened out a little so I steeled, went to ceramics, then polished up and fine honed with 1200 grit backed by rubber workout mat on my tool bench and put a fine polish on with my strop. It's rediculously sharp. I do the same method with bigger and smaller knifes. For some reason it's harder for me to hone a smaller knife than it is to hone a large BM :p

The NO-e is probably one of the easiest knives to sharpen too!
 
there is an art to stropping, luckily I'm mastering it... if done properly, I only need to strop for 10 minutes then my CGFBM is RAZOR sharp :thumbup:
 
there is an art to stropping, luckily I'm mastering it... if done properly, I only need to strop for 10 minutes then my CGFBM is RAZOR sharp :thumbup:

Can you explain some of that 'art'. For example, it seems like maybe one wants just the right amount of 'friction' as the blade slides against the strop....hard for me to define beyond that..... but if you have a trick or two we'd all like to know.

Thanks
 
rt014, no probs! :D

OK, a common mishap when stropping is putting to much pressure on the strop... leather is a plyable material, and push the blade into it enough when stropping, and the leather will actually start to dull the blade... the leather will start to roll ever so slightly around the edge... as you strop the knife, the depressed leather under the blade will naturally return to completely flat once you have passed over it, and its this transition that ruins stropping most of the time...

Here is a really REALLY basic example (cos I'm sat on my bed :)) - put your hand on your pillow, and push down, as if your hand was the knife, and your nails were where the blade edge is... you see that the pillow depresses with the pressure from your hand... now, pull your hand down the pillow, in the same way as you would your knife, and you'll see that the pillow will return to its normal state, and it does this right near your nails... at a microscopic level, you will find that as a leather strop is passed over, if there is too much pressure, it will raise back up to normal at a much more abtuse angle, and therefore is likely to round off the edge that you've spent ages getting sharp with stones or sandpaper...

I find the key is to place your blade on the strop, and ever so slightly, push the blade towards the leather, raising the angle as you do so... once you feel it bite into the leather, stop... this is the angle you want to use and maintain whilst stropping your blade... (when finding the angle, DO be light, otherwise you'll cut up your strop)... then, with a steady hand, just keep this angle and drag towards you, and REALLY try to keep a steady hand and angle... if you move your hand too much, your are again in danger of removing that sharp edge and rounding it off... LOTS OF PEOPLE DO THIS, and then give up...

When you strop, if you have the correct angle, you should feel a kind of bite on the blades edge, its very small, but it doesn't feel smooth. That is because the edge is where its meant to be... as a human being, you will naturally raise the angle very slightly, depending on how careful you are (if you are not, you will raise TOO much at the end of the drag, and again, round your edge).


It takes a little practice... maybe start off with a penknife or small folder... I being a novive, and not knowing otherwise, just started with my FBM, but must have had beginners luck.


I believe the trick is to be slow, precise and deliberate, rather than trying to be quick... you'll only end up being inaccurate and putting more time into it, or even going back to your stones/sandpaper...

As I said, practice, and you'll be getting the edge you want with maybe 10 minutes on your strop...


Good compound is recommended, although I've also done stropping on a belt that I was wearing, and obviously couldn't have compound on that... and it still got very sharp :D


Sorry if this didn't make sense, its early in the morning, but I swear I've not been smoking crack.


Any more questions, just ask away!

:thumbup:
 
That was a great description hawkinsa21. Thanks for taking the time.

One other quick question....how often do you find that you need to 'charge' your strop with additional compound? When it starts getting black?
 
Another suggestion I've heard, I think it on one of the leather strop mfgrs sites.

Is at the end of each stroke, stop and lift the knife straight up, seems we (humans) tend to roll the edge at the very end of the stroke, and dull what we just achieved, as hawkinsa21 described.

Slooow, light progress till you really get the feel of the edge and the leather.

I'm still in learn mode
 
That was a great description hawkinsa21. Thanks for taking the time.

One other quick question....how often do you find that you need to 'charge' your strop with additional compound? When it starts getting black?

No problems my friend, glad to help out. RE: your comment - Pretty much I guess, I haven't had to do it yet, I can imagine that it will take a long time to get black though! I've had my compound on for a good 6 weeks now, although I only use it about twice a week

I guess, once you have scrapped the stuff off after a few goes its worth rubbing in more compound... I have seen some older barber shop strops that just get done every few months... not really sure TBH, I guess whatever you feel better doing.. if anyone knows of a reason why not to do it, then I'm game for listening :)
 
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