Stropping with flexcut

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basb

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Apr 27, 2010
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I have a flexcut strop and compound on the way. According to some(HeavyHanded for one) the compound works pretty good. I have used Bark River black and green on TKC strop after 1K sandpaper. The raises a few questions. Most of my knives are general purpose/edc and bushcraft/camp knives in VG10, S30V and 1095.

1. Will using flexcut be too fine after 1K?
2. Should i go to 1500 before stropping with flexcut?
3. What, if any, is a good compound/paste as follow up? Tomrek PA-70 or Bark River white perhaps?
 
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basb said:
I have a flexcut strop and compound on the way. According to some(HeavyHanded for one) the compound works pretty good. I have used Bark River black and green on TKC strop after 1K sandpaper. The raises a few questions. Most of knives are general purpose/edc and bushcraft/camp knives in VG10, S30V and 1095.

1. Will using flexcut be too fine after 1K?
2. Should i go to 1500 before stropping with flexcut?
3. What, if any, is a good compound/paste as follow up? Tomrek PA-70 or Bark River white perhaps?
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1 - if only giving it a few light passes, 1k is fine. If you're in it for the long haul, a finer finish on the stones will work better, will give better results over more cycles before the edge rounds.

2 - see 1

3 - you'll have to get into something like .5 micron CrO to see a real difference. Ryobi white or others in the .5 to 1 micron range will be a slight step up, but only slight.

The s30v is at the limit for stropping with AlumOx abrasives. You might get a small sheet of 6 or 1 micron 3M diamond lapping film and use it the same as a strop if the Flexcut doesn't work well enough.
 
I really like the stuff, the edge it leaves is fantastically polished and bites well. I've gotten the best results when using it after fine stones like 6k or higher. even on S30v it polishes for me, albeit it takes a longer time to do so.
 
HeavyHanded said:
1 - if only giving it a few light passes, 1k is fine. If you're in it for the long haul, a finer finish on the stones will work better, will give better results over more cycles before the edge rounds.

2 - see 1

3 - you'll have to get into something like .5 micron CrO to see a real difference. Ryobi white or others in the .5 to 1 micron range will be a slight step up, but only slight.

The s30v is at the limit for stropping with AlumOx abrasives. You might get a small sheet of 6 or 1 micron 3M diamond lapping film and use it the same as a strop if the Flexcut doesn't work well enough.
Click to expand...

I will get some 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper then. Thinking of using bark river black in between the 1k and flexcut, would that be a good intermediate? My current progression is 400 for dull, 600, 1000, black, green.
Being work knives, i don't really require the ultra fine polished edges, flexcut would be ample i'd say then. I like what i get after the green compound after a bit of patience and stropping in front of the tellie.

Mr.Svinarich said:
I really like the stuff, the edge it leaves is fantastically polished and bites well. I've gotten the best results when using it after fine stones like 6k or higher. even on S30v it polishes for me, albeit it takes a longer time to do so.
Click to expand...
Sounds good, looking forward to using it.
 
basb said:
I will get some 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper then. Thinking of using bark river black in between the 1k and flexcut, would that be a good intermediate? My current progression is 400 for dull, 600, 1000, black, green.
Being work knives, i don't really require the ultra fine polished edges, flexcut would be ample i'd say then. I like what i get after the green compound after a bit of patience and stropping in front of the tellie.


Sounds good, looking forward to using it.
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I wouldn't bother with the black if you're going to 2k. Even after 1k it will work well enough. I've really gotten away from multiple step stropping methods for the most part, at least on leather. There's too much potential for edge rounding, especially over a few cycles. The harder your stropping surface, the more the Flexcut can do in terms of edge refinement without rounding the edge. Am a big fan of using a sheet of paper wrapped around a combination stone or similar. Apply compound to the paper, recycle when it loads up, and it will do so rapidly. This method will allow you to go from 1k to Flexcut with less danger of side effects from over stropping. Also allows the compound to restore/repair a lot more wear with less need to go back to wet/dry or stones.
This method also very forgiving of pressure variation when stropping compared to traditional stropping on leather. Edge finish will be somewhat more aggressive as the abrasives will be digging a bit deeper into the steel, but still a very bright finish with good overall character.
 
HeavyHanded said:
I wouldn't bother with the black if you're going to 2k. Even after 1k it will work well enough. I've really gotten away from multiple step stropping methods for the most part, at least on leather. There's too much potential for edge rounding, especially over a few cycles. The harder your stropping surface, the more the Flexcut can do in terms of edge refinement without rounding the edge. Am a big fan of using a sheet of paper wrapped around a combination stone or similar. Apply compound to the paper, recycle when it loads up, and it will do so rapidly. This method will allow you to go from 1k to Flexcut with less danger of side effects from over stropping. Also allows the compound to restore/repair a lot more wear with less need to go back to wet/dry or stones.
This method also very forgiving of pressure variation when stropping compared to traditional stropping on leather. Edge finish will be somewhat more aggressive as the abrasives will be digging a bit deeper into the steel, but still a very bright finish with good overall character.
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So 2k it is then, 1500 feels a bit redundant. Always found the bark river stuff a bit hard to apply anyway, too waxy.
I will try this paper sheet technique on my scandi knives for sure. Does all this count for convex edges too? I just got a F1 lately and thinking of making the ESEE4 convex too, it already has a slight convex after sharping it on leather-backed sandpaper.
 
basb said:
So 2k it is then, 1500 feels a bit redundant. Always found the bark river stuff a bit hard to apply anyway, too waxy.
I will try this paper sheet technique on my scandi knives for sure. Does all this count for convex edges too? I just got a F1 lately and thinking of making the ESEE4 convex too, it already has a slight convex after sharping it on leather-backed sandpaper.
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You'll want to use two or three sheets of paper to induce a bit of compression curvature, but the concept is the same. Adding sheets will more closely emulate leather stropping, so use less pressure when working near the edge. You can also approach convex edges on a hard surface and get away from softer backing entirely. It is a bit more challenging in some respects because you have to create the arc as you go, but you can also control the shape of the arc 100%. Will virtually eliminate any issues with the edge becoming broad over time.
 
HeavyHanded said:
You'll want to use two or three sheets of paper to induce a bit of compression curvature, but the concept is the same. Adding sheets will more closely emulate leather stropping, so use less pressure when working near the edge. You can also approach convex edges on a hard surface and get away from softer backing entirely. It is a bit more challenging in some respects because you have to create the arc as you go, but you can also control the shape of the arc 100%. Will virtually eliminate any issues with the edge becoming broad over time.
Click to expand...

Great, thanks. Very useful information, will try as much as I can in the coming week.
Always find your posts educational and this is no exception.
 
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Heavy, how about flexcoat gold on paper on the washboard?? One sheet or two?

Thanks
 
I have a Brommeland micro strop with one side unused, is there anything to gain by stropping on the bare leather after the flexcut?

Something i just noticed: There is no burr when stropping with flexcut, is this correct? The edge does improves though but I always got one with the green compound.
 
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I've gotten great results with Hand American 1 micron diamond spray.
Its easy to apply, works like a charm, and cleans off easy too.
 
kelbro said:
Heavy, how about flexcoat gold on paper on the washboard?? One sheet or two?

Thanks
Click to expand...

One sheet, just as with the stock compound. You can add sheets and lighten up the amount of force, or you can rub the surface down with a paper towel after applying and it will compress into the paper and refine a bit more that way. On broad convex and some scandi, two sheets is nice, especially if you're going to lean on it a little. One will work, but will leave you with surface patterns from the Washboard teeth.

Flexcut is what I used before I whipped up my own formula, both on the Washboard and prior to that on paper over a stone, and prior to that on a hardened leather strop.
 
basb said:
I have a Brommeland micro strop with one side unused, is there anything to gain by stropping on the bare leather after the flexcut?

Something i just noticed: There is no burr when stropping with flexcut, is this correct? The edge does improves though but I always got one with the green compound.
Click to expand...

I would not expect Flexcut to raise a burr unless used on a very hard surface. It is also pretty good at removing burrs, maybe better than the green. Is possible the green was turning up/polishing an existing burr?
 
TravisH said:
For bushcraft/camp knives, even 1k is too fine.
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That may be the explanation for what I encountered: The straight part of the F1 has been meticulously worked on 1000, black, green, and now flexcut. The belly and tip only a few passes on each step and bit more on the green but not on the flexcut. The straight part is very sharp but barely shaves while the belly pops hairs of my arm with ease.
However, i like a fine edge that easily push-cuts for feathersticks and splitting wood.
 
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HeavyHanded said:
I would not expect Flexcut to raise a burr unless used on a very hard surface. It is also pretty good at removing burrs, maybe better than the green. Is possible the green was turning up/polishing an existing burr?
Click to expand...

Perhaps, i'm not sure but it sounds plausible. It may be the burr left trom the black that gets pushed over to the other side.
 
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